Apologies to anyone who get the $hits with so many pictures - I use them to A) show the owner what work goes into their car, B) provide some 'memories' to remind me of all the work done, and C) to show peopl how much time goes into a thorough resto.
So that said, some more pics include; rear corner cut out with another dodgy repair:
Yet another hole to fill!
Took a while to bend this piece into shape, a few pie cuts were needed to help form the curves required.
Tacked in place (inside view):
Outside view:
Ben was back this arvo to scrape some of the tar backed sound deadener off the floor...hopefully more progress this week:
Great pics. What is the name of that colour (I have a square the same colour but painted in that poo brown colour that i am going to eventually get on the road).
- Adam
If you can't fix it with a hammer,
you have an electrical problem....
I have no idea - it was originally white so I am not sure if this a standard vw colour or not - someone has mentioned maybe beryl green?
I personally don't like the existing colour, however colour is such a personal taste....what looks awesome to one person looks hideous to the next! Gotta go with what you like yourself I guess.
PS yeah the poo brown is not the coolest of colours around 😁
Dasdubber wrote:I have no idea - it was originally white so I am not sure if this a standard vw colour or not - someone has mentioned maybe beryl green?
I personally don't like the existing colour, however colour is such a personal taste....what looks awesome to one person looks hideous to the next! Gotta go with what you like yourself I guess.
PS yeah the poo brown is not the coolest of colours around 😁
There is a badge stamped with "turquoise" on it. It is the same year as my notch but my notch doesnt have the same badge (located above spare wheel well). Which is why I am asking. Someone painted the poo brown colour not long after all the bodgy rust/smash repairs.
Hoping to undo the damage after the beast gets registered. (and I learn to weld!!).
- Adam
If you can't fix it with a hammer,
you have an electrical problem....
mountainbug wrote:Alan
What kind of welder are you using to carry out these rust repairs. As I have similar repairs to do to my ride
Thanks
Johno
Just a migmate 120 (with gas) - at times I could do with something more powerful (eg. 180) but it suffices for most panel repairs.
surfncam wrote:Quality work, Ben must be sleeping sound at night knowing and seeing this taking place.
BTW who's bug was that the other day doing laps?
My old ragtop.....have had it temporarily (will be gone on saturday so I won't upset anyone in the neighbourhood anymore with the noise!). As loud as it is, I only ever accelerate to 50km/h so as to not go over the speed limit. I am careful to never endanger pedestrians (esp kids who can dash out without warning).
surfncam wrote:BTW who's bug was that the other day doing laps?
Glad to see I'm providing you with some entertainment for the week !!!
I hope I have some rubber left !
[ Edited on 23-7-07 by Craig Torrens ]
Lucky there is no line lock Craig, otherwise you'd be in trouble. 😉
Just kidding, even though it was my old car I was more than careful as I really didn't want to have to pay for or have to do any repairs that could have been my fault! By the way Cam only lives two streets away, hence why he could hear the car - don't stress 😉
No complaints from me on the number of pics, the more the merrier! 🙂
Great work you're doing. It's keeping me focused on my Squareback resto.
I was suprised when I read you'd done a fixed quote, so many restorers have been burnt with fixed quotes. You just never know what lurks beneath.
Keep up the good work, it's good to see such a through job being done.
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
Although this sort of detailing wasn't necessarily part of the brief, as many of you know from my work with the ragtop, when I start something I have to do it properly. Suspension detailing has commenced so once the body is painted, the undercarriage will not detract from its new shiny paint!
Pre-crud removal:
Amazing how much crap sticks to every nook and cranny! Can't wait to see this notch in colour!
Flat scraper, screwdriver, wire brush and dremel with wire wheel....good fun 😉
No pics but this arvo after dyno day I knocked the welds down the two major repair sections on the rear guard....also cut, patched and welded the small piece in between the other two. Hopefully tomorrow if I don't piss the neighbours off too much I'll try and finish grinding the welds back and then body work can start.
Massive massive thank to dumone (Daimo) for a rear window donor section - Haven't grafted it in yet but will (of course) upload pics throughout the process.
Thanks Peter - much appreciated. At the risk of sounding like a knob, I do hope my passion and enjoyment of working on vw's is reflected by the work I do. I would never say it is the best work going around, however I do pride myself on attention to detail. I will be doing more of this resto work for people as time goes by, so if anyone reading this is serious about having their vw undergo a quality resto and understand the time and hence the cost involved in performing work such detailed work, drop me a u2u.
Back to your question now my plug is finished, the rectangle section was on the same rear guard the previous rust repair was conducted on - it is the mounting flange that mates to the body (fender beading). The threaded holes either side of the repair are where the fender bolts attach.
Had a little time today to keep the notch resto ticking over. Thanks again to Daimo (dumone) for the rear window donor section - I should only need to patch a few bits on the corners where the donor section wasn't long enough. But this has been a huge help and Ben will be glad to know his rear window will have all fresh metal in place! I have drilled the spots welds out and separated the double skin.
The original rusty section with spot welds ground out. Initially I used the air powered cut off wheel to grind the outer skin off, however I found the die grinder with tungsten carbide cutting bit worked much better and gave greater control.
After cutting the donor section to shape and overlaying it, then marking the cut line, I put the angle grinder to work with thin cutting wheel. I ran out of time to weld the new section in, however I've hit the exposed areas with rust converter and will paint it all (just in a rust preventative paint) before the new section goes in!
This disclaimer does not reflect the thoughts or opinions of either myself, my company, my friends, or my dog: don't quote me on that; don't quote me on anything; this disclaimer is subject to change without notice; text is slightly enlarged to show detail; resemblance to actual persons, living or dead, is unintentional and coincidental; dry clean only; do not bend, fold, or mutilate; anchovies or jalapenos added to this disclaimer upon request; your mileage may vary; no substitutions are allowed; for a limited time only while supplies last; offer void where prohibited; this disclaimer is provided "as is" without any warranties expressed or implied
Love to see all the pics. We have a 71 Fasty here that one day will need a resto similar to this. Great to see your attention to detail and fantastic that you put up so many pics for our future reference.
Just a quick update - coat of rust preventative paint before the new section is welded in (hopefully tomorrow). As Ben hasn't decided on a final colour yet, I couldn't spray this section in body colour before welding starts. Anyway, the black will look good through the vents and will last a lifetime!
It is just simply gloss black kill rust paint. I first used a wire brush wheel on the angle grinder to knock back as much surface rust as possible, then used rust converter as per the instructions followed by the the killrust paint.
Spent a couple of hours this arvo fine tuning the decklid gaps - all pretty much sorted now (had to cut off a few spot welds and then reweld to get it spot on).
Can't wait for welding to finish so I can get stuck into the panel work! It should progress fairly fast after that.
