helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body
7,386 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
It is still f'n freezin' and crappy up front where there is not even any engine heat to warm a firewall. Fleur has to wear motorbike gloves to drive to work. 😂
heater setup for an EJ motor? tap installed and all good.
pete wood 23 Windows of Awesome
6,828 posts · joined Jan 2004 ·
haven't you got a heater in ya bus Peter?
put a heater in and come and be a sook with me. we'll be warm and cosy and Mick can be a hero all on his own.😏
put a heater in and come and be a sook with me. we'll be warm and cosy and Mick can be a hero all on his own.😏
"stoopid is stronger than axles"
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/
sinecure Want another... :(
1,031 posts · joined Mar 2006 ·
You cound use a solenoid to avoid a cable. Central locking type unit maybe?
A POSSE AD ESSE.
I live in my own little world, but it's okay, they know me here.
I live in my own little world, but it's okay, they know me here.
subimanx Casual Dubber
47 posts · joined Jul 2005 ·
Watch him Helbus...I've heard about people like him....:jesuspete wood wrote:haven't you got a heater in ya bus Peter?
put a heater in and come and be a sook with me. we'll be warm and cosy and Mick can be a hero all on his own.😏
pete wood 23 Windows of Awesome
6,828 posts · joined Jan 2004 ·
what have you heard?
BTW, Sinecure, good idea, I'll have to think about that one.
BTW, Sinecure, good idea, I'll have to think about that one.
"stoopid is stronger than axles"
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/
MickH Hairy Gutted Sloth
3,389 posts · joined Sep 2003 ·
check your U2U
tssnq.com.au
pete wood 23 Windows of Awesome
6,828 posts · joined Jan 2004 ·
Well, 6 hours of cold highway next week made me think hard and I have started on the heater again. As you can see, the electricals are done and the unit in place.
If you want to see more, click on this address...
http://www.geocities.com/peterwood7310/buggyproject/buggyproject14.html
...and scroll down to the 26th of July.
If you want to see more, click on this address...
http://www.geocities.com/peterwood7310/buggyproject/buggyproject14.html
...and scroll down to the 26th of July.
"stoopid is stronger than axles"
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/
pete wood 23 Windows of Awesome
6,828 posts · joined Jan 2004 ·
Ok, everything is all hooked up, but I'm having dramas with the refilling. I've filled it up til it overflows and started it and run it up to operating temp twice now, but I'm having the same problem over and over.
When I turn it off, There's no pressure in the radiator. I can take the cap off when it's hot and there is no pressure at all. I have a secondary bleedpoint at the top of the upper heater hose. I know there is water there coz it came out, but the problem remains.
What to do next?
Any ideas?
p.s. 1 week to valla. 🙁
[ Edited on 28-7-06 by pete wood ]
When I turn it off, There's no pressure in the radiator. I can take the cap off when it's hot and there is no pressure at all. I have a secondary bleedpoint at the top of the upper heater hose. I know there is water there coz it came out, but the problem remains.
What to do next?
Any ideas?
p.s. 1 week to valla. 🙁
[ Edited on 28-7-06 by pete wood ]
"stoopid is stronger than axles"
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/
koolkarmakombi enkarmarising
2,078 posts · joined Jun 2003 ·
try pressure testing is. pump it up and listen real careful and look for leaks. Check the engine breather, its either coming out somewhere or you have a HUGE airlock.......
This disclaimer does not reflect the thoughts or opinions of either myself, my company, my friends, or my dog: don't quote me on that; don't quote me on anything; this disclaimer is subject to change without notice; text is slightly enlarged to show detail; resemblance to actual persons, living or dead, is unintentional and coincidental; dry clean only; do not bend, fold, or mutilate; anchovies or jalapenos added to this disclaimer upon request; your mileage may vary; no substitutions are allowed; for a limited time only while supplies last; offer void where prohibited; this disclaimer is provided "as is" without any warranties expressed or implied
pete wood 23 Windows of Awesome
6,828 posts · joined Jan 2004 ·
all sorted. just topped it and ran it up to temp then let it cool a few times. the motor drew in the extra water through the overflow bottle. 👍
Heater wasn't working until I unkinked a hose but now it's great.
One toasty warm buggy coming right up!...to Valla!:bounce
[ Edited on 28-7-06 by pete wood ]
Heater wasn't working until I unkinked a hose but now it's great.
One toasty warm buggy coming right up!...to Valla!:bounce
[ Edited on 28-7-06 by pete wood ]
"stoopid is stronger than axles"
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/
MickH Hairy Gutted Sloth
3,389 posts · joined Sep 2003 ·
I still reckon you're a sook.....from the book of buggydom "Let there be frozen body parts":P:P:P:jesuspete wood wrote:Heater wasn't working until I unkinked a hose but now it's great.
