After many months of being off the road, my fasty was finally running again, until tonight. I think the problem I have been having was the carbs. I have tried everything, rebuild kits and several clean outs.
Anyway, she's been good for the last couple of days, but today in the ~38C heat we had in Melbourne she was struggling. I strongly suspect she overheated. Anyway, I want to have the carbs rebuilt by an expert. Once rebuilt and installed I want to have them professionally set up so they are not running rich or lean.
So I am looking for recommendations on a good carb repairer and a mechanic who can set up and jet carbs properly.
Stock type 3 twin carbs.
SE Suburbs of Melbourne. Don't mind travelling within reason.
Ain't nothin' like the wind in your hair.
It may be worth considering new standard carbs, if available. This may be not more expensive than a professional overhaul? We bought 2 new Brazilian Solex's from VolksHome in Thomastonw severalyears ago, and once jetted properly (this took a few goes & it ended up different to the standrad jetting they solved most of the type 3 carby woes. (They came set up very differently from standard type 3 jetting but were fine otherwise.) Don't know if you can still get them...
I have looked at this option. Each carb costs about twice as much as a professional rebuild. I have been quoted ~$350ea for new carbs. From what I have heard, the new ones made these days are of poorer quality than the originals. I'll try a rebuild first, if that doesn't give good results, then I'll rethink buying new ones.
Ain't nothin' like the wind in your hair.
I used South Eastern Carburettors for years.
Always good service and a quality job.
South Eastern Carburettors
29 Foster St Dandenong 3175
(03) 9794 9259
They can supply the kits, or you can get them from BME in Dandenong usually... 9791 1822
Thornbury Carburettors are also good, but I only went to them for weber and dellorto parts due to distance.
[ Edited on 17-1-2007 by xornge666x ]
I dont really know how the heat affected the carbs that much though, might be worth checking pump volume/pressure when hot, as well as points/condensor etc too if you havent already.
It's not that the heat has effected the carbs, more the other way around. As I have had so much trouble with the carbs recently I was concerned that they may be running lean, contributing to overheating.
Once I know the carbs are good, I will check out all the other factors like timing.
Did anybody else in Melbourne have problems with their dub overheating the other day?
Ain't nothin' like the wind in your hair.
Stephen, try these guys.
Wilson Carb Service Pty Ltd
16 - 18 Marshall Road
Airport West
03 9330 3216
Recomended to me by a Porsche specialist to rebuild the throttle bodies on my 2.4 (6 intotal) Did an excellent job.
Dunno if they will tune too. Probably best to do this on a dyno if you can mate. Maybe VW Performance Centre
could help.
Any VW aircooler will struggle in the conditions we had on Tuesday. Specially in stop start. Hows the sealing on your motor, timing?? too much retard and they will heat. Thats an auto too isint it?? Maybe slip it into Neutral at the lights.
Wack on a oil filter and remote cooler to
a) obviosly cool the oil
b) but also to provide more oil capacity in the system.
[ Edited on 18-1-2007 by Grey 57 ]
Vapour lock?
if they have little throttle shaft play and they have been apart and cleaned, then a good tune should do it.
How mechanical are you?
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Thanks Dean. Have already taken them to a place just around the corner from home. He will rebuild them, set idle speed, synchronise and has an exhaust analyser to make sure they're running right.
Type 3s don't have sealed engine bays, but my bellows and air intake are good.
I thought it was too much advance that caused overheating, not retard? Yep, she's and auto. Always slip into auto at the lights, otherwise she doesn't idle very well.
I'm fairly mechanical and thought I'd done a good job on the carbs, but there are some things you just cann't learn from books.
Ain't nothin' like the wind in your hair.
If he has the shmicko snap on timing light that can set the advance degrees on the gun, get him to find TDC then set your timing mark on the front pulley for correct full advance. That way you can static time it to the correct 32 deg full advance (no vacuum, plugged line) by the paint dot on the pulley. The couple of type threes I have had have had a range of marks that never ended up being ok when done by the above method. Also check the dizzy is advancing properly.
I bought a fastie that had done the engine because it was set far too advanced but the marks said it was ok.
kkk
This disclaimer does not reflect the thoughts or opinions of either myself, my company, my friends, or my dog: don't quote me on that; don't quote me on anything; this disclaimer is subject to change without notice; text is slightly enlarged to show detail; resemblance to actual persons, living or dead, is unintentional and coincidental; dry clean only; do not bend, fold, or mutilate; anchovies or jalapenos added to this disclaimer upon request; your mileage may vary; no substitutions are allowed; for a limited time only while supplies last; offer void where prohibited; this disclaimer is provided "as is" without any warranties expressed or implied
Thanks KKK, I will ask if he can do this. I have always just done it according to the marks on the fan. May explain the overheating/
Ain't nothin' like the wind in your hair.