OK, see my previous thread about kombi hesitation problem.
Just had the carbs properly balanced/tuned and i still have a flat spot/ hesitation so it seems there's a problem with the carbs.
My Right hand throttle shaft is a little lose but people seem to agree this is probably not the cause of the problem... phoning around shows rebuilding will be $500-$700 for the set... yikes!
Is it worth getting this done? Asking the rebuilders it doesnt seem like they do much for their money - just take all the bits off, re-face the flat bits, re-bush the shafts and slap em back together.
Advice?
Cheers, Sam
I was quoted $170 each for type 3 carbs by a local carb place. $250 ea sounds too expensive.
What type of dizzy are you running?
Have you done a leak test on the carbs to confirm that they are leaking?
Ain't nothin' like the wind in your hair.
get the throttle shafts rebushed, do it by mail, ring carb services in adelaide for a quote. should be cheap for them to kit the whole carb. If you send an express post sachel and bubble wrap yourself it would help.
learn to balance them yourself
cheers
kkk
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Just stripped the whole lot down and put it back together - i would say the throttle spindles are less loose that i had first thought... nothing seems to be missing or obviously broken, no split gaskets, no dirt to be found ????
Any ideas?
I havent done a leak test - how can i test to see if its the carbs that are causing this?
p.s. single vac dissy with electronic ignition
[ Edited on 6/7/2006 by Samblers ]
Before I got my bus painted I was experiecneing the same problem. Will probably have to rebuild the carbs when I get it back on the road..
Seems bloody expensive, where did you guys get the cheaper quotes?
How are your accel pumps? Working within specs?
Pay your debts, CxxT
Usual leak test is to have the car idling and spray the area around the manifold flange and throttle shafts with something flammable like WD40, Start ya bastard etc. It the revs rise when you spray, you have a vacuum leak. It's important to get it fixed because lean running increases engine temps and we all know how bad that is for our little air pumpers!
Shop around, call some other shops and ask them for a quote. Ask your mechanic if he can recommend a good place.
Ain't nothin' like the wind in your hair.
the accelerator pump is usually the cause of the flat spot just off idle it squirts fuel straight down the venturi to compensate for the transition between the idle circuit and the mainjet (sometimes the brass squirters which should point directly down towards the centre of the venturi can over the course of many years have either come loose and turned sideways or fallen out which will cause a major flat spot) easy to test just have the carbs off and the float bowl full of fuel and operate the throttle arm if you squirt ten times and collect the fuel in a container and measure the amount it should be between 13 to 17 cc which equates to 1.3 to 1.7 cc per stroke you can adjust the amount by turning in or out the small screw thingo on the accelerator pump arm which is on the outside of the carbs, the only other real problem area are the progression holes located on the side of the butterfly assembly there should be 4 or more very small holes they can be blocked with crud get carby cleaner and squirt liberally in to those holes, and then maybe some compressed air, to rebuild a set of solex carbies should only take about a day if its your first time you can purchase a carby rebuild kit for about $60 which covers both carbies plus a couple of cans of carby cleaner a toothbrush and some petrol, + rubber gloves to protect the hands, also check all your vacuum rubber lines if they are loose or cracked you will have all sorts of problems.
of course all the other areas should be checked valve adjustment, timing, points, plugs and I am assuming you are using the standard 1800 distributor not a replacement, the standard distributor has both mechanical and vacuum advance.
these old solexes do tend to have a flat spot off idle and they are really much harder to tune than a set of webers or dellortos, and the main reason is that the left carby is different to the right and their tuning circuits are very basic.
I've rebuilt several sets of solexes I would recommend that you try it, that way you know whats going on, a gregory's or bentleys workshop manual helps, the carby rebuild kits come with exploded views of the carbies to help with reassembly.
Thanks kombidaze, thats the most help anyones given me for ages!
When i stripped both carbs I did the whole clean up thing and also had a carb re-build kit to replace any worn/ questionable looking bits. SO, i'm assuming the carb has no crud or anything in it and is working more or less properly but just needs adjusting.
I'll have a go at the accelerator pump thingo and collect some of the juice it squirts... to be honest i can't recall there being any brass elbows in either of the carbs - perhaps its swallowed them both? There is an elbow further down the throat of the carb which is cast into the body, but i think my accelerator pump squirts directly OUTwards... not DOWNwards ...???
BTW its a standard Mechanical/ single Vac advance dissy which i've timed at 7.5deg BTDC
I WILL fix this damn thing!
Sam
OK, just been checking out pictures of peoples solex PDSIT rebuilds... I'm sure i dont have those bent brass accelerator injector tube thingos
could that really be the problem?
Anyone got any?!
Sam
Wow that was helpful thanks mate, has renewed my enthusiasm to find the problem myself!
Carb rebuild kits are fairly cheap from memory to...
Something I can do on the kitchen table! :-D
99% chance thats your prob, you gotta squirt the fuel down the hole not just dribble out the side,i just looked but i dont have any left ,i'm sure somebody here will have some junk pdsit carbs ,the pict ones dont fit :beer:beer:beer
Don't argue with an idiot; people watching may not be able to tell the difference.
Nope, i was talking bollocks, I do have them!
Both seem to be squirting fine (not dribbling). How the hell do I get a pipe on those to measure the discharge??!!
dont, sit the carb over a jar and catch the juice when you work the throttle then tip it into a measure its not perfect but its damn close.:beer:beer:beer
Don't argue with an idiot; people watching may not be able to tell the difference.
Oh, so i have to take them off then 🥲
Facken thing!
They definitley do work well when they are rebuilt well and in good condition. I had a set rebuilt at a cost of 350 a few years ago, and I was feeling a bit sick when fitting them up thinking if they don't make the bus run any better I have just wasted money.
Fortunatley they were beautiful. The company that did mine wer Mulla & Jacka here in Melbourne, and they actually test run each of my carbies using an adapter plate on an old Datsun motor they have in the back of their workshop to ensure everything is operating. I suppose the old motor is a good way of using load, vacuum etc. to check it under the best conditions.
You will get it right. 🙂