One toasty warm buggy coming right up!...to Valla!:bounce
[ Edited on 28-7-06 by pete wood ]
tssnq.com.au
pete wood 23 Windows of Awesome
6,828 posts · joined Jan 2004 ·
Just a quick note about driving the car with the heater now installed. The difference is stunning. If anything the heater works too well. It provides heat from about 50deg (water temp) and I only really need to use the lowest fan setting. I only have it turned on for 10-15 minutes with the side curtains zipped up otherwise the car becomes stuffy. It seems that just having the unit inside the car radiates enough heat to take the edge off the cold to begin with, then you just turn it on and off as you need it. I'd highly recommend one to anyone with a subie (or similar) in their buggy or kombi. Yes, helbus that means you. 👍
The only real problem we had with it was in the rain on the way to Valla. The heat actually caused the car to fog up. But then buggies have that issues anyway, the heater just accentuated the problem. I'm hoping the air con might fix that when it goes in. 😉
And Mick, I might be a sook, but at least I'm sook that can feel his fingers and ears again.👍
I'll post some final pics of my pipe installation a bit later on.
The only real problem we had with it was in the rain on the way to Valla. The heat actually caused the car to fog up. But then buggies have that issues anyway, the heater just accentuated the problem. I'm hoping the air con might fix that when it goes in. 😉
And Mick, I might be a sook, but at least I'm sook that can feel his fingers and ears again.👍
I'll post some final pics of my pipe installation a bit later on.
"stoopid is stronger than axles"
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/
pete wood 23 Windows of Awesome
6,828 posts · joined Jan 2004 ·
well the whole setup is now finalised. after looking around for three way taps and doing some thinking, I made the decision that this setup (posted earlier) was going to be the winner.
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"stoopid is stronger than axles"
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/
pete wood 23 Windows of Awesome
6,828 posts · joined Jan 2004 ·
So off I went to my local enzed shop and picked up the fittings in question. The cross over pipe (above left black thick line from red to blue lines) is inline just after the motor.
The heater tap is then straight after the cross over on the hot side of the two pipes. It resides in the engine bay.
There are a few reasons I decided to go with this switching setup and the location. First up, I chose this sort of tap because you can get them anywhere, where as going with a specific car heater tap means they will go out of production at some stage. The WB holden tap a few people suggested is already NOS stock, so it didn't seem like a very good idea to me.
Secondly, I chose to put the tap in the engine bay coz it's easier to contain and I already had a neat mounting point for it. It's really a summer winter switch now, but that's ok, coz I can reach under the guard and switch it on very easily. Also, being an industrial unit, I'm confident I can cover it in mud and it will still work fine, more than I can say for a lot of plastic car components.
The heater tap is then straight after the cross over on the hot side of the two pipes. It resides in the engine bay.
There are a few reasons I decided to go with this switching setup and the location. First up, I chose this sort of tap because you can get them anywhere, where as going with a specific car heater tap means they will go out of production at some stage. The WB holden tap a few people suggested is already NOS stock, so it didn't seem like a very good idea to me.
Secondly, I chose to put the tap in the engine bay coz it's easier to contain and I already had a neat mounting point for it. It's really a summer winter switch now, but that's ok, coz I can reach under the guard and switch it on very easily. Also, being an industrial unit, I'm confident I can cover it in mud and it will still work fine, more than I can say for a lot of plastic car components.
"stoopid is stronger than axles"
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/
1303Steve Scirocco Rare
8,650 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
Hi
That looks interesting, I will crossing this path soon. I will be sending my heated air down my heater channels, this is a good idea on Beetle & type 3s as it will prevent moisture building up in the heater channels and causing rust.
I just bought a condenser and evaporater for my air con setup for $180, so with air con lines etc I expect to pay about another 500 or so, so Im a sook as well, albeit a cool one.
Steve
That looks interesting, I will crossing this path soon. I will be sending my heated air down my heater channels, this is a good idea on Beetle & type 3s as it will prevent moisture building up in the heater channels and causing rust.
I just bought a condenser and evaporater for my air con setup for $180, so with air con lines etc I expect to pay about another 500 or so, so Im a sook as well, albeit a cool one.
Steve
ricola Wolfsburg Wizard
437 posts · joined Feb 2003 ·
I ducted hot air down the heater channels in the ghia and it didn't work that well, I used a type 2 blower motor/fan.
Blowing hot air down the channels will make it worse from a corrosion point of view, it is the temperature cycling which causes condensation to collect and rust them from the inside out..
I'll be fitting a matrix up front this time and hooking it up to the intake of the standard 1303 blower motor..
Rich
Blowing hot air down the channels will make it worse from a corrosion point of view, it is the temperature cycling which causes condensation to collect and rust them from the inside out..
I'll be fitting a matrix up front this time and hooking it up to the intake of the standard 1303 blower motor..
Rich
1303Steve wrote:Hi
That looks interesting, I will crossing this path soon. I will be sending my heated air down my heater channels, this is a good idea on Beetle & type 3s as it will prevent moisture building up in the heater channels and causing rust.
I just bought a condenser and evaporater for my air con setup for $180, so with air con lines etc I expect to pay about another 500 or so, so Im a sook as well, albeit a cool one.
Steve
1303Steve Scirocco Rare
8,650 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
Hi Rich
Im not sure about that. On my yellow 1302 I religiously used my heaters whenever it was wet or after washing the car to dry the heater channels out and my 1302 was rust free apart from a small amount around the rear window and behind one rear mudguard where the beading fits.
Steve
Im not sure about that. On my yellow 1302 I religiously used my heaters whenever it was wet or after washing the car to dry the heater channels out and my 1302 was rust free apart from a small amount around the rear window and behind one rear mudguard where the beading fits.
Steve