something i learned today: the second u hear your wheel bearing rumbling get it seen to
i left mine for 3 weeks due to work commitments and when i pulled it apart the bearing has badly worn the spindle on the stub axle
now i have the impossible task of trying to find a right hand 74-75 Lbug stub axle
if i have no joy does anyone know if i can put older 3 bolt stub axels struts and control arms on?
thanks
Joel
just realised this should probably be in tech talk
oh well
Joel
Aren't they the same as Mk1 Golf?
as if that wasnt enuff i also found the tie rod end was half broken too
ah the joys of driving a 31 year old car, how boring life must be with a modern car
not sure matara never seen under a golf but i know they are very similar
Joel
[ Edited on 18-3-2006 by DUB74L ]
loctite the new one on, bearing lock
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The front inner race (ie. the section of the race in contact with the axle) SHOULD NOT be a tight fit (Loctite or whatever chemical lock) on the front axle. That is how the adjustments are made to the opposing bearings. It must be remembered that the DRIVING member is always the fixed fitting part of an anti friction bearing. The front bearings are tight in the hub and slide fit to the axle, the rear are fixed to the axle and slide fit in the housing.
[ Edited on 20/3/2006 by 1500S ]
I agree but sans new part loctite will stay wet long enuf to get the tension right and still have the car going Loctite like that is a 'get out of a tight spot' solution
1500S wrote:The front inner race (ie. the section of the race in contact with the axle) SHOULD NOT be a tight fit (Loctite or whatever chemical lock) on the front axle. That is how the adjustments are made to the opposing bearings. It must be remembered that the DRIVING member is always the fixed fitting part of an anti friction bearing. The front bearings are tight in the hub and slide fit to the axle, the rear are fixed to the axle and slide fit in the housing.
[ Edited on 20/3/2006 by 1500S ]
This disclaimer does not reflect the thoughts or opinions of either myself, my company, my friends, or my dog: don't quote me on that; don't quote me on anything; this disclaimer is subject to change without notice; text is slightly enlarged to show detail; resemblance to actual persons, living or dead, is unintentional and coincidental; dry clean only; do not bend, fold, or mutilate; anchovies or jalapenos added to this disclaimer upon request; your mileage may vary; no substitutions are allowed; for a limited time only while supplies last; offer void where prohibited; this disclaimer is provided "as is" without any warranties expressed or implied
i'm just gonna try and find another stub axle
i just got a new bearing and put in and tensioned up it seems to be holding together allright
Joel
Maybe it'll get you out of a spot but will catch up with us in the end. Too many people put faith in these chemical locking devices without looking further down the track. Another noted problem on engines is the use of the gasket replacement such as Loctite etc which can cause damage when too much is used or the wrong type is used and it squeezes into oil galleries causing blockages. It also looks rather messy around an engine if not cleaned off. We must remember that there is most likely the same amount inside the joint as outside and we can't clean that lot off!! Some of the "modern day" motor mechanics use it like Vegemite on toast rather than the correct ones on our VW engines.
Only use these methods as a very temporary measure and replace with real metal as soon as you can.
DH
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I agree but sans new part loctite will stay wet long enuf to get the tension right and still have the car going Loctite like that is a 'get out of a tight spot' solution
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Quote:
Originally posted by 1500S
The front inner race (ie. the section of the race in contact with the axle) SHOULD NOT be a tight fit (Loctite or whatever chemical lock) on the front axle. That is how the adjustments are made to the opposing bearings. It must be remembered that the DRIVING member is always the fixed fitting part of an anti friction bearing. The front bearings are tight in the hub and slide fit to the axle, the rear are fixed to the axle and slide fit in the housing.
