Engine - which way should I go

MattY-64 · 2007-01-10T02:59:37+00:00

I am very close to finishing of my bug, however I have reached a wall, the engine. Currently I have a 1200 40hp motor which i am looking to rebuild and turbo. However I am getting slack and kinda want to get this project done and in the bag so that I can get some stuff finished off around the house and get the missus off my back. So far I figure that I Have three options: Type 1, Type 4 or a 'Subi or Rotary conversion' I am trying to work out the bang for buck here and as such I have been trolling the forum engine sales and ofcourse ebay for anything that looks reasonable that doesn't require me to sell the house to do up. So far I have seen a few type 4 engines out of kombi campers and the such. I figure that I can swap the cooling tin over to a sharp built, however I am wondering with this change do I have to perform any modifications to the inside of the engine bay. I currently have all rubbers in and it is painted up, so I don't won't the have to rip this all out and start hacking up the metal work. Does a type 4 match up to a 12V converted 1200 trans and box? or is an adaptor plate required? I understand that the box is probably not going to take the power upgrade but i plan to upgrade it done the track, when i get some more funds together. Type 1 engines - what am i looking at here, I know that i really don't want to go for anything below a 1600 dp but 0-1000 bucks doesn't really get you much here, i.e. nothing that doesn't require an overhaul of some kind. However if i can get to some wreckers etc I could probably get it going for under 2K. Sub and rotary conversions - I understand that the rotary is the only engine that will fit without changing the body, however I still need to mount a radiator and i understand that it will not work efficently mounted under the rear seat over the trans & box, where i planned. And it is more than likely that the box wouldn't handle the power anyways so i don't think that this is going to be a good option for the imediate time. I was thinking of going type 1 1600dp with mega squirt and turbo setup - i have heard good things about these setups. I have a very small snail turbo and i am pretty sure the mega squire is around 350 from the state unassembled. Anyways just seeking some advice i suppose and if anyone has an engine sitting around collecting dust, my ears are open.... Cheers Matt.

Learner Officially Full-On Dubber

238 posts · joined Jul 2006 · 8 Mar 2007, 11:27 am

#577600

what's the main diff between rotary and suba engines? and for bajas isn't it possible to lift the gearbox as well as the engine for more clearance?

BiX Veteran Volks Folk

2,499 posts · joined Sep 2002 · 8 Mar 2007, 11:57 am

#577605

Matty, i have just gone through the same process over the last few years. I started with a Std 1600 twin port in a super. It gets along ok. Then i went to a 1776 with twin 40 dells w100 cam and some head work. Was a very nice tourqie motor. With some decent suspension went pretty well on the track and was easy to drive (suprised alot of ppl!!). That cost me about 3k as a rebuild (including carbs). I flogged that motor and it is almost dead.

So now iam putting in a 2000cc motor, the car will now be track only (well pretty much)... that motor is over 10k....... it would be alot cheaper and probably easier to go a subi conversion, but i have the ulitmate goal of running the car as PRC car, which means the engine has to be based on std (eg its a mag case rather than allloy....)

If it was for hillclimb and track work only i would go the subi, and do it properly....

mmm maybe i should get another car and subi it......

I have no sympathy for my car, only the wallet that pays for it!
Go hard or go home!!!!

VWCOOL 23 Windows of Awesome

5,158 posts · joined Jun 2003 · 8 Mar 2007, 9:42 pm

#577662

THUDKNUCKLE wrote:yep that is correct you ned the whole cluster and dash with everything plugged inand working 🙂 otherwise the engine has trouble recongnising all the nessercary information and therefore the computer switches to limp mode ,, which is about 25% power and will damge the eninge if run extensivley in this manor ( as told by mr rotaries) limp mode is desinged purley to get you home from an emergancy in the middle of nowhere incase of an engine or eletrical problem

Bull. It's possible to strip/re-do the donor car's wiring to retain only the circuits required to run the engine with the original ECU. Costs vary, with later-model stuff costing more due to the need to delete or re-config vehicle security systems etc. And limp mode doesn't do any damage... it's just not much fun...

Pay your debts, CxxT

MattY-64 Seriously Crusin Dubber

189 posts · joined Oct 2004 · 9 Mar 2007, 12:32 pm

#577729

Looks like I will be going the the 1600tp for now. Might have one lined up but will see what happens.

Thanks for all the information though it has been a very good read. Once I get a 1600tp, I will look at going turbo and EFI, but that will be a bit before that happens, might do turbo straight up though as I have a small snail laying around which should give it some low down get up and go. But then I have to figure out draw or blow carbi setup and there is quite a bit of information around on that.

Baby steps, as with everything in life.

Matt.

THUDKNUCKLE Officially Full-On Dubber

224 posts · joined Apr 2005 · 9 Mar 2007, 1:10 pm

#577733

according to tony from mr rotaries and phil from phil rotaries you just dont use the stock harness and ecu becouse they say its not possible , sure anything is possible but i had everythign cut from the original harness rdy to go in bar t wires which had me stumped (ok me 3 days to sort out all the wiring i thought i didnt need) spoke to both e tony and phil and they both garanteed me that it would not work and the only way to go was either running the full dash cos the stock ecu gets measurments form the instument clust wherether it be hidden below the rear seat or in the dash and in use it was needed. as for limp mode a fella from some other shop that i spoke to while tring to find the cheapest way around the eletrical problem said that it wasnt good for the engine to continually run in limp mode .

thats the info i gathererd and i certainly wasnt happy about it cos i was on a small budget at the time( and wanted to keep the stock gear) but thats the info i went by from those fellas

Love is a Rotary baja bug
Just be carefull 🥷,, something dangerous is lurkin in My garage ready to burst out in a fit of Big Hp, high boost baja Rage .

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