I HATE that job - but what a difference.
For under $35 (VW Classic @ Rydalmere) i put in a short shift kit, rear coupling and shift busing.
It is all the prep work of stripping the carpet, seats. Trying to keep the grease off everything. Cutting your hand to pieces working through the gear stick hole
Just a bitch of a job..............anyway.............
QUESTION:
How do you get the rod through the bushing with the ring on there.
I have done this job on different cars and never been able to do it and keep the ring.
I always resort to taking it off.
Any problems with this??
It works beautifully??
2nd
Why does it say to put the split/slot to the left hand side??
regrads
barry
Futue te ipsum!!!
ive woundered this too, i have a new one for my 70 bug
its current one is in pieces on the tunnel floor
i was gonna fit the ring to the bushing before it went in its mount but i can see the rod knocking it out of place with the ring on there
they seem to hold in there fine with out the ring though
my Lbug has gone 5 years with no ring and not had a problem
another blessing some vws ive worked on had is the lazy ppl that cut the tunnel open above the pedals for replacing clutch cables this makes getting the rod in and out 100 times easier
Joel
you'll find that people cut the tunnel open to repair the clutch cable tube not to replace the cable
Quote of the week
"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
[IMG]https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate2-18600.png[/IMG]Hi
Lots of people cut the tunnel open to fit a clutch cable, pretty rough.
Ive had success with snap ring by opening it up and having the 2 ends touching each other and then when you get it in place, give it a twist to seat it, the only problem is that if it snaps shut, its likely to fly off somewhere you cant find it.
If you wish to prevent the shift bush from wearing in the future or if your gearshift is stiff, remove the rear most bolt on the gearshift and give the shaft a squirt of oil, motor oil is OK but stuff like STP seems to hang around and last longer.
Steve
very rough, i've also used the two ends touching method. It worked after the 5th attempt.
Patience Grasshopper.
Quote of the week
"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
[IMG]https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate2-18600.png[/IMG]Hi
I suppose for the 2 ends touching method you could grind the faces flat to give yourself more of a chance.
Steve
seems everyone is doing this......must be the time of the year for shifter problems.
any one got pics of procedure?
ill be doing it probobly wednesday.
done the linkage under the back seat now its time for the bush.
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
Hi
You have to disconnect the rear bushing to do the front one, bet you didnt want to hear that.
Steve
ha ha nah i can handle that. its nice and snug but still removable now after a bit of sanding.
im just waiting for a day where i dont have to get it all back together for work that nite.
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
But WHY is the ring needed??
Futue te ipsum!!!
To stop vibration?
Quote of the week
"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
[IMG]https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate2-18600.png[/IMG]Hi
Ive heard of people fitting a grease nipple and filling the shaft with grease in effort to stop vibration.
Steve
i've only done it once and it was a very messy and frustrating job
i spent a while with the wire brush fitting on the angle grinder cleaning the rod up and completly smuthered it in grease to get it back in
anthiron, u will probably find u'll need to remove ur nose piece and possibly ur nudge bar to get the rod out of the car
standard beetles have the round removable panel in the valance for this job
Joel
It is a bitch all right.
No way this time could i get the hole rod out of the car. Just left it in the tunnel, and put the bushing in the support then pushed the rod into it
Well - hopefully i wont need to do it again for a while.
Futue te ipsum!!!
yep ill have to take off my bashplate, bullbar, undo all the wiring for the lights (all goes thru grommets in the nosecone) and then take off the buggy lights then the nose cone will have to come off and then i can get at the plate........on the upside then i can adjust my steeringbox at the same time which also needs doing.
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
"Guide the end into the bushing.
Now just push it back with your pliers the same way you pushed it out. I usually oil the rod to make it slide through easier and then grease the end that will be working in the bushing."
Its the "Now just push it back" that doesnt seem to work 😀
Futue te ipsum!!!
oh yeah i love the way they all reckon that can be done through the shifter hole with pointy nose plyiers
Joel
Hi
I find that circlip pliers work well on the rod and dont scratch it, they need to be this shape ().
Steve