[ Edited on 22/3/2006 by 1500S ]
Man you should see some of the US guys and their addiction to JB weld! :jesus
1500S wrote:Maybe it'll get you out of a spot but will catch up with us in the end. Too many people put faith in these chemical locking devices without looking further down the track. Another noted problem on engines is the use of the gasket replacement such as Loctite etc which can cause damage when too much is used or the wrong type is used and it squeezes into oil galleries causing blockages. It also looks rather messy around an engine if not cleaned off. We must remember that there is most likely the same amount inside the joint as outside and we can't clean that lot off!! Some of the "modern day" motor mechanics use it like Vegemite on toast rather than the correct ones on our VW engines.
Only use these methods as a very temporary measure and replace with real metal as soon as you can.
DH
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I agree but sans new part loctite will stay wet long enuf to get the tension right and still have the car going Loctite like that is a 'get out of a tight spot' solution
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quote:
Originally posted by 1500S
The front inner race (ie. the section of the race in contact with the axle) SHOULD NOT be a tight fit (Loctite or whatever chemical lock) on the front axle. That is how the adjustments are made to the opposing bearings. It must be remembered that the DRIVING member is always the fixed fitting part of an anti friction bearing. The front bearings are tight in the hub and slide fit to the axle, the rear are fixed to the axle and slide fit in the housing.
[ Edited on 22/3/2006 by 1500S ]
This disclaimer does not reflect the thoughts or opinions of either myself, my company, my friends, or my dog: don't quote me on that; don't quote me on anything; this disclaimer is subject to change without notice; text is slightly enlarged to show detail; resemblance to actual persons, living or dead, is unintentional and coincidental; dry clean only; do not bend, fold, or mutilate; anchovies or jalapenos added to this disclaimer upon request; your mileage may vary; no substitutions are allowed; for a limited time only while supplies last; offer void where prohibited; this disclaimer is provided "as is" without any warranties expressed or implied
Man, I've seen what some of the Yank toolmakers did with some of the jigs for the Chinnook helicopters back in 1971. I'd believe any stories of what some of them do! At least it gave us plenty of overtime at Hawker DeHavillands getting them all back to standard so that local production of parts could commence.
It all comes down to what the individual is happy with. I only look at it for long lasting from a correct engineering view.
DH
[ Edited on 24/3/2006 by 1500S ]
Another fix is to use the *really* thin sleeves available from cbc bearings specifically for use on spun/damaged shafts.
C'mon 1500s, those helichopters are help together with glue arn't they?
This disclaimer does not reflect the thoughts or opinions of either myself, my company, my friends, or my dog: don't quote me on that; don't quote me on anything; this disclaimer is subject to change without notice; text is slightly enlarged to show detail; resemblance to actual persons, living or dead, is unintentional and coincidental; dry clean only; do not bend, fold, or mutilate; anchovies or jalapenos added to this disclaimer upon request; your mileage may vary; no substitutions are allowed; for a limited time only while supplies last; offer void where prohibited; this disclaimer is provided "as is" without any warranties expressed or implied
that was my first though: machine it down and sleeve it but the it cant be mounted in lathe that i worked out anyway
i checked the new bearing this arvo and theres no play in it yet after a week of driving to and from work so fingers crossed it maybe ok
Joel
Koolkarma! Now you have it with the real fix for the worn shaft as long as it can be licked true with a lathe or grinder. Generally there isn't a problem with puting it in a lathe but the time involved in removing from the beam puts many off. The stubbs were originally turned between centres so as long as there is an extended centre in the lathe spindle all will set up fine. Another method of increasing a worn shaft is to knurl the shaft and then machine back to standard. Works better than other methods but ...... well maybe not on a front axle although mechanically it wouldn't weaken it enough to cause failure.
Glue on those B...y helicopters? You better believe what those Yanks get up to! They had centre popped the bores of the jig pin holes to hold the pins in place. A bit too rough for the OZ production of the components!
DH
[ Edited on 24/3/2006 by 1500S ]
mines a super so it has different stubs but i just had a look at some old super stubs i got and there is a center hole at the front and rear of the spindle that i can use to mount it in the lathe
so i should be able to machine it down fine
Joel
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