Leesvw wrote:Yeah small world. I can't wait to compare notes, I'm drooling all over this idea.. my wife is a little sick of it about now. If I only had the cash....
Yeah, mine too, but with the sense of "stop talking and do it already!"
However, she's to blame, because _she_ was the one who was into VWs when we met! Now she's driving a Scion
🙂
George
ha ha.. thats funny.. I've had my bus for like 12 years and my wife isn't so into V-dubs.. but I'm turning her.. I swear. Call me damn it!!!!! We should meet up on saterday or something
I did the negotiation with the wife the easy way. I did the conversion to HER bus. That way it is like a present for her. 🙂
Went to a dyno day yesterday, and the bus ran 76kw at the rear wheels, or about 101hp in the old speak. That was in shootout mode. The motor was running pump fuel, aircleaner on, exactly as it would run on the street, unmodified.
So there is an official figure that can be quoted as fact. It is what you would expect as the EJ22 is about 100kw at the flywheel.
Helbus wrote:Went to a dyno day yesterday, and the bus ran 76kw at the rear wheels, or about 101hp in the old speak. That was in shootout mode. The motor was running pump fuel, aircleaner on, exactly as it would run on the street, unmodified.
So there is an official figure that can be quoted as fact. It is what you would expect as the EJ22 is about 100kw at the flywheel.
Sounds great! What is "shootout mode?"
George
From what I know, 'shootout' mode is a set variable mode run on the dyno used primarily for showing maximum horsepower, and not any other info used when 'dyno' tuning. Kmh, torque and some variables which are able to be 'corrected' or 'tweaked'
Basically it is a fairer, truer indication of the comparable hp of the vehicle.
Like how all dragstrips have set length, gradient, timers, etc.., but ultimatley the air temp and barometric pressure are at the mercy of the weather, so still there can be differences, but they are limited.
Pic of the drag day.
go the hell bus:thumb
got to love the subi power nice pic
1961 swb buggy
1960 karmann ghia
1963 Single Cab: "El Concreto"
1963 bent 23 window " Frieda Samba "
1963 Eriba Faun camper " Cara Van daCamp"
2012 Skoda Octavia scout
Get down low and go,go,go
haha, hell yer a baywindow on the strip looks so great!
gota love it mate
76 baywindow kombi - V8 & Weddle racing diff and gearbox
Daily driven beach cruiser
Helbus wrote:I will make a brcaket to hang the header tank from above.
It pretty much just sits there just with the hoses.
Hi Peter, just going thru your installation log and wonder what belt you are using to the alternator? I don't need the power steering or the aircon either. Rob
man that was a hard launch there. much wheelspin?
pete wood wrote:man that was a hard launch there. much wheelspin?
That picture is about 15m down the track. It just about lost all upwards suspension travel at initial launch.
With the bullbar and spare assy off the front, it should really lift.
Not any wheelspin that was of any concern, just an initial chirp.
I hope you loaded up the gearbox with the handbrake before launching. 😉
Funny that they are so light. No one would think 100kw at the wheels would be able to lift the front wheels. Just goes to show how savage the weight transfere is.
BTW, how's your back these days? All good now?
pete wood wrote:I hope you loaded up the gearbox with the handbrake before launching. 😉
is that a joke or are you serious?
if its true ill do it off take offs too
76 baywindow kombi - V8 & Weddle racing diff and gearbox
Daily driven beach cruiser
Yep, it's true. You load up the gearbox by slipping the clutch while holding the handbrake on hard. Just a little til you can feel it take up the slack and push against it. To go just drop the handbrake, release the clutch and floor it. This substantially lessens the shock loading on the gearbox on takeoff. It also lessens wheelspin. 👍
Only 76kw at the rear wheels. It makes sense about the handbrake. It is like using a 'roll control' or 'line locker' solenoid. You press the brakes, press the button, release the brakes and the roll controll button holds the brakes locked on. Then you only have to lift your finger off the button (which can be on the steering wheel or shifter on a drag car) and the the loaded drivetrain will release.
They are also used backwards to stop brake usage on the rear brakes and become what is commonly used to do burnouts.
The back is good now, just careful not to use my spine as a human crane, and some loss of flexibility, so calesthenics and pole vaulting are out
rocknrob wrote:Helbus wrote:I will make a brcaket to hang the header tank from above.
It pretty much just sits there just with the hoses.
Hi Peter, just going thru your installation log and wonder what belt you are using to the alternator? I don't need the power steering or the aircon either. Rob
I'm in the same boat. Could you read the number off the belt for us. Might save a couple of false tries!
George
5pk690
I just bought and installed one. A 5pk700 will also work.
Brendan
A VW for everyone!!
1972 1302 German Look
1971 Bay Panel with Subaru EJ20T
1970 Type 3 squareback in progress
1971 Type 3 notchback in progress
71EJVan wrote:5pk690
I just bought and installed one. A 5pk700 will also work.
Brendan
excellent!
rocknrob wrote:71EJVan wrote:5pk690
I just bought and installed one. A 5pk700 will also work.
Brendan
excellent!
If you're in the UK Halfords sell 'em for about 6UKP
Helbus wrote:little brackets to hold pod and air flow meter up.
I just saw a failure of a serpentine belt that made me think of the Helbus conversion. One of the little "vees" separated from the others and whipped around for a while before the driver investigated the noise. In the Helbus setup this sort of failure might do very bad things to the pod filter and cause bits to be sucked into the engine.
You might want to consider a little guard attached to the pod mount just in case! Probably a 1-in-a-million, but there is that fellow Murphy...
George
Cheers George, noted.
Will pass that info on the the boys on VWKD too.
It's been a year. How is the conversion holding up? Any long-term problems?
George
Been well over 2 years and getting close to 9000 km's. No adjustments, changes or anything done at all whatsoever. I have changed the oil once, fitted a radiator overflow bottle, and nothing else. I still have not fitted a heater.
The only things I would like to do is the heater of course, and an adjustment of the throttle cable, as it is just a bit tight when initially depressing.
I agree...it just seems so normal to have an engine that runs so sweet with twice the go and seems to use half the fuel that you don't even think about it...leaning forward up hills is just an old memory😂
Gives the wanna be racers in their V6 auto Commodores with monster tacho and shiftlight a run for their money at the lights too. They cannot get the initial jump at the lights, and the look on their faces when you pull up at the next set of lights is almost as funny as their mates in the car ragging them because they are racing a Kombi. LOL
helbus wrote:Gives the wanna be racers in their V6 auto Commodores with monster tacho and shiftlight a run for their money at the lights too. They cannot get the initial jump at the lights, and the look on their faces when you pull up at the next set of lights is almost as funny as their mates in the car ragging them because they are racing a Kombi. LOL
Great feeling isn't it?
👍
Just don't do it twice cos they expect it the next time.
I've started to call it "Chav baiting" over here (UK)
it is a good feeling!!
i was just wondering with your setup you are running the pod filter straight off air flow meter which is straight off the throttle body on my setup am using the original induction pipe and pod sits in the part behind the tail light on the passenger side.
i want to get rid of the pipe because it creates cluster in the engine bay etc and am wondering if you just blocked off all the pipes that would originally go into the induction pipe?
cheers
rhys
it aint just cool its aircool'd
It goes like this
Throttle body
Rubber hose joiner 50mm
Short 100mm bit of pipe with two hoses to engine attached
Rubber hose joiner 50mm
Airflow meter
Pod adapter flange
Pod filter
the pod ends about 100mm past the engine
hey
where did you hook the breather pipes upto?
cheers
rhys
it aint just cool its aircool'd