Well another one to beat me, buggy goes along fine (well except for a bit of rough stuff when accelerating) then starts to chug and cough then she no go, only way to start it again is to dump a cap full of petrol down the carby, then its start first go and runs like a champ again for ages (say 10 / 20 klicks) then there it goes again, or more to the point stops again. Have cleaned out the carby bowl as it had what appeared to be some tiny almost microscopic flakes of paint in it, looks like I'll have to put a filter between the pump and the carby, any clues for the clueless boys and girls?
I dream of a day when a chicken can cross a road without being asked for it's motive!
The filter will definately help down the track! But in the meantime, it could be a blocked jet... Hows your mixture? (pull out a plug and check the colour) perhaps spray some carby cleaner into the carb's throat while you're idling to clean out any gunk.. and chuck in a bottle of Spitfire (or similar?)
good luck...
...and Robert's ya father's brother...
fit a filter. simple.
may need to check the carb to make sure its clean, and also the mesh at the bottom of the tank or clean the tank out.
best place for the filter is in between the tunnel and the steel engine fuel line. Best not to put a plastic line between the pump and carb as its under pressure...
It could be something simple like the filter screen in the bottom of the tank getting blocked up...
dirt etc sucked into the screen gradually...
best to undo the pipe off the bottom of the tank and discard the screen....
add a normal plastic fuel filter under the tank before it goes into the pipe....
then I'd fit another filter at the other end of the pipe...
some fuel pumps also have filter screens in them....
so check out Your fuel pump too....
sounds like your engine is running out of fuel....
If the engine won't start when you keep pressing down on the accelerator , which activates the accelerator pump
means there is no fuel in the carby bowl....
Best of Luck
Lee
http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
I don't pretend to have any real VW experience, but I would check that the carb needle/seat hasn't become grooved and therefore jamming. This happened on and old motorbike I had and drove me to distraction until my dad suggested replacing this.
A POSSE AD ESSE.
I live in my own little world, but it's okay, they know me here.
Ok, thanks for the tips fellas, bit more info from me though would have helped. First its a buggy with a special purpose made tank, no filter in the tank but I have fitted a filter imediately after the line exits the tank, one of those glass ones with the cartridge filter inside.
The fuel lines are rubber inside a stainless mesh sleeve, the line where it fits onto the fuel pump seems a little loose as in I can twist it on the pipe fairly easily when the clamp is done up but I can't pull it off the pipe and it's not leaking. Took it for another run this arvo and it went fine untill about 3 k's from home and then started playing up worse than ever, stoped on me about 4 times after I noticed the original rough running come back, so next time I managed to get it going again and then choked off the top of the carby with my hand a cupla times, now it's running better than it has for ages but won't idle, spose I can just idle it up a bit and hope that fixes all.
Thanks again.
I dream of a day when a chicken can cross a road without being asked for it's motive!
Worn bushes on the throttle shaft or actuator?
A POSSE AD ESSE.
I live in my own little world, but it's okay, they know me here.
Just replace the fuel filter, or at least look to see if it's full of crap. Mine was. it was a 5 minute fix after lots of screwing around with everything else...
"Tell him 'We've already got one'"
hows the fuel pump itself?
sounds like it might be dying
i had one that did a similar thing
would go fine for a while, stop have a dummy spit then start working again
stupid brazillian piece of crap
-Joel
If the $2 tune up made it go better, do it again, with a rag on top. This may clear the crap in the carb. As others suggested check the fuel pump flow, then blow all the jets out in the carb. I had a bit of crap rattling around in a type 3 carb that eluded me for ages, blew it all out and fixed it up.
luck
kkk
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I know of people replacing the fuel pump push rod and fitting the incorrect size back in !!! It would start and then nothing after a few mins!!!
Da Time For The Aircooled Revolution Is Upon US.
Brothers & Sisters Lets Hit The Streets, Roll As One. And Feel The Power Of The Aircooled Storm.
Worn bushes on the throttle shaft or actuator? So Mick, how do I check that, cant find anything about that in my little book of magic.
Matt, according to my book the pushrod for the fuel pump ios adjusted by altering the thickness of the gasket under the "intermediate flange" am I missing sumthn here?
Thanks heaps for the tips fellas.
I dream of a day when a chicken can cross a road without being asked for it's motive!
Why would you replace the fuel pump push rod?? They never wear!! Only difference is alt and gen lengths, and the alt length in a gen pump will hardly pump any fuel, and the gen one in an alt pump will damage the pump most likely.
If you have not changed the pump, it may be worn, but you need to do some testing when it gets to the stage where it wont run.
Once its hot and wont start, take the fuel line off the carby and put it in a bottle, see if the pump is pumping fuel. If it is then look at the carb. If it just wont idle when hot, then your idle jet may be blocked, or elec idle jet may be faulty or not have power.
If it wont run at all, pop the top off the carb and see if there is fuel in the float bowl, if not, check/change the needle and seat which regulates fuel flow into the bowl.
good luck with it
Lots of good info there...
I thought of the needle and seat, but it usually works the opposite way... too much fuel....
