What hardware am I missing to mount body to beam?

StenGuns Veteran Volks Folk

2,147 posts · joined Mar 2004 · 23 Mar 2008, 12:23 pm

#637800

In my resto thread, I have just put the body back onto the pan,.. I'm still a little stumped as to what hardware I am missing to fix the two body points onto the front beam..
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=64212&page=3#pid637684

I'm guessing the rubber shockpads go "between" the beam and the body hard points.. But what then bolts down to the beam?.. Is it just a bolt with square/spacer washer? I have some "pan" type spacers remaining which I thought were for the fuel tank.. Maybe these are to bolt down here?..

It's no biggy as I'm sure I'll figure it out but does anyone have advice as to what goes here? Pix would be nice..

I'm thinking that this piece (which I thought was for the tank) is the one that sits in here..

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hellbugged 48's and straight cuts

5,080 posts · joined Apr 2003 · 23 Mar 2008, 12:34 pm

#637802

they're the ones, middle of second row, big rubber goes under there too👍

Craig Torrens 6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion

8,040 posts · joined Jan 2003 · 23 Mar 2008, 12:39 pm

#637803

yes thats right, you use the rectangle like washer with a rubber spacer/pad under it.

So the order is 1.Beam 2. rubber spacer (shock pad) 3. body shell 4. rubber spacer (same as beam) 5. square washer 6. high tensile bolt

StenGuns Veteran Volks Folk

2,147 posts · joined Mar 2004 · 23 Mar 2008, 1:19 pm

#637805

OK.. I didn't realise you needed two shock pads for each side.. Makes sense
Thanks Gents

VWCOOL 23 Windows of Awesome

5,158 posts · joined Jun 2003 · 23 Mar 2008, 1:21 pm

#637806

You will probably need to loosen and drop the beam an inch or three to install the underside rubber pads; can't quite see if you have already installed them

Pay your debts, CxxT

1303Steve Scirocco Rare

8,650 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 23 Mar 2008, 1:34 pm

#637808

Hi

Make sure you keep the square washer straight with screwdriver when tightening, otherwise it will cock and rub on the body support and make a noise.

Steve

StenGuns Veteran Volks Folk

2,147 posts · joined Mar 2004 · 23 Mar 2008, 2:08 pm

#637811

Nothings more than finger tight at this stage so we can slip the rubbers on.. thanks

VWCOOL wrote:You will probably need to loosen and drop the beam an inch or three to install the underside rubber pads; can't quite see if you have already installed them

StenGuns Veteran Volks Folk

2,147 posts · joined Mar 2004 · 23 Mar 2008, 2:09 pm

#637812

Cheers

1303Steve wrote:Hi

Make sure you keep the square washer straight with screwdriver when tightening, otherwise it will cock and rub on the body support and make a noise.

Steve

matberry Moderator Go hard or go home

8,114 posts · joined Mar 2006 · 23 Mar 2008, 2:35 pm

#637816

Also the thickness of the first rubber can be adjusted to alter the A pillar/door alignment.
This is a factory vw spec.

Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE

StenGuns Veteran Volks Folk

2,147 posts · joined Mar 2004 · 23 Mar 2008, 3:17 pm

#637820

Sorry, I don't get that bit.. How do I find out more?

matberry wrote:Also the thickness of the first rubber can be adjusted to alter the A pillar/door alignment.
This is a factory vw spec.

VWCOOL 23 Windows of Awesome

5,158 posts · joined Jun 2003 · 23 Mar 2008, 6:08 pm

#637826

matberry wrote:Also the thickness of the first rubber can be adjusted to alter the A pillar/door alignment.
This is a factory vw spec.

hey didn't know that, makes sense; I might 'jack' my beam to try and close up my door gaps - loose at top and tight at base of B pillar

Crash damage - I might need to 'winch' the car but I'll try that first

Pay your debts, CxxT

Craig Torrens 6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion

8,040 posts · joined Jan 2003 · 23 Mar 2008, 7:11 pm

#637831

I find that theory hard to believe.