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case studs

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Marz Seriously Crusin Dubber

117 posts · joined Jul 2004 ·

#510858
I'm going to build a 1776cc in a AS21 case and im wondering if it worth putting 10mm studs and case savers rather than the 8mm with case saver???

hellbugged 48's and straight cuts

5,080 posts · joined Apr 2003 ·

#510868
stick with the 8mm

dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome

5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·

#511097
To give you and idea how good the genuine head studs are, Wally uses them in his 1915 turbo that runs close to 300hp at the wheels (10.18@139)
I use 10mm Vw studs in most of my race engines because they dont get hot enough, and doo provide better clamp forces when cold..
But the genuine 8mm stud can can expand and contract with the engine, thus preventing pulled studs.
I think Stan uses 10mm, but turns them down to give clearance with the 94 cylinder, and to give them the ability to stretch as needed...like a type 4 stud.
Ramble, ramble, blah, blah....use genuine 8mm studs.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.

Bizarre Moderator The artist formerly known as blue74l

12,789 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#511141
vw54 wrote:Use the 8s and inserts
I have been told this is the best set up and it is what i used
Futue te ipsum!!!

Marz Seriously Crusin Dubber

117 posts · joined Jul 2004 ·

#511257
looks like I'l use 8mm safe abit off stuffin around as well

Bizarre Moderator The artist formerly known as blue74l

12,789 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#511261
From :-

http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/t1hpeng.htm

Use 8mm head studs. New cases have case savers (Helicoils) built in, and these are far stronger than head studs threaded directly into the case. Use factory VW 8mm head studs (used are fine), since they expand and contract at the correct rate, and keep head torque constant. 10mm studs don't do this, and that's why 10mm stud engines have a problem with pulled studs. The VW factory changed to case savers and 8mm head studs in 1972 to solve this problem.
Futue te ipsum!!!