Paint, seal, powdercoat?

liam66 Officially Full-On Dubber

260 posts · joined Oct 2005 · 27 May 2006, 9:14 am

#493200

I've just finished the floor for my swb buggy.
Replaced all 4 section with heavy checkerplate.
Now it's time to paint the floor before it rusts- any recomendations? I'm thinking powdercoat but that'll involve finishing any barwork/ welding first (and scraping the seam sealer off). I could two pack the whole thing which would look good but a bit off a hassle.
The ( bodgy) alternative would be to just lift the body off and spray pack it then jack it up, spray pack underneath then slop some of that rubbery deadener goop under it.

[ Edited on 26-5-2006 by liam66 ]

dubbill Officially Full-On Dubber

336 posts · joined Jul 2005 · 27 May 2006, 10:02 pm

#493475

THUMP
i also have a redone chassis and am very interested, powder coat, 2pac, acrylic, rust proof professional, por 15, cold gal, red oxide, fish oil, penetrate this car is being made to use on beach 3x per week so it will see a lot of salt n sand

shaihulud Custom Title Time!

1,448 posts · joined Nov 2005 · 27 May 2006, 11:13 pm

#493508

When I had the pan of my buggy made for me it was fully stripped and delivered in undercoat after being sand blasted. I hand painted it in Killrust gloss black. I applied two slopped on, thick, gooey coats. It looked OK for years and never looked like it would rust.

I've had the pan for my Manx SR powder coated in gloss black. So far it's withstood my rough handed construction technique.

I'll need some time to work out which is best.

I think that a well prepared and finished Killrust, POR15, etc., paint job will do and you don't need to rush your bar work before you are ready.

dubbill Officially Full-On Dubber

336 posts · joined Jul 2005 · 28 May 2006, 12:02 am

#493526

hey liam have a look in paint n body section i started a thread on this subject and judging by the response ill probably follow mickH's solution ie barmastic and lanotec ah well have a look 4 yourself at the thread hope it helps

Dasdubber DAS Resto Haus

5,746 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 28 May 2006, 9:54 pm

#493960

I would advise against powdercoating due to the chance of cracking, and problems if you have to modify the chassis in any way with welding etc - you will not be able to match the finish.

Two pack looks good but you're right - bit of a hassle to apply.

I would suggest considering either por15 or rust bullet. I used por15 on my beetle pan but prep work is critical and can be time consuming. I used Rust Bullet on my second pan resto (See pic) and have been very impressed. Althought it doesn't self level quite as well as por15 it is very easy to apply, prep isn't as critical and it is very durable. The silver finish looks pretty swish too!

Andy from www.volksfolks.biz can supply it = well worth enquiring about.

www.dasrestoparts.com.au

pete wood 23 Windows of Awesome

6,828 posts · joined Jan 2004 · 29 May 2006, 12:26 pm

#494148

I'd only use killrust if you have limited funds. I've found that it tends to peel...and that was after decent prep too.

"stoopid is stronger than axles"
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/

malcolm Insano Dub Head

812 posts · joined Nov 2004 · 29 May 2006, 1:16 pm

#494169

Friends and my self have tried 2paks and powder coating in hot rods, drag cars each have their merets powder coating is hard wearing but if it does crack you could get rust developing under the surface a 56 chev I was doing the owner had it gal coated .Another thing is do the rust treatments and colour then spray it in a clear stone guard dfferent spray nozzles will give different finishes but it will have better resistance to peppering under the car .

MickH Hairy Gutted Sloth

3,389 posts · joined Sep 2003 · 29 May 2006, 1:19 pm

#494172

Barmastic before colour coat.

[ Edited on 29-5-06 by Mick H ]

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