Machining spec for 1916

2,577 posts · joined May 2004 · 23 Aug 2006, 3:00 pm

#525820

If anyone out there has accurate spec's to machine VW T1 case and heads to 1916 it would be appreciated.

Having problems trying to get local guys up here to do the work.

Any assistance would be appreciated.

Doug Sweetman Nil Bastardo Carborundum

2,128 posts · joined Sep 2002 · 23 Aug 2006, 3:52 pm

#525831

You could try u2u to Adam Debiasi (debiasi4), Dangerous Dave Butler (Dangerous) or Mr Penrose. Any of those guys should know.

VWCOOL 23 Windows of Awesome

5,158 posts · joined Jun 2003 · 23 Aug 2006, 7:17 pm

#525905

Ship it down to Stan Pobjoy's Racing Engineering in NSW. won't weigh much and will be worth the $.

Pay your debts, CxxT

66deluxe Custom Title Time!

1,593 posts · joined Aug 2005 · 23 Aug 2006, 10:31 pm

#526009

What VWCOOL said, i have just rebuilt an engine that was built by pobjoy and the specs are spot on, all measurements eg, deck height and BDC on all four pistons and cylinders measured to within 0.05mm of each other. Stan machines the case wear the cylinder sits flat so each side measures true to the centreline of th crank, but if you ring Stan to ask him to do the job i hope you have speakerphone cause man he can talk.

This is my Volkswagen, there are many like it, but this one is mine. Without me my Volkswagen is useless, without my Volkswagen, I am useless.

61 Karmann Ghia 2110cc type1 w Los Panchito's
66 Deluxe Beetle 2270 type 4
10 Subaru WRX Impreza

dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome

5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 · 25 Aug 2006, 8:33 pm

#526722

Here is what I do:
Spot face the case savers down to 2mm below the original deck surface.
Deck the case 1.75mm.
This is what, in most cases, will be needed to get a surface that is wide enough.
I use a boring/facing head to do this, and only remove to a diameter as big as the cylinder base.
I then bore the case to 94.5mm down to the original factory corner with a 4mm radius.
Then bore for the cylinder diameter plus .05mm clearance,
to a depth of 20mm.
The cylinder spigot is 16mm long plus room for the radius.
And add a 1mm chamfer at the top.
On the head end, I bore for .1 to .15mm clearance on the diameter,
and I only go deep enough,
so that I can leave a step for piston to head clearance.
This will vary for desired compression ratio, but I like no more than 1.5mm,
and recommend a dished piston if you want lower comp.
Most people just use deck height to lower the comp but this is inefficient(but will work OK).
It is best to measure the actual cylinder to are using to get a nice fit.

westi wrote:That's mad Alan.