Alan-been keeping up with your oil cooler fitment-I would have thought, that with the way you have set your engine up,it should never get hot.I can't remember(lost way back in the rebuild) which fan you used and what size crank pulley?Did you use the original Type4 under cylinder tinware?I originally used the Type4 tinware,and when I was running in the cam,it seemed to be running way too hot(no guage-gut feeling)and when I revved it,there was no air coming thru or around the barrels.I found on the shoptalk forum they use modified Type1 tins.So I changed them and it ran much cooler and now there is plenty of air coming thru the barrels.Won't know the true answers until I drive it and check the guages.I noticed you had your crank pulley off and wondered why-then thought your rear panel was probably the same as mine.I got sick of taking the pulley off each time I removed the rear panel-so I modified it to resemble an original-can now leave the pulley in place each time.
Hey Gary, surely your beetle is not too far from being ready??!!
I used fibreglass cylinder head covers and crank pulley that came as part of a kit, likewise for the breast plate (which you are right - does require the pulley to come off). But it had to come off anyway to replace the crank pulley seal as it was spraying a bit of oil around the engine bay!
Tonight I hand pumped the oil cooler and lines with oil, ran out of time again but hopefully tomorrow will see carbs go back on along with linkage, fill it with oil and re-fire it again!
G,day Alan-no still a way to go.Got to pull motor and trans to get the auto overhauled and beefed up.I was refering to the metal air deflectors that go under the cylinders.When RAT did his cooling system tests,it revealed that the original deflectors with upright cooling,ran higher cylinder head and oil temp.Keen to see what happens once it's going with oil temps.I bought a sandwich plate to go under the filter with a thermostat inside,to run an external cooler.Will plumb it all up B4 I pull the motor.I am also going to use a Type1 oil cooler on the auto-will fit it against the drivers side torsion bar tube somewhere.
Cheers Gary - sorry for the misunderstanding. Yep I have used the stock type IV deflector plates under the cylinder heads - I hadn't heard about the high temps before using them with upright cooling - I'll keep it mind in case I need to change them down the track.
Just a quick pic of the beetle at Dubs by the Pub show - managed to pick up a couple of awards which is always a bonus (but never the intention of the resto). More satisfaction comes from the compliments of fellow dubbers, and joe-blow at servos/shops etc.
Thanks mate, I was very stoked to pick up my second "best paint" award at a show - very satisfying considering I did it from start to finish in my old man's garage! The panels are not the straightest, but obviously didn't turn out too bad! On an unrelated not, keep your eyes out for a feature in Fast Fours mid year (will update once I know which month) - photo shoot was a few weeks ago. 😊
Certainly did - on the run up to the sunshine coast from brissy it was stable at 190-200F max - that was taking it easy in the cruise. On the way home I could sit on 100-110km/h and it maintained 210F......previously it was kreeping up to 240F (which is when I would pull over and let it cool down).
I think it may cool further with timing adjustments, hopefully I'll get it dyno tuned at some stage in the future.
Looky what arrived from the USA the other day....66deluxe (Damien) and I brought in a pair of DTM type IV cooling kits for our type IV engines. Bit exy but the workmanship and instructions (including DVD) are one of the highest of any aftermarket part I have bought.
Will update as the new system is trial fitted and then painted and fitted up permanently.
Cheers
Alan
PS Thanks to nturbo for sending the pedals and seat rails up for the other project bug - your time is much appreciated.
keep the info coming on the mag and what issue as i for one will buy it just to show th eboys at work what a good dub looks like and almost what level mine will turn out
Congrats on your latest purchase--did you need your Bank Manager to underwrite the purchase price?? Is there any info with it about the under cylinder cooling tins??.
G'day Gary - thanks again for the seat rails and pedals (remember to let me know how much freight was!).
Yep the DTM wasn't cheap to land unfortunately, but time will tell if the purchase was worthwhile. No info re. the cooling tins under the cylinders was included (unless I missed that part!). Will let you know if I find anything once the installation begins (want to try and finish and sell the type I 1916 first to free up some funds!).
Das, you gotta use type 1 under cylinder tin (preferably original as it has a better fit), due to the airflow now coming from above instead of airflow from the side and then down, and it lowers running temprature also.
This is my Volkswagen, there are many like it, but this one is mine. Without me my Volkswagen is useless, without my Volkswagen, I am useless.
61 Karmann Ghia 2110cc type1 w Los Panchito's
66 Deluxe Beetle 2270 type 4
10 Subaru WRX Impreza
I will double check when I pull the engine but I am 99% sure that is what Leon installed (type I cooling tins) when he assembled the long block (that is one part of the project I didn't do). 🙂
Just a quick update - pulled the upright kit off the engine (in readiness to sell it). Trial fitted the DTM shroud tonight - need to sort out the sealing tin...then paint the shroud etc before its all bolted back together.
Tell me about it-at least you have driven yours.I am putting mine back together at last.I put the trans and motor back in the other night-a bit of a drama,but had everything in position,and was tightening the bolts on the bell housing that hold my custom engine mounts-and stripped out one of the threads in the aluminium-so had to remove all the brackets and mounts so I could get in to fit a helicoil-3 hours gone missing.Then went to fit the rear Kafer brace I made-more trouble-I made it with an ordinary 12 volt starter bolted in position,now with the Auto starter the solenoid is slightly different,the brace just touches the solenoid.So will have to modify that and I have already had it coated.
