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Att: MickH Radiator Qus

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pete wood 23 Windows of Awesome

6,828 posts · joined Jan 2004 ·

#536161
Hi mick,

What Radiator have you go in ya Manx and what are the dimentions of of it?

I'm thinking of going front radiatored sooner rather than later. 🙁
"stoopid is stronger than axles"
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/

MickH Hairy Gutted Sloth

3,389 posts · joined Sep 2003 ·

#536174
pete wood wrote:Thanx Mike. Gives me a better idea of what it involves.

Re the club, you have u2u.
I DON"T get commision....you will have an email this afternoon Pete......
tssnq.com.au

pete wood 23 Windows of Awesome

6,828 posts · joined Jan 2004 ·

#536183
What do you want commission for? 🙅

Ta, I'll u2u my email address.

It's front radiator or go a bigger scoop on the back.

Yesterday (30deg and a cross wind) I was driving along top off on the freeway at 110kmh and the temp was gradually climbing. The fans came on and it kept climbing. In the finish, and I know this will make you laugh...I had the heater fan on full bore with the vents pointing out of the car to keep it at about 93deg.

Somethings got to give. I know the issue was the cross winds. Whenever there are cross winds, the car just doesn't cool as well on the freeway, it's fine around town. Must be halving the amount of air the car gets going in the scoop. So I need a bigger scoop or a front radiator.

Front radiator will mess with everthing on the front of the car though, not to mention my new heater pipes...😬
"stoopid is stronger than axles"
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/

MickH Hairy Gutted Sloth

3,389 posts · joined Sep 2003 ·

#536186
pete wood wrote:,

and I know this will make you laugh...I had the heater fan on full bore with the vents pointing out of the car .😬
😂😂😂😂....30 degrees and you had the heater on!!!!Funniest thing I've heard today...so far. So you're not a sook,your just MAD:bounce
tssnq.com.au

subibaja Wolfsburg Wizard

501 posts · joined Sep 2005 ·

#537633
hey pete

about that radiator its the same as i am running
and to be honest with you , when it comes down down to it its shit in my opinion
if you are going to mount one in the front i,d go vl commodore or something big
the other one just doesnt seem to be big enough to play silly buggers with ( and that is when the fun starts)

reason for this is
my thery
the amount of water in the side pipes is more than the amout of water in radiator and when puishing it hard for a while doesnt get enough time to cool before it moves back to the motor again . i dont know if my side pipes are too big in diameter or not maybe that is my problem
but will be trying a bigger one for sure when i rebody the old girl
now
i dont know enough smart stuff to give you any advice for or against this is just my experience
if that makes any sence

ohh and its a turbo diesel golf radiator
i,m going to use a bloody truck radiator if i have too to keep it cool even if it kills me

terry
anyone who says it's bad to put subaru motors in vw's.....
hasnt got a clue about smoooooooooth

terry
brisbane
0403252522
you know who i am

pete wood 23 Windows of Awesome

6,828 posts · joined Jan 2004 ·

#537713
I've been reflecting on the situation. I think the issue is not actually the radiator, but the heater. Allow me to explain.
Until very recently, the car has been cooling very well. In fact, before I got the heater installed, the temp rarely got above 80deg. Now, admittedly, it's been colder weather, but even still. It was fine all last summer. The only big change for the car has been adding the heater. I think all the water that flows through the heater is not cooling on hot days(when the heater is not in use and this is causing a heat build up in the rest of the system.
Solution, I think I need a heater bipass tap. I was planning to put one in anyway, but this is the only thing missing per se, from the system. Now, as I said, it needs one anyway, but I'm fairly sure, shortening the path of the water and bypassing the heater should allow the water to get to the radiator earlier and prevent the motor heating up so much. I'm fairly sure this is the case, coz when I turn the heater on when the motor is quite hot, the temp drops very fast.
The only other issue may be the bleed point I put in the heater system leaking or releasing pressure, but the car doesn't seem to be loosing fluid so I don't think it's that.



[ Edited on 25-9-06 by pete wood ]
"stoopid is stronger than axles"
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/

Brad Wolfsburg Elder

3,764 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#537731
Pete,

After reading your post I am going to have a guess and say that you are 100% correct in your assessment that the problem is your heater. It seems as though you may have made a common error when you have hook it up.

The EJ series engines uses a bypass system to assist in controlling the thermostat. In the Subaru the heater circuit does not have a closed state. The coolant either goes through the heater core or not, but it never gets stopped. If you stop the flow or coolant then the thermostat will not function correctly and will cause the engine to over heat.

This is a common mistake especially on the T3 where people us the VW heater system which stops the coolant flow.

The easy fix is to just put a cross over pipe in although this will reduce the effectiveness of your heater. The best solution is to use a y valve and set it up like the Subaru with either heater or bypass.

In relation to the radiators and what works..

The golf radiator will cool the EJ 22 although its capacity is close and it needs good air flow. Terry’s issue has a lot to do with air flow and interference rather than radiator size. That being said his new baja will have a bigger radiator as we can’t do much about flow with the current body setup.

Mick H has the same radiator but his is out in front and gets better flow. It does the job and as far as I know hasn’t over heater, the thermo comes on but that is normal.

It is funny how people often consider thermo’s coming on as a cooling system short fall. It wasn’t that long ago when cars had manual fans on the crank or water pump which was always on/

Anyway fix your heater system and your cooling system will work just like it did before.
Brad
Why copy when you can own an original ?
Meyers Manx Australia

Baja Wes V6 Baja Pioneer

3,119 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#537761
hey Brad, I recently found this site that has heaps of good subaru files, included EJ22 manuals and parts list;
http://www.prachapter34.com/converting_engines.htm

It is based around subaru use in air craft.

They had a few points on heating;
EJ-22s are famous for having cooling problems especially if you take them out of the car.

The problems tend to be:

1. Air bubbles accumulate in the system. Even very very small amounts of air in the cooling system will cause heating problems. Make sure you have a filler tube that is tall enough to act as an air catch to remove air from the system.

2. Use the STOCK subaru EJ-22 thermostat. Do NOT use 3-rd party replacements that say they are for the EJ-22

3. Drill a small hole in the side of the thermostat. This will allow trapped air to past the thermostat.

4. EJ-22 water pumps will fail or degrade when stored for more than a few months in the engine. Loosen the timing belt and spray the inside of the pump above the thermostat with a good lubricant.
Wes - www.offroadvw.net - 200HP Quad Cam V6 in a VW Baja - with climate control... 🙂
www.taylorcycles.com.au - My DH MTB racing brothers shop.

pete wood 23 Windows of Awesome

6,828 posts · joined Jan 2004 ·

#538191
At the mo, the coolent is always going through the heater core. I think the diameter (20mm) and length (4m all up) of the heater pipes is slowing the flow down too, making it retain extra heat. In warmer weather it isn't getting to the radiator fast enough. So yes, a Y valve will go in soon.


[ Edited on 26-9-06 by pete wood ]
"stoopid is stronger than axles"
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/