i know this has been argued before but i couldnt find the thread.
im running NGK B5HS plugs in my 1600 sp with 009 and GT40 coil.
is this a good combo?
how does one select a spark plug based on application?
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
Not being privy to the former discussion, the B5HS is the NGK equivalent of Bosch's W8AC. For your combo, it's fine.
A rule of thumb is : Hot Motor = Cold Plug
B5HS is the middle heat range of NGK plugs, 1 being hottest, 10 being coldest.
For instance, some two stroke road bikes I owned used the pretty standard fitment B8ES.
My 851 Ducati used D9EV's, my former Mxer's and chook chasers used B9EV.
I personally find NGK's classification system dead simple.
Regards
Ctefeh
ok so if the 5 is the heat of the plug
what are the letters?
sori this is something i know nothing about...when u say its an "ok" choice do u mean its ok but u could make a better one?
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
Anthiron,
I have the book somewhere that explains it all but simply put....
First letter is thread size, B=14, D=10
There can be other letters after the thread size..e.g
P or PR or R
P=Projected Insulator (into the combustion chamber)
R=Resistor type plug
The numeric indicates heat range
next letter is thread reach or length, E=standard reach, H=short reach
Last one or two indicates electrode material and/or type
e.g V=small diameter electrode (maybe better material, it's been a long time since I owned said bikes), GV=small electrode of gold pallidium material, S=standard electrode
Your motor combo is pretty stock, so therefore a stock plug is a good choice. Using a "V" type (B5HV) is wasted money.
Let's say however you went 10:1 compression, goofy juice, wild cam with sewer sized ports/valves etc I would
start at "9" and work up the heat range.
Let me say categorically I don't build engines, it's just giving you a general idea.
Regards
Ctefeh
[ Edited on 23/2/2006 by ctefeh ]
upgrade to the NGK irridum, i used to have issues with plugs fouling, with the irridum, never had the problem. They cost a bit more ($20 each, but then i only replace them every year (15K to 20K)
I have no sympathy for my car, only the wallet that pays for it!
Go hard or go home!!!!
aren't irridiums ment to last 100,000 km?
i use cheap extended tip plugs of the same heat range in my bus - 20, 000 km and still good. -> note this may cause premature engine death in some instances.
thanks for the info guys👍
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
yes They ar meant to, but i find i like to replace them at 20k, they look fine, but i just do it to be sure. I am only on my second set in 2 years...
I have no sympathy for my car, only the wallet that pays for it!
Go hard or go home!!!!