Electrical problem...
check the wire on Your fuel cutoff switch [solenoid] on Your carby...
as this will stop Your car from idling...
make sure the connection is tight and clean...
it could be making/breaking contact as you drive...
the solenoid could be worn out...
but again, usually they just allow fuel to flow all the time...
if its loose in the carby, then its not earthing all the time...
again... on/off/on.....etc..
Fuel pump - the bakelite base the fuel pump sits on...
these are different thicknesses and the rods are different lengths [as someone else noted] and mixing these up,
could case a fuel problem, but the engine would probably run out of fuel around the same time/mileage....
Maybe Your carby just wants a good clean out...
certainly sounds like something blocking the idle jet...
so whatever it is, is probably in the carby bowl...
to make sure You don't have a hole in the fuel pump diaphram.... pull the dipstick out and smell it...
also note if it shows too much oil.... [or petrol]
if it smells like petrol and is over full.... petrol is probably leaking thru the fuel pump....
Best of Luck
Lee Noonan
http://commmunity.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
Had same trouble with my new Notch found a previous owner had put a filter by fuel tank outlet,not a smart move as was full of metal that had been there so long had made one solid lump.
if choming the carby worked it is 99% sure crap in carby and when said buggy that clinched it takeit off and strip it and blow out with comp air espiciallyall the small galleries goint to all the sets
👍👍😂🙅🥷😬🤓
Rocket wrote:Had same trouble with my new Notch found a previous owner had put a filter by fuel tank outlet,not a smart move as was full of metal that had been there so long had made one solid lump.
that is the reason I dont fit filters up that end, or especially both ends, as people servicing the vehicle change one and presume thats it.
I have found numerous filters up the front of VW's and been surprised they flowed anything.
I always fit them underneath between the tunnel and the engine.
Of course if you service your own and you know they are there then fit as many as you like. One is sufficient I find though...
Well looks like I beat the bastard, mind you I spat the dummy and tried the lot, thanks for all the tips blokes, only trouble now is I think I may have detuned (?) the carby so I'm working on getting it back in shape, starting on the auto choke, hope thats the only bit I need to tackle.
Hope you all get good things
don
I dream of a day when a chicken can cross a road without being asked for it's motive!
xornge666x wrote:Rocket wrote:Had same trouble with my new Notch found a previous owner had put a filter by fuel tank outlet,not a smart move as was full of metal that had been there so long had made one solid lump.
that is the reason I dont fit filters up that end, or especially both ends, as people servicing the vehicle change one and presume thats it.
I have found numerous filters up the front of VW's and been surprised they flowed anything.
I always fit them underneath between the tunnel and the engine.
Of course if you service your own and you know they are there then fit as many as you like. One is sufficient I find though...
I find it hard to condone fuel filters on the pressurised side of the pump as they pose an unnnessesary fire risk...
Realistically, a filter between the pump and the carburetter isnt going to achieve too much the way I see it.
The only thing you change by putting the filter after the pump is that all that crap that's bypassed your fuel tank strainer and previously collected in the filter will now instead be running straight into your fuel pump. The crap doesnt go away just cos you move the filter... it just collects further down the line, and eventually will still clog up your pump, which is more effort to fix than it is to simply replace a $4 inline fuel filter under your tank.
👎
So stop being lazy sods and put the filter where it belongs! :P
As far as I'm aware VW's have a filter or strainer integral to the pump anyway, so you are not going to get shit in the carbs from the tank whatever the case (correct me if Im wrong about the pump having filtration), making the use of a filter on the pressurised side superfluous anyway...
🙂
Oh and Rocket just a word of advice... the filters are meant to be replaced fairly frequently.. every couple of years or when they get contaminated. If the bits of shit had been there long enuff to solidify then it was due for a change anyway... and I shudder to think how old and brittle the fuel lines were! :duh
1976 Kombi Trakka camper, "Buttercup"... driver.
1976 Beluxe Microbus, "Saphir"... resto.
1974 Kombi panelvan, "George"... shed.
1974 Superbug, "Schmeetle"... resto.
[img]http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b366/cWell Schmoburger trying to make up my mind now bout the position of the filters, I added a filter, now I have one between the tank and the pump and another between the pump and the carb, both are the glass type so not throw aways as I reckon they should be better qual than the throw aways, based on absolutely no information at all other than price and they look pretty, the whole fuel line from tank to carb would be no longer than half a meter long but the first filter was definatly catching shit outa the tank as I could plainly see it in the glass section of the filter and it was much finer than the stuff I got out of the carb so figured that for some reason the junk came from the pump but a fella tells me now that it could have been crystals that form in stale fuel. (the bug hadn't been used over winter hardly at all. So do you reckon I could be creating another prob with the second filter?
I dream of a day when a chicken can cross a road without being asked for it's motive!
donn wrote:Well Schmoburger trying to make up my mind now bout the position of the filters, I added a filter, now I have one between the tank and the pump and another between the pump and the carb, both are the glass type so not throw aways as I reckon they should be better qual than the throw aways, based on absolutely no information at all other than price and they look pretty, the whole fuel line from tank to carb would be no longer than half a meter long but the first filter was definatly catching shit outa the tank as I could plainly see it in the glass section of the filter and it was much finer than the stuff I got out of the carb so figured that for some reason the junk came from the pump but a fella tells me now that it could have been crystals that form in stale fuel. (the bug hadn't been used over winter hardly at all. So do you reckon I could be creating another prob with the second filter?
