Matt I have done a pan with in with a brush and it looked like it was powder coated. I picked mine up at:
MPA REFINISHING SUPPLIES
Unit 6 118 Southpine Road,
BRENDALE 4500
Ph: 3889 6868
and it cost about 80ish for a liter. If you do decide to spray let me know how it goes as I'd like to try than next on Charlotte's new pan
The process and preparation is more involved, however, the result is worthwhile. I did the pan on my '63, and my nasty habit of dropping tools from a great height onto the surface has not made any chips or marks yet.....couple of dents though!
Thanks guys.
I thought there was also a rust converter as part of the system, or is it all in the one coating?
I dont feel the results are anywhere good enough using a rust converter/primer !
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
68AutoBugBeetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --
Despite assurances from the rep where I bought it from that it would have more than adequate adhesion to etch primer (applied on a pan)....it did not and flaked easily.
I no longer go to that rep as I knew it had to go over bare metal but he convinced me otherwise and I paid the price.
Over bare metal with proper prep (a bit labour intensive), it is good stuff.
Al
I found that POR15 is crap 😠 I've used it on several applications, using all the prescribed methods and I still get the same end result..........flaking.
I have several other friends that have had the same problem.....................one of them is currently restoring a Chrysler Airflow and won't touch the stuff after the problems he had.
i should mention I had the pan blasted and then I just put down gloss black POR15, nothing else required. I spilled thinners on the pan and had dropped tools etc and the finish did not blemish or flake. Interesting to hear other perspectives but I'm going POR on this resto.
I used POR15 over etch primer also, and it flaked badly. I've also tried it over rusty metal after its been sanded, and it also flaked. The only time I've had success with it is when I followed the instructions to a T and used all the associated POR15 preparation products (that were equally as expensive as POR15 itself).
Other freinds of mine have also had similar issues. I've still got my tin, as it goes a long way, but I generally use Wattle kill rust black epoxy, and that seems to work well enough for me.
Silver bullet is the other product I've seen advertised recently, and it claims to be less fussy for the preparation, so it probably easy to deal with on cars that are driven, not part way through a full resto!
Good luck
Jeremy
......random gibberish for today.......
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
I have never used POR and have no intention of ever using it mainly based on the fact that any post i have ever seen on this product it has more negetive responces than positive which can't be good for anyone apart from a servere dent in your bank account for what would seem to be overpriced shit black paint.
Don't let body work get in the way of real suspension travel
I do like Killrust as a product (paint) but I am trying to find something to properly neutralise the rust before paint. The hard finish is a bonus, the high price isn't. Sand blasting only is effective where you can see, doesn't get INTO the seams. Any more suggestions?
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Going by the spiel on the white knight site "RUST GUARD EPOXY ENAMEL combines epoxy modified resins and anticorrosion additives to provide excellent durability, adhesion and abrasion resistance." It looks like its supposed to help with rust. If you use the white night primer you will have a pretty good base more spiel "White Knight Metal Primer is an anti-corrosive steel and structural primer. The combination of anti-corrosive pigments and tough resins provide a
rust-inhibiting barrier with excellent adhesion." with their
One of the things that puts me off POR is that its not UV stable, so I guess it fades in sunlight.
Hey Steve, uv unstable means it breaks down when subjected to uv. Not impossible to deal with, in boat building most epoxies have this problem, and so must be covered before too long. Generally a paint system but then another adhesion issue begins. The info on the label is fine and should give adequite protection, but it is where the paint and sandpaper doesn't reach, that is what I was hopeing the POR was going to get. At present and at Volksrestore I have used Worth rust converter pretty well everywhere, and thoroughly rust proof every cavity with a concoction of fishoil, diesel and new engine oil, 60/10/30.
I was trying to improve the rust converting stage.
Hope that all makes sense!
Cheers Matt
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
I have never heard of Silver Bullet, but I have heard of 'Rust Bullet', is this what you mean??
