how long do you guys thing i should run in the bus for?
it has had a complete engine rebuild with all new parts,
up untill now i have been changing at around 3000 - 3500
i have now done close to 250kms in the new engine, and is on its secont sump of good oil
is a 3500 by the way
thanks guys
76 baywindow kombi - V8 & Weddle racing diff and gearbox
Daily driven beach cruiser
My thoughts on running in are drive in traffic and up and down hills. Stop and start. Let the engine cool down and warm it up gently. Don't drive it till your temp gauge is starting to move. Go and buy your groceries in the car.
The longer you don't flog the engine for as its running in, the better it will run down the track.
cool, thats exactly what i have been doing, building it up on hiils and that too,
cheers
76 baywindow kombi - V8 & Weddle racing diff and gearbox
Daily driven beach cruiser
I was informed when I got my new engine to throw it back into second early rather than rev it too far in first, don't let it labour, and keep under 50 miles an hour for the first 500 miles. I have heard its also good to drive it a varying speeds.....don't cruise down the highway at the same speed for extended periods. The warranty of my new engine said the running in period lasts about 3000 miles.
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
against the grain but makes sense.
Recently ran my 125 4 stroke in using this method. Tore it down last weekend, good ring seal, no blow by and no scuffing.
Main thing is dont flog it from cold and keep oil changes freqent...
When we getting some vids of the beast in action!?!?
cool, yer thats how i have always run in the motocross machines,
my 4 stroke has still got good compression and thats nearly 2 years old
yer mate its being tuned on wednesday (tomorrow) so ill see if i can get some videos then,
test it out at the quater mile near barbagallo raceway..... which is OfCOURsE a sealed off road.......🙅
76 baywindow kombi - V8 & Weddle racing diff and gearbox
Daily driven beach cruiser
flog f*ck out of it
Not quite, but after reading the Mototune website etc etc as mentioned above, I did NOTHING BUT WOT from 2-4000rpm in the first 500km with my most recent 1916 and it's my best engine yet
Pay your debts, CxxT
I agree with the harder breakin.
My EH had the motor run what I thought was pretty hard in top gear on a dyno for 20 minutes. Seeing a new motor revved up to 3000rpm seems hard at the time, but the preformance engine guy said he was taking it easy compared to some race engines that cop 6000-8000rpm.
Don't nurse it. You'll do it no good at all.
After the 1st couple of oil changes - hook in!
VW car, VW engine ...... keepin it "real"
35MPG on 101.3kPa
oh god yes!
i'm now really looking foreward to the hour drive to college 2morra!
i picked it up from the engine tuners 2day with 2 new main jet kits and a work over and it is nealry twice as fast as before the tuning ... no joking :beer
76 baywindow kombi - V8 & Weddle racing diff and gearbox
Daily driven beach cruiser
so there shud b twice as much smoke when you drop that clutch?
i'll 2nd that
dont baby a new engine
i gave mine heaps from day one and its now over 8 years old and still runs great
i pulled it down in '02 to get some head work done and it was still like new inside
dads old navara 2.4L work truck was also a testiment to this
first thing it got was a max speed test to 180km/h
its now got 334,000kms and never had any engine work done cept for an idler bearing
doesnt even leak or use oil
-Joel
i now gota take one step back and re ring the pistons off the engine with 234kms on it...
turns out that the chokes in both the carbs were jamed on when i first ran the car, all up to when i had it tuned on wednesday, which is there for 200kms on a brand new engine with terribly rich fuel mixtures.
this somehow prevented the rings bedding into the sleeves leaving me with 4 fouled plugs and a compression rating minimum of 90 in one cylinder!!! (should be at least 130)
could be worse tho, its only a 6 hour job but its the whole point of re-doing it all again...
im going to try the 'hard run in' this time, fill up the tank and drive it out the back of the quiet street, stop & start giving it hell for an hour or two,
AAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHH starting to not like cars again............... oh well
76 baywindow kombi - V8 & Weddle racing diff and gearbox
Daily driven beach cruiser
if you ask this question to 10 dif mechs you will get 10 dif answers all totaly dif, so just drive it i say
1961 swb buggy
1960 karmann ghia
1963 Single Cab: "El Concreto"
1963 bent 23 window " Frieda Samba "
1963 Eriba Faun camper " Cara Van daCamp"
2012 Skoda Octavia scout
Get down low and go,go,go
Ide of thought running really rich will make your rings wear faster by washing the film of oil off the bore?
If the mechanic told u about the comp ide double check for sure. Might be valves not seating properly?
Anyway, good luck and get it right ;-)
(vids asap!!!! :-P)
I recently put in a lovely shiny new 1800 in my Bay to replace the hammering (in a bad way) old one. The first oil change, at 300km, what a lovely sight. All shiny silver and bronze particles in the oil, mmm.
But, at 1000km, checking the oil, I still notice a bit of grey particulate matter on the oil rag. The dipstick is pretty tight in this motor (fan shroud might need tightening?). The oil is still lovely and amber, at just 700km. Is the grey stuff normal? I was told that I had to do a change before 500km, and did so, but I was wondering at what point is the motor 'run-in' complete? I am surprised that it might still be wearing in... 1000km is a lot of up and down at each piston, even if a fair bit of it was in 4th gear.
There is not a single drop of oil under the bus! Not even the engine support bar rubber bolt ends (the low points) have any oil on them, yay! I am so happy! 🙂 And I now use less fuel.
All interesting reading above, thanks guys.
Cheers, A.
