Engine change from Auto to Manual

brent Casual Dubber

45 posts · joined Sep 2006 · 9 Sep 2006, 4:49 pm

#532444

I've picked up a 1500 Twin port to throw into my beetle to get it on the road while I rebuild the 1600, I have a few questions though.

The motor came from an Auto beetle and Ive noticed a few differences.

The oil pump for the auto tranny that is on the front of the engine, can I just remove that and use the block off plate that my 1600 has on it?

I'm trying to get the flywheel off of the 1600 to put on the 1500, what torque setting is this bolt? I can't even get it to move with a rattle gun! I know I'll need to know the torque setting anyway.

There is a roller bearing thingy I can see where the gearbox input shaft sits at the end of the crank, is this part of the flywheel bolt? or do I need to get one of these bearings, I'm hoping the cranks are actually the same between the autos and the manuals.

Any other gotchas I need to be aware of?

Any help appreciated, I have some mechanical knowledge but I'm pretty much a newbie when it comes to VWs

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ctefeh Wolfsburg Wizard

479 posts · joined Apr 2005 · 9 Sep 2006, 5:03 pm

#532453

Brent,
Fully Auto (type 3) or semi-auto (Beetle)
On a Beetle.
Oil pump, no. Longer bottom shaft. Better to replace it complete.

About 250ft/Lbs. Get a 3/4" rattle gun and a flywheel lock tool. Otherwise a "torque dude" tool and flywheel lock. Runs around 125.00 retail. PS, only works on a manual flywheel.

Pilot bearing. Should have grease in there .

You should re-set crank endplay after bolting up the manual flywheel.

Semi Auto beetle differences.
The nut on the crank is different. The auto one is thinner and doesn't have a bearing.

Oil pump/s. Already mentioned. If the 1500 is a very early one, it probably has small galleries and has a specific pump for that.

Inlet manifold. Normally has a 12mm spigot below the carb to supply vacuum.

Rear tinware is different to accomodate the ATF line, no big deal.

Lee (68Autobug) and killkornkob both have 1500 S-A beetles and there are a few things I might not be aware of that they could mention.

And please be nice when ripping off the flex plate (if it's there!), and don't chuck away the gland nut!

Enjoy
Ctefeh

[ Edited on 9/9/2006 by ctefeh ]

Midlife crisis Nartispuddlejumper, Bureau of Toxicity

2,282 posts · joined May 2003 · 9 Sep 2006, 5:03 pm

#532454

I have used auto engines in manual cars with no trouble at all.

The bolt that holds the flex plate on to the crank from the auto is not the same as the one you need for the flywheel. use the one form the other engine if it has a flywheel.

When we used an semi auto engine we just put a new standard oil pump in place of the semi auto one.

When putting on and taking off flywheel nuts I use a 3/4 inch drive with a 10foot long bar and push like hell.

Marc

If you can't laugh at yourself you can't laugh at anyone else! Because life is to short not to LAUGH

mackaymanx Custom Title Time!

1,611 posts · joined Jan 2006 · 9 Sep 2006, 5:09 pm

#532456

You will need to replace the oil pump
Flywheel nut torque is 217 ft/lb (do not use a rattle gun to tighten it)
bearing is part of the nut(it is pressed in)
cranks are the same between autos and manuals
make sure you set the end float on crankshaft (.0035" +/- .001")

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brent Casual Dubber

45 posts · joined Sep 2006 · 9 Sep 2006, 5:35 pm

#532466

Thanks for the help guys, yeah I was careful with the flex plate and I don't throw anything away 🙂
Can I use the oil pump off my 1600?
How do I set the end float???

Oh yeah, had kinda guessed using a rattle gun to put the bolt thingo on would be a bad idea 🙂 Just gotta get it off the 1600 first and then find a torque wrench to borrow 🙁

funds aren't going to stretch that far at the moment, I'm fighting an Insurance company at the moment to replace my GSXR1000K6 that a 4wd thoughtfully tore in half for me 🙁

[ Edited on 9-9-2006 by brent ]

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