Ok trying to drain my gearbox so I can change the oil.
Problem:
I can not undo the drain plug.
Anyone got any tips to get this damn thing out?
Any help would be great. 🙁
Cheers,
Richard
Use your stronger arm...?
they are tight so use a breaker bar and a length of pipe for extra leverage
[ Edited on 31-3-2007 by VWCOOL ]
Pay your debts, CxxT
Wot he said.I've just done mine today....took a LOT of effort and a breaker bar.
tssnq.com.au
Remember when replacing it, as the actress said to the bishop, "Tight, but not too tight."
We use a 17(I think?)mm giant Allen key with a decent length of iron pipe on it (1' if I've done it up; 3' if a garage last did it).
Recommend removing the FILLER plug BEFORE draining the oil. Had a nasty moment once, when I found a Filler plug I could not remove....!!
I think the plugs have a slight tapered thread so do not want to be done up King Kong fashion, and should 'self-seal'. The drain plug should have an integral magnet. The oil should be changed every 24 000km/15 000miles for beetles -- OR every 2 years MAX. regardless of mileage. Use 80W-90 (or higher visc. if needed) GL-5/GL-4 gear oil. IGNORE the GL-4 vs. GL-5 debate: it's nonsense. [GL-5 gives Much Better EP protection, which is the vital point; and provided it's changed regularly will not affect metals any more than a GL-4 will...]
PS. Drain while warm/hot if possible. Check you have the ability/equipment to fill from the trans side plug - I've found the 1L bottles with a plastic tube impossible to "work" for me in that small space, so we use a "Diff. Syringe": looks a bit like a giant bicycle pump. Some workshops use a pump-up arrangement while car on hoist. Don't overfill!!! -- might blow a seal. (Sorry if you know all this but others may not.)
[ Edited on 1-4-2007 by ACE_76 ]
what they all said, but brace your self for the smell,esp if you havent changed it in a while, mmmmmmm yummy
nutter is right. I don't like the stink of gear box oul.
Hi ,
I'm confused 2 drains 2 refill holes common oil for both diff and gearbox dont overfill ,I know this must be as simple as or incredibly easy to stuff up.
The total refill diff and gearbox is (beetle manual) 3 lt -right ? fill equal ammounts in each hole ? (after replacing the drain plugs duuurrr) .
Or have I totaly missed the plot ?--and how is it possible to overfill ? not being smart here I know it can be done, I just want to know how-- so I don't do it,
:beer
Cheers , Al .
this is for swing-arm gearboxes, not sure about others.
the correct fill level is where the oil level is just below the fill hole (on the side of the gearbox) with the car on a level surface.
put the oil in the one hole, it will move throughout the gearbox.
Al, the old non-sycro-1st "split type" boxes fitted to 36hp beetles I think had two drain plugs (remove both to drain), not sure of what happened after that. But they all had ONE filler plug I thought??? Could have been or RHS for those early boxes?, but later is on Left (Passenger's) side, half way up. If you have 2 plugs side by side on L they may cover lock-screws on earlier boxes? Sorry haven't looked at a 36/40 hp box for a while.
It is possible to over fill if you keep shoving the oil in with the pump/syringe wahtever, and then whack the plug in, as it is cold & thick. I like to fill till it just oozes out, wait a few miniutes till no more dribble (ie. is then level with bottom of filler hole), then put the plug back. I guess the car should be 'reasonably' level during this time. I think I saw 3L for a 'dry-fill' somewhere, not sure. 2.5L is the wet-fill volume, but go by the level-with-plughole idea - it's easier.
Ok.
So I got her undone today.
Had to buy a new Hex key and a bit of levering and yes, she out.
My manual says 2.5L of oil and it should be level when the oil is at the bottom of the filling hole.
Thanks for all you help.
The gearbox will go back in the car on Friday and I’ll fill it then.
Sprayed it a nice matt black so looks nice and pretty.
Friday will also be the day I fit my new Rear disc which I got from Rodney Penrose.
And if all goes well might even test fit the subie engine for size. 😀
It’s getting quite exciting, it all coming into place.
Cheers,
Richard
ACE_76 wrote:Al, the old non-sycro-1st "split type" boxes fitted to 36hp beetles I think had two drain plugs (remove both to drain), not sure of what happened after that. But they all had ONE filler plug I thought??? Could have been or RHS for those early boxes?, but later is on Left (Passenger's) side, half way up. If you have 2 plugs side by side on L they may cover lock-screws on earlier boxes? Sorry haven't looked at a 36/40 hp box for a while.
It is possible to over fill if you keep shoving the oil in with the pump/syringe wahtever, and then whack the plug in, as it is cold & thick. I like to fill till it just oozes out, wait a few miniutes till no more dribble (ie. is then level with bottom of filler hole), then put the plug back. I guess the car should be 'reasonably' level during this time. I think I saw 3L for a 'dry-fill' somewhere, not sure. 2.5L is the wet-fill volume, but go by the level-with-plughole idea - it's easier.
Thanks for that,Yup-- just got under one filler plug--drivers side , was going from the manual---faaaaaaaarrrrrrgh,
Cheers ,
:beer
Al .
with the baja its not so hard to fill the box up as its got more room under it, i usually get a couple of 1 litre bottles and i have a long funnel from super cheap and if u hold it the right way (wear an old t shirt) u can do it without taking wheels off or even jacking up the car 🙂
ive only ever drained the oil from the lower plug. filled it up yesterday with a tube of nulon additive
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
