this would be a good place to post pics of how you have mounted the gearbox when reversing the rear mount to put an EJ engine in your bug.
how do you replace the front mount and how do you connect the shifter stick?
Use a berg style mid mount, shorten the shift rod (I found the move was 46mm), grind down some of the webbing on the nosecone. The reverse switch blanking plug also needed clearancing..
Rich
[ Edited on 22-2-06 by ricola ]
Hi Tom,
the shift rod has to be shortend, too. I used a shift rod shortening kit from Custom & Speed Parts.
http://www.csp-shop.de/cgi-bin/shop2/shop_main.cgi?func=start&wkid=2998625861
It is adjustable if you use it. Just 9 Euros for it! I will take a few pictures on the weekend of my shift rod to show you.
Jörg
[ Edited on 22-2-2006 by subaruboxer ]
thanks for the tip subaruboxer, I just ordered that online now 🙂
the mid mount kit you speak of, could that be replaced with a 2 piece strap kit like this one
because at 239 Euro this gene berg mid mount seems very expensive
I bought my mid mount from
www.vwspeedshop.co.uk for £75 A few German companies have their own versions too if that's easier fro you...
Rich
The promised pictures of my shortend shift rod. You have to weld the piece that comes with the shift rod shortening kit to the rod in the right position. You have to be able to put a 19 mm wrench on it from above, when the rod is back in it´s place. You have to cut out the tunnel to have a chance to do that. With the kit in place you can shorten or lengthen the rod, as you can see in the pictures. It is not a quick or easy mod, but it is worth the effort.
I did mine 9 years ago, if my memory is right you have to use the ring at the of your shift rod.You have to get it off by drilling and weld on to the new part.
Jörg
and one more:
Thank very much for the info guys.
I'm working on the chassis now and have reversed the rear mount and ordered a Berg style mid mount and have the shortening kit subaruboxer advised me on.
Now, how to hook up the trans to the shift rod that connects to the shifter?
I just have to cut 46mm out of the shift rod and weld it back together perfectly straight?
Can I remove the shift rod through the front of the chassis, cut and weld and put it back just like that or is it more difficult then that?
The amount everything moves forwards depends on your rear cradle dimensions, you should be able to work it out easily enough. Mine worked out as 46mm wiht the heavy duty mount. Also, where you weld in the shortening kit will depend on its geometry too, I would set everything so that you have 46mm with at least half the length of the threaded part inside the shift rod.
To me it looks like you remove the shift rod , cut, weld in the adjuster threaded section and then put it back in without the adjustable part as that probably won't fit through your tunnel bushing..
Rich
that probably won't fit through your tunnel bushing..
I was told the same thing in the local bugshop, they said anything slightly wider then the stock rod won't fit through the bushing.
As you are at repositioning your trans, why not move it up at the same time. Take a look here:
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=38816
I did it with mine now, and have the same ground clearence as I had with the shortened sump, but with the stock sump now. Here a picture of it with my new header and with the shortened sump still in place. I will post more of it, when it is al done. I think it is a great improvement, stock oil capacity and no need for a shortened sump, anymore!
[ Edited on 21-4-2006 by subaruboxer ]
subaruboxer wrote:As you are at repositioning your trans, why not move it up at the same time. Take a look here:
I was hoping to be able to do that but with the quad cam heads there isn't enough clearance to the body to do it..
Rich
mine is a quad cam as wel but haven't checked the clearance yet, either way I'm leaving the height as it is. Lower gravity point andenough clearance with the shortened sump.
Sorry, forgot that both of you are using turbo engines.
It is more a mod for SOHC engines. The engine is installed now pretty much like it is in the Subaru. Here is another picture, you can see that the sump is way shorter than the exhaust. And you can see that the engine is installed at an angle.
that exhaust manifold looks nice and shiny, is that aftermarket?
Yes it is an OBX racing header for the impreza.
Polished stainless steel. I have to custom fit it.
[ Edited on 16-4-2006 by subaruboxer ]
call me stupid but I'm still confused about this.
nr. 1 in my pic is the part that belongs to the transmission itself. It is my understanding nothing has to be cut or welded on this part, correct?
nr. 2 is the shift rod, I have to cut of 46mm at the end, correct?
nr. 3 is either part of the original shift rod that's welded to the shortening kit or the shorteing kit itself (I think my kit looks a bit different from subaruboxer's.
this is my shortening kit, I think part nr. 4 looks different then subaruboxer's.
Hello Tom,
it is not that easy, as the kit comes without instructions.
You have the same kit that I used. Your number four has to be pushed into the shift rod and welded. Rember to position it right, you have to get at it from above when the rod is back in the tunnel!
The amount you cut off depends on the amount you are moving the trans forward. But you have some room for error with the adjustable piece that you put in.
Nr.3 is of the original shift rod you have to cut it off and weld it to the kit. But you have to drill a 6,5 mm hole into the piece with the thread where the groove is. Then you put nr. 3 on and weld it. You can use the drill to position the two pieces right, just stick it in there.
This is the piece you have to cut off of the original shift rod and weld to the kit.
so i have to cut off the end part of the original shift rod and weld the shortening kit in between like in this pic?
You have to cut the ring off of the shift rod and push it over the 6,5 mm holes that you have to drill into the shortening kit, they have to match!
[ Edited on 19-4-2006 by subaruboxer ]
I see, finally understand it now. Thank you very much for helping out subaruboxer.
Thought about the amount you have to shorten the shift rod if you moved the trans 46 mm forward. I think you have to shorten it a bit more, because the piece that you weld to the shift rod will lengthen it a bit, or am I wrong???
If I am right you might end up with the rod to long.But you will notice it to late, when you have it back in the tunnel! Please check that, before you weld it!!
[ Edited on 21-4-2006 by subaruboxer ]
I'll check it and double check it.
New problem: my chassis is an automatic but was (mayby partiallyà converted to mount a regular trans.
The guy I got it from doesn't know if the shift rod is from an automatic or a manual and I asked about this is the local shop and they knew both have the same shift rods only different lenghts but they didn't know which one was which length.
I guess I'll have to mount the shifter I have in the car right now on the chassis to properly measure things.
Mine was an automatic, too. I think I used the automatic shift rod, it is already 1 cm shorter than the shifter rod.
But if you had a regular trans in it, it has to be the rod of the shifter trans, because the automatic is 1 cm to short.
I'm pretty shure my shiftrod is from an automatic.
Mounted the trans in the original position and when I put the shifter in the most forward position (what should be 1ste and 4th gear) it's in neutral (there's the 1cm difference)
are both the shortening kit and the shifter rod made from aluminium or is the shortening kit stainless steel (this will be helpfull info for welding the parts together)?
I don´t think that mine is stainless steel, and not for sure not aluminium .Just steel i´d say! Test it with a magnet, both are not magnetic.
Mine's all done now (thanks to lots of tips from you guys)
Now it's on with the rest of the build.
