This probably sounds like a stupid question to some, but I can't figure out how to take off the steering wheel on my'73 bay window. Can some-one point me in the right direction.
Cheers,
obegil
[ Edited on 12-6-2006 by obegil ]
😁 Pry off your horn button , now see that big nut
take it off ,wheel comes off.dont forget to unplug
horn wire 🤓
I believe they are the similar to a Beetle...
so, take the horn button off...
just a clip is holding it... screwdriver under the lip..
Undo the nut holding the steering wheel on...
I have never had any trouble taking the steering wheel
off all the VWs I've owned...
but a Mechanic told Me to hit the shaft with a hammer
while pulling the wheel upwards....
I think that will need at least two people to do that...:P
Be careful, so You don't damage the end of the thread..
Maybe loosen the nut, but leave it on....
then hit the end of the shaft, to jar the wheel loose...
then take the nut off... Maybe a spray of WD40 first...
The proper way would be to hold a solid brass or copper punch
on the thread and hit it with a hammer...
but I don't own a brass punch...
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
Ummm i'm pretty sure you shouldn't hit them with a hammer, cause i've heard of this damaging the column... i think its only with the collapsable columns though..
Always leave the bolt on by a few threads, that way you wont bash the wheel off your face when it come off with a bang!
Fireball xl5 wrote:Always leave the bolt on by a few threads, that way you wont bash the wheel off your face when it come off with a bang!
I second that, never happened to me but my mate who is a mechanic says it happens to apprentices all the time and is a good laugh.
This is my Volkswagen, there are many like it, but this one is mine. Without me my Volkswagen is useless, without my Volkswagen, I am useless.
61 Karmann Ghia 2110cc type1 w Los Panchito's
66 Deluxe Beetle 2270 type 4
10 Subaru WRX Impreza
Yep, watched a young chap try and change his wheel in his mini, took nut off, tuggeed, smacked with hammer, tugged, tugged harder and BANG!
Shouldnt laugh.... but he was the new mechanic...
Thanks for all the advise guys..... It still won't come off, so I'll give it a spray with some WD40 and leave it for a day or two, then i'll get a mate to hold and lift while I tape the centre shaft.
Well,
I'm just glad that I've always had the nut on the last few turns when I have tried....
Never thought about being hit in the face with it....
The steering wheel is another place to use anti seize or
Lithium based Moly grease...
so, then You can take off the steering wheel anytime You want...
a bit of Vaseline or grease on the copper ring on the back of the steering wheel will help keep it lubricated too...
If You have a Rubber Mallet, try hitting behind the wheel
first one side then the other....
that May help...
You can't hurt the collapsable steering column as it only collapses from force from the steering box back to the dash.... [beetles]
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
hmm, im must be luky, mine just came off with s bit of a shake, and it slid off. Talking bug though..
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
obegil, I have a brass drift punch for this job if you need it. I'm in Bris on the southside. Let me know.
al356037@bigpond.net.au
Cheers,
Mick.
A POSSE AD ESSE.
I live in my own little world, but it's okay, they know me here.
Thats what I was thinking about....
a Brass drift....
I thought thats what they were called... wasn't sure...
always wanted one.....
as You can bash things with-out damage... [well mostly]
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
Used it on the axle bolts when I rode/restored motorbikes. Mines an antique, got it from my dad, he acquired it when he was an RAAF aircraft mechanic 40 years ago. Almost impossible to find now, but a scrap metal yard may be able to dig up something.
A POSSE AD ESSE.
I live in my own little world, but it's okay, they know me here.
obegil,
Don't forget , before you start, to mark the position of steering wheel so it goes back on the splines in the same place. Either a scratch with a screw driver or a dint with a centre punch on shaft and nearest accessable part of wheel.
You need an opposing force to the hammer blow to make it work. Position yourself so that your knees or thighs are under the wheel, exerting force towards you then hit with impact insertion device (hammer). Make sure top of nut is FLUSH with top of shaft or thread damage will occur, it also allows for maximum target size & impact area.
In a kombi you may need to put blocks on the floor to rest your feet on or something on seat to raise your height to give you more purchase.
Definately re-install with a bit of anti seize on shaft splines.
Matt.
[ Edited on 14-6-2006 by Matt Ryan ]
The easy way...
Undo the nut almost all the way. Then lean forward and hug the wheel with both arms under it like you're pretending you're a forklift. hold it close and tight, then rock from side to side while you pull back as hard as you can. The wheel will go "bang" as the spline lets go and the wheel hits the nut.
........................... or come over and use my "puller",
northside of Brisbane
Grahame
visit my club site at
www.vwdcqinc.org.auBrass Drift.... Great Mate....
Thats what I was thinking about....
>a Brass drift....
I thought thats what they were called... wasn't sure...
always wanted one.....
as You can bash things with-out damage... [well mostly]<
Brass isn't a good metal to use as a drift, especially around an engine where small pieses of brass can chip away and get into the insides. It is also much harder than many think and can actually damage parts made of soft steel etc. A better option and much safer is a piece of copper which is much softer and doesn't chip. It will work harden with use but is easilly annealed by heating to red heat.
DH
Yeah, only ever used it on bike axle shafts and BIG bolts, but is is excellent for that type of job. Copper would be far too soft for anything sizeable or well stuck.
A POSSE AD ESSE.
I live in my own little world, but it's okay, they know me here.