Short answer is yes... maybe not so much so as with a plastic filter in the engine bay on the pressurised side(which is a no-no), but I can still see there being issues... for instance Ive even had expensive glass filters start to leak profusely... one in a Kombi and one in a Corrolla... the one in the Corrolla pissed out fuel straight out of the box under pressure. Needless to say, loose juice in the engine bay is bad in any car, and a recipe for disaster in an aircooled one...
It really isnt worth the risk as it provides no benefit. if crap is removed before it gets to the pump then it ceases to be an issue as it wont reach the carbs anyway, and it also doesnt bugger up your pump.
👍
If the crap bunged up your filter under the tank and made your engine run like shit it means it was doing its job...
😉
My advice is get the filter out of the engine bay and off the pressurised length of hose, and simly leave the one under the tank. keep the one you took off as a spare in case any residual crap is left in the tank which clogs the new filter... better still get the tAnk flushed out and put some new fuel in it every month if it is gonna be sitting for a while...
😎
Cheers!
1976 Kombi Trakka camper, "Buttercup"... driver.
1976 Beluxe Microbus, "Saphir"... resto.
1974 Kombi panelvan, "George"... shed.
1974 Superbug, "Schmeetle"... resto.
[img]http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b366/cFirst let me say that the following is not an argument or even an opinion, as if you havn't been able to figure out yet what I realy know about this stuff you could chisel onto the head of a pin with a jackhammer, so here goes.
It is not possible for me to remove any of the fuel filters from the engine bay as the tank is mounted above the rear axle, thats why the fuel line is so short.
In my book of magic it states the fuel pump presure should be 3.5 p.s.i. at 3400 revs, the filter is rated for use at no more than 10-p.s.i. would the fuel pump after years of use deliver at a lower presure than when new and wouldn't there be a fair margin for safety on the filter spec as stated?, if my reasoning is correct then there is bugger all chance of the fuel filter not being able to manage the pressure from the pump.
Where did the garbage in the carb come from when the filter at the tank captured a fair bit of much finer material, hopefully it's not something breaking down inside the pump.
Has anyone ever heard of this crystalised fuel thingy?
Damn you Schmoburger now you have me realy worried as I am planing a long trip in the bugeye soon and I don't want to only get half way there and then no go bugeye.
You see most of my extensive knowledge is just me thinking that all this sounds logical, but then maybe my logic is flawed somewhat.
I dream of a day when a chicken can cross a road without being asked for it's motive!
Schmoburger wrote:xornge666x wrote:Rocket wrote:Had same trouble with my new Notch found a previous owner had put a filter by fuel tank outlet,not a smart move as was full of metal that had been there so long had made one solid lump.
that is the reason I dont fit filters up that end, or especially both ends, as people servicing the vehicle change one and presume thats it.
I have found numerous filters up the front of VW's and been surprised they flowed anything.
I always fit them underneath between the tunnel and the engine.
Of course if you service your own and you know they are there then fit as many as you like. One is sufficient I find though...
I find it hard to condone fuel filters on the pressurised side of the pump as they pose an unnnessesary fire risk...
Realistically, a filter between the pump and the carburetter isnt going to achieve too much the way I see it.
The only thing you change by putting the filter after the pump is that all that crap that's bypassed your fuel tank strainer and previously collected in the filter will now instead be running straight into your fuel pump. The crap doesnt go away just cos you move the filter... it just collects further down the line, and eventually will still clog up your pump, which is more effort to fix than it is to simply replace a $4 inline fuel filter under your tank.
👎
So stop being lazy sods and put the filter where it belongs! :P
As far as I'm aware VW's have a filter or strainer integral to the pump anyway, so you are not going to get shit in the carbs from the tank whatever the case (correct me if Im wrong about the pump having filtration), making the use of a filter on the pressurised side superfluous anyway...
🙂
Oh and Rocket just a word of advice... the filters are meant to be replaced fairly frequently.. every couple of years or when they get contaminated. If the bits of shit had been there long enuff to solidify then it was due for a change anyway... and I shudder to think how old and brittle the fuel lines were! :duh
I most certainly do not condone fitting a filter on the pressure side of the pump. Pretty sure I already said that in this thread.
On a bus, go for it, under the tank is ideal in the line that goes down to the pump.
On a beetle, the line up the front ends up being way too long to get a filter in their and get the line back around into the steel fuel line into the tunnel. I seen a fuel line crimp over from the weight of a full filter on slightly worn line up the front.
The outlet from the rear of the tunnel to the engine steel line sits straight, which is ideal, and easily replaced when servicing the car (adj clutch/valves).
I have serviced many beetles, and always removed engine bay filters and replaced the woven line, and fitted the filter underneath.
This was however with customers who had me regularly service their cars.