Rust Bullet by all reports is the way to go, with non of the prep issues that Por15 has.
Jeza wrote:I used POR15 over etch primer also, and it flaked badly. I've also tried it over rusty metal after its been sanded, and it also flaked. The only time I've had success with it is when I followed the instructions to a T and used all the associated POR15 preparation products (that were equally as expensive as POR15 itself).
Other freinds of mine have also had similar issues. I've still got my tin, as it goes a long way, but I generally use Wattle kill rust black epoxy, and that seems to work well enough for me.
Silver bullet is the other product I've seen advertised recently, and it claims to be less fussy for the preparation, so it probably easy to deal with on cars that are driven, not part way through a full resto!
Theres an industrial /marine paint co Altex coatings (Google them) ..they make an excellent product called preprime 167 or 577 ...much cheaper and very very good ..ive been using it around rusty steel boats for 8 or so years now with excellent results...there products are all 2pak (epoxy) based ...one BIG MISTAKE I SEE IS USING RUST CONVERTORS ...THEY ARE CRAP..AS THEY LEAVE A RESIDUE WHICH IF NOT REMOVED WILL STUFF UP ANY SUBSEQUENT COATING
Was advertised on the Samba for a while, and I remember someone on here talking about importing it.
Cheers
Jeremy
fastyman66 wrote:I have never heard of Silver Bullet, but I have heard of 'Rust Bullet', is this what you mean??
Rust Bullet by all reports is the way to go, with non of the prep issues that Por15 has.
Jeza wrote:I used POR15 over etch primer also, and it flaked badly. I've also tried it over rusty metal after its been sanded, and it also flaked. The only time I've had success with it is when I followed the instructions to a T and used all the associated POR15 preparation products (that were equally as expensive as POR15 itself).
Other freinds of mine have also had similar issues. I've still got my tin, as it goes a long way, but I generally use Wattle kill rust black epoxy, and that seems to work well enough for me.
Silver bullet is the other product I've seen advertised recently, and it claims to be less fussy for the preparation, so it probably easy to deal with on cars that are driven, not part way through a full resto!
Check out a product called 'Juta-coat', usually solved at marine places. We use it on our submersible pumps. Coats gray, its heavy and seems to hold well. No extensive prep work required either. Doesn't seem to flake.
Its quite thick too when applying and mixing it.
I've used por 15 on a few beetle floor pans now and have had no probs what so ever. There is more than one product in their range, the product desiged for chassis is uv sensitive but the undernieth of your car is not going to get sun light (unless youv'e rolled it).
Preparation is the key, I've used the product both on blasted and just pressure cleaned pans and had no prob. the substraight must be free of contaminates or it will de-laminate. If you don't fully blast (which is the best way) you need to use their metal contioner and remove any lose particals.
The product is a single pack moisture cure system and is as hard as nails, ideal for preventing stone chipping which leads to rust it also neutralizes and prevents rust from spreading.
Epoxy primers are great especialy when they have rust inhiting additives but not all have so make sure. They are also just a primer and do need to be top coated otherwise they will break down. There is a trick that I use with epoxy primers and that is as soon as they have tacked off you can top coat with out having to sand between coats but you need to carefull with you're timing.
The por 15 is still a harder product to damage alot harder that epoxies and I can say that with experiance.
Hi
Ive just used it on my van chasis and it was quite good just all the prep work was a bit of a pain ,and all there products before you even put on the paint are a bit pricy.Olny time will tell
Gazza
I used a lot of it on the boat during its rebuild. The engine blocks and gearboxes have stood up faily well - although in a couple of spots near the anodes its come away very slightly. I just cleaned up sheets of peeled off POR-15 out of the bilge - and I'm prepared to admit that the engine mounts and gearlevers that its peeled off may not have been properly prepared - then again, I thought I'd cleaned them down well enough (using Marine Clean, Metal Prep, etc)
I didn't use POR 15 on the two flooroans I've painted in the last few months.
