I'm assuming I need the car to squat in the rear...........so instead of the Type 3 torsion bars I currently have fitted, should I go back to standard beetle ones ?
Craig Torrens wrote:I'm assuming I need the car to squat in the rear...........so instead of the Type 3 torsion bars I currently have fitted, should I go back to standard beetle ones ?
Cheers
Craig T
Craig you need to have enough power first for the car to squat! 😂
As you know I have the extra weight and power of the EJ20 but I run the larger 28mm torsions and I still get plenty of squat. Have not had problems launching yet all be it relatively soft starts at 2.4-2.6 60ft's.
1971 Type 3 Fasty - EJ20T
I love 242HP sleepers. 🤪
How many sets of lights does it take a $229k Carrera S to learn? 😂 UPDATE: Cayman S, M3, B4 now added to the list.
After thinking about this for a couple of days,
I have perhaps over simplified my response.
In response to craigs question, yes, keep the heavier tortions.
Or even get heavier ones if you plan to race more in a straight line.
You actually WANT weight transfer,
and infact, it WILL occur.
And also, any IRS (swingaxle too) will squat
when the transaxles reaction to torque tries to lift the front of the car.
But, sometimes a heavier tortion bar will prevent this weight transfer,
and limit traction.
But in most cases,
you need the added spring rate
to prevent the suspension from hitting the bump stop.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
What about getting adjustable rate rear dampners to control the rate the spring compresses at? I used to have adjustable rate koni's on my previous setup, and the new coil-overs im using have adjustable variable valving.
My understanding is that you always wanted the spring rate to match the dampener force, or you can get a way to hard a ride, or the other way is that it bounces all over the road because the dampner can not control the spring. Of course drag being a lot diferent to going around corners...
The principals are the same as I understand.
The damper is there to contol the spring.
So what ever spring medium, or rate, you choose,
the damper must be able to keep it under control.
I originally tried a damper with a gas charge to help,
but in the end, what I needed was a much higher spring rate.
Adjustability is nice to have so long as you dont get lost from your base line settings,
and the adjusting method(say with regard to your spring) does not have less strength than non adjustable.
My own car is not adjustable in any way other than ride height at front(stays the same),
And bump stops at the back(stay the same, but should never hit because they are just a saftey stop)
