ok recently had the clutch cable snap in my baja. up untill this happend the clutch was great.
reaplced the cable and went to drive car but only made a whirring noise when clutch pedal was depressed and the engine revvs would drop and engine would stall.
dropped engine and found clutch for broken.
replaced clutch fork and now clutch pedal is much lighter and it doesnt engage as sudden as it used to. i dont like the way it feels now it used to be heavy and nice.
its been suggested that maybe my pressure plate needs replacing.
suggestions?
Nick
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
If it gets gears OK and has free play at the tranny arm, it is most likely as it should be.
Probably was heavy before because of all the probs that surfaced.
If it does not slip when you drive, leave it alone.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Your pressure plate is on the way out and has reduced tension... or
If You replaced the clutch cable arm ..?
You may have installed a longer arm which makes it easier to push in... [from a later model gearbox] ?
or the fork was different..?
old cable was binding?
Not sure what model Your gearbox was...
but as someone else pointed out...
if its not slipping keep driving it...
cheers
Lee
http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
my bowden tube never used to have much bend in it. i fixed that when i replaced the fork.
i didnt replace the arm, only the fork. the new fork is a 2nd hand 1200 box fork. my gearbox is a swinger. i think 1200. and the new fork was exactly the same as my old one.
how much free play should be at the arm?
it still gets gears ok and doesnt slip at revs or anything but when engaging it sort of engages for a longer period if that makes sense?
i hope its just me lol
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
Hi Nick,
It sounds to Me like You are just slowly getting it into gear
rather than pushing it straight thru....
I think maybe Your clutch is only just disengaging , maybe clutch still touching...
so another half turn of the adjusting nut
or your pressure plate has reduced tension...
and this is , as good as its going to be...
I'd squirt some oil into the bowden tube..
the cable may be binding against the top..
and no lubrication means harder pedal pressure...
clutch freeplay is only shown for the pedal..
it can be 10 to 20mm measured at the top of the pedal
cheers
Lee[/b]
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
Maybe the clutch is now working correctly?
Have someone push the pedal and look at the arm. Where does it completely engage? make sure it is disengaging and engaging, if it isnt slipping and gets the gears ok just drive!
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have u checked that the return spring on the arm seated properly when u refitted it?
it can make for a fair sort of differnce in clutch pedal pressure if its broken or not seated properly
-Joel
the spring on the arm was always loose. i just put it back on like it was before.....loose.
i shall fiddle with the adjustment tomorrow morning and see how i go. ive got a few hours before work.
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
Put a vice grip on the clutch lever arm and pull it forward until the pressure of the clutch is felt. To disengage the clutch will need a much harder push. Do that to see how much movemant is in the system. push it to the start of the hard resistance and adjust the cable to that point, by turning the big wing nut to that point, but not really tight. When you let it go the lever will move back a little bit as it takes up the slack.
When engaged the clutch lever should only be about 0.5 of a centimetre back from the hard pressure position.
That should also give about 1 or 2 centimetres slack at the pedal top, which is about right.
The spring should not be loose, they break off the hook on the end. It should look like this.
Quote of the week
"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
[IMG]https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate2-18600.png[/IMG]are you sure you didn't bend a finger or two on the clutch when you put the motor in ? although your clutch may not have fingers being a 1200
[ Edited on 12-9-06 by Desert Moose ]
my spring has obviously snapped then......but if thats the case then it has always been snapped so shouldnt make a difference.
im pretty sure i didnt bend anything. this clutch has the fingers but it also has the metal contact ring which connects them and provides the contact surface for the thrust bearing so kind hard to bend them anyway.]
ive just re adjusted and it now has a little more free play and drove it backwards and forwards in the garage for a few feet but havent taken it for a spin yet cause ive gotta get ready for work. ill let you know how i go....
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
clutch is behaving much better now after decent adjustment.
what i was associating with the clutch was actually mostly to do with the engine and not the clutch at all......seems to have lost compression over night and subsquently....tourque.
see other thread
what the hell my car is chucking a tantrum.
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
