Building a mild 1916. engle 120 cam, ported heads, dual 36 dells, counter weight crank, balanced con rods, balanced flywheel but not lightened. is there anything that i should look for that isn't normal when building a stock engine? im using an old case thats been machined, flycut around where the barrels go in, ground out where the crank goes in and clearanced for the rods, even though i don't need it. i wanna get an idea of anything thats different to normal so i can be ready for it. any help would be appreciated. cheers
trunk monkey, because sometime getting your car back just isn't enough
BizarreModeratorThe artist formerly known as blue74l
all the case stuff has been done, ill do the ccs and the deck hight when i put them together. i was meaning stuff like, different size rods or anything. i got told that old rover V8 rods can be used and make the engine alot smoother cause they are slightly longer but then you gotta maching the crank to fit. any tricks that make the engine last longer or run smoother or quicker. just the little things i might have over looked??
trunk monkey, because sometime getting your car back just isn't enough
BizarreModeratorThe artist formerly known as blue74l
i got the heads off a guy who said they had 1200 dollars of work done to them, i think by vforce cause it was one of their customers. il be going to a set of 044s once i get the money anyway. i have just heard some things about 1916s, that like they are really unreliable unless you get brand new cases and stuff like that. are they just the same as a stock engine, by theory, but bigger??
trunk monkey, because sometime getting your car back just isn't enough
BizarreModeratorThe artist formerly known as blue74l
It is cam, heads, exhaust and carbs that really do it.
Reliability is in checking things are bolted but to the right torque, rings installed properly, rocker set correctly and stuff like that.
Setting end play is a priority.
There is some that say the best case is a 8mm stud case with case savers.
I would "guess" that a 10mm studded case and no case savers might be troubel with a 1916 that had hi CR and built poorly
Pretty sure i know the heads you are talking about
i think the main restriction is gonna be the heads and carbies. if i get the carbies choked out abit and stuff should be better. the cam i think would be a problem :P its nice and big for a street car. good thing with heads is they aren't hard to change 🙂 i just want it to be reliable but at the same time im young so i want it to be quick. need to blast commonwhores easily, i hope
trunk monkey, because sometime getting your car back just isn't enough
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
bajaben wrote:i have just heard some things about 1916s, that like they are really unreliable unless you get brand new cases and stuff like that. are they just the same as a stock engine, by theory, but bigger??
Well Stan Pobjoy has built close to 2000 1916cc engines, using old cases, new cases, and aftermarket cases. They have warranties and are used for motor racing,street,strip.........1916's have more than proven themselves as reliable combo (well pobjoy ones have). You won't have any problems with the combination of 69mm stroke and 94mm bore..................where reliability problems may occur is with the quality of the parts used and the ability of the person building it.
People who think they are unreliable CAN'T build them.
As for Heads, the base Pobjoy 1916 runs standard 040 heads (standard valve size and unported), and they run High 15's in the 1/4 mile.
so with the heads i got, even if they are a little better than stock i should be looking into the 15s? i like that. so a set of 044s would help when i get the money. is the engle 120 cam gonna be a little to wild for the street or will it be fine? and should i lighten the flywheel or isn't it really gonna be worth it for a daily driver?
trunk monkey, because sometime getting your car back just isn't enough
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
Engle 120 will be fine for the street............ far more aggressive cams out there on the street, and I would leave the flywheel standard (eight dowel the crank and flywheel) for a daily driver.
Alright sweet as. the stock vw clutch will hold it together won't it? or should i get a kombi clutch? or go a stage one kennedy one? thanks for all the help 🙂
trunk monkey, because sometime getting your car back just isn't enough
i have got one of the better ones. is there anyone with figures of an engine similar to this one so i can have a general ball park figure of times and power it should have.
trunk monkey, because sometime getting your car back just isn't enough
bajaben wrote:i have got one of the better ones. is there anyone with figures of an engine similar to this one so i can have a general ball park figure of times and power it should have.
Hmmmm... 85hp at the wheels and a bit quicker to 100 than most P-plated VNs
And the dude who machined your case shoulda already done the deck height etc etc
[ Edited on 9-5-2006 by VWCOOL ]
Pay your debts, CxxT
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
Re clutch: As long as the flywheel has been machined to increase the pressure of the stock clutch it will hold fine.If you are running larger dia wheels it may be worth while fitting a stage one kennedy(but not mandatary!)
sweet. so probably should be crazy off the line then. i got a 1776 stock internals lightened flywheel and single weber and it launches like crazy off the line. cheers for the help. ill put picks up when the build starts. oh and how fast would a vn be to 100?? like 8 sec?
trunk monkey, because sometime getting your car back just isn't enough
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
im not a hoon i just like the look on commonwhore drivers faces when they get beaten by a beetle. its worth it. i know alot of people in vl non turbo autos who give me shit about it being a beelte so i wanna beat them by as much as possible then tell them its just a beetle :P
trunk monkey, because sometime getting your car back just isn't enough
The engine in my race car is a Pobjoy 1916cc 25000klm Warrenty Street Streriods engine. I have never had any problems with my engine. It gets driven on the road in historics and it won me a state hillclimb championship and I have never had a problem. Just asked Greg Ward. He has driven his 1916 all around Australia, raced it and driven home and he also never had a problem. I hope that helps.
White Knuckle Racing Team [/i] "Drive it like dirt"
im running stock dia wheels but they are a bit wider than normal. about 225 from memory if not a little wider. maybe 255? i dunno about 8 inchs anyway. how do you machine the flywheel to increase clutch pressure? i think lightening it with the 120 and being a road car might make it a bit to jumpy.
trunk monkey, because sometime getting your car back just isn't enough
Its an off the shelf Pobjoy Street Steriods with PJ counter weighted crank, 044 heads (35mm ex and 40mm in), PJ steriods cam, 44 IDF webbers and standard weight flywheel. Its very competetive and reliable for what I use it for. The best person to talk to about specs on PJ engines is Stan himself. Give him a call.
White Knuckle Racing Team [/i] "Drive it like dirt"
good news 🙂 heads and case are at the engineers getting opened up to fit in the 94s 🙂 the combustion chambers on the heads have already been done so don't need to be done. the case halves are being machined to fit together better and the place for the crank bearings has already been machined so its all in the works. pics will be up when i get them back. i have been quoted 350 for all the work to be done. so i think thats reasonable
trunk monkey, because sometime getting your car back just isn't enough
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
