Is there any way one can adjust an engine either via timing, or tuning, or perhaps a certain swap for components whether it be intake etc, to be able to have a near to full smooth acceleration all round with a bosch 009 distributor?
apparently, according to jeff hibbard, it produces almost 30 degrees advance at just over 2500 rpm, and then u got a good all-out acceleration, but under that, apparently its not too flash. He further says that a vw engine should not be revved much over 4000 rpm, which means i only got a 1500 rpm rev range to flat out go in.
cheers guys,
any help would be great!
cya,
chris.
If u got any parts or know of any stuff i should get, that will help, plz certainly tell or offer.
[ Edited on 18/9/2006 by bajachris88 ]
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
supercharger heaps? :P👍
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
🙅
Hi Chris,
with the 009 dizzy on My beetle or My Son's two beetles...
I know they are crap...
and Volkswagen never ever used the 009 dizzy,
but until something else comes along...:P:P:thumb
They have a huge problem in the USA with the 009 when used with the late Solex PICT 34 carby with pollution controls...
they usually adjust the accelerator pump to get over the flat spot...
Seeing Semi Auto Beetles don't have a flywheel...
they go OK...
especially if painted yellow..:P:P:P:thumb
but with a flywheel, and only mechanical advance...
they still work Ok... :P:P:P:o
Lee --
http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug
[ Edited on 18-9-2006 by 68AutoBug ]
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
Hey Chris,
Don't believe everything you read, including my 2c worth here, but a stock vw will rev to 5500 and is built to run at around 4000 all day every day no worries.
I've been doing work on a bonestock 1500SP beetle with stock carb and a 009 recently.
There is no flat spot that I could detect with this setup.
Actually, it's really torquey down low and revs out nicely between gears. More torque than many stock twin port / twin carb VW's that I've ever driven.
Timing was set statically to factory specs.
One thing with a 009 that I've found is that you need to be quite sure footed or it wants to buck a bit right down low, otherwise it's great.
This might not help your prob much but know that it can be overcome even with a 009. Others will know more I'm sure...
Cheers, Toby 👍
.
cheers Lee and Toby, this is good news then, was told 009s work betta on sp than tp motors.
At least u guys have used em, and haven't had trouble. I got a vacuum advance dissy from a 67 motor, and its misbehaving, and from the look of it, everything on it needs replacing. So i said bugger it, will keep an eye out for one for sale. so getting a good condition one for a dam reasonable price, $30. 😀
I'm still thinking Lee of keeping my stock carb... haven't made decisions yet. apparently the 34 pict-3 are a harder to tune. I did promise it to a guy to give to him, he hasn't claimed it yet, so have been having thoughts, will still hold onto it for him for a few months. the stock carby is still good. Will the jump from 30 pict to 34 pict have a big effect?
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
there are a couple of things to look at mate. firstly hows the wear in the shaft and baseplate of the 009 if these are worn they will produce a flat spot. also look at the linkages on your carb it could also be the source of your flat spot
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me
thanx barls.
Will have to look at that when i get a dissy. I haven't got it yet, but have heard of them having flat spots at low revs compared to say ur stock vacuum advance dissy. Was planning on buying an 009, but the fella sold it so am in the market for any dissy that will do the trick, whether it be 009 or stock. I just want something thats gonna replace the crack pot i got lol for a cheap price.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
Ive used 009s for ages never had any probs, Yep first check the wear in the dissy shaft
But i would say the probs in yr carby you need to have it checked out
Chris,
If you come accross an 034 dizzy, grab it. They are exactly the same as an 009 but with vac advance too. The best of both worlds, advance curve is exactly the same.
Also, check butterfly valve in bottom of carby, I've heard that some later models have a hole in them to make motor run leaner to control emissions.
Matt.
Chris,
Along with what everyone else has said, a 009 and 30 Pict play better together than a 009 and 34 Pict.
I did not have the flat spot (I had a 009/34 Pict) but the accelerator pump was at maximum stroke. In all the horror stories and such, the 30 Pict is never really mentioned. It's all 34 Pict/009.
I bought a second hand SVDA and after fitting it up, cleaning the carb and re-adjusting it the driveability was much better.
I have a website tucked away which goes into detail about mods you can do, but first off you should take Barls and vw54's advice and make sure your carb and 009 are in really good shape and setup properly.
Ctefeh
i've played around with them ages ago and have a few still kicking around but like said the smaller the engine the better they work
just bolted straight onto a standard 1600 twinport which is very common these days is the worst of them all but it can be worked around
NEVER static time one tho
always use a strobe and set them for no more than 30* max
and let the idle timing fall where it will
reason: theyre are alot of different 009 getting around, the mexican ones and brazlian ones can vary heaps
ive seen some timed to 30 that have a static setting of 15*
so imagine if u static timed it to 8* what would happen...exacltly, flat as a deflated ego and a hothothot engine
but i got one to work as well as stock on my 71 sbug
trick is to put an 1/8" rivet thro the hole in the throttle plate, get the main jet size right and play with the accelarator pump output
-Joel
[ Edited on 19-9-2006 by DUB74L ]
Thanx big time guys, its good to have experienced peoples to turn to. Probably most likely jsut a matter of good tuning, and good timing, and then they should be able to dance nicely then (dissy and carby).
Seeing the 009 isn't coming no more... will c what i can get. U guys wouldn't have a cheap working, complete spare at all? whether it be an 034... 009 or bosch model 113-905-205 K, or VW 113-905-205 L?
[ Edited on 19/9/2006 by bajachris88 ]
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
Really should have a 009 graphed to suit your engine. I have been told by the ignition shop that does them for me that a 009 out of the box has a curve suited to a stationary engine!! They are never the same either... well some of them must be as they sold so many, but they do need graphing to suit (alter springs). They will set the total advance and tell you where to set it static...
I use performance ignitions in Nunawading (Vic)
andrew
Every Formula vee 1200/1600 ever run uses a 009.
Ive never encountered this "dreaded flat spot" using them.
I have run maximum advances ranging from 24 degrees @ 3000rpm up to 32 degrees
@3000rpm with the same advance curve and never noticed any difference in throttle response when driving it (in and out of pits, not just racing) apart from making the engine slightly "doughy" off idle and the occasional carby spit when starting with the very retarded timing. I take the hairpin at Symmons plains in 3rd gear at around 60kph and the thing just motors away regardless of the timing.
I tend to think most of these flat spot woes are a combination of different dramas as just about every other engine in the world uses mechanical and vac advance together happily.
VW's are just not that special.
As stated before, set the timing running above 3 grand between 30 and 32 degrees. AFTER that, you can check your static or idle timing and set to there if necessary.
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
