can anyone provide the numbers from the card supplied with a
K 8 ??
thanks
Engles numbers are 258@.050",
108 lobe centre,
.382 lobe lift.
Bergs and CB make a version as well.
The CB one is good, the others may cause valvetrain problems of harmonics are not kept in check.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Thank you Sir, but I already new that, what I am looking for is the numbers from the card.
Inlet V open degs , IVC degs etc
FK-8
lift .534 at valve .382 at cam 258' at 0.050 lobe 108
io 24'
ec 18'
eo 60'
ic 54'
Mick.
Dont listen to what they say,just watch what they do.Oh yeah ive NEVER finished anything ive started.:o
Thank you Mick
you don't happen to know what the inlet lift @ TDC is do you?
looks like this one is installed 1 degree retarded😂
cheers
Once you have the figures I told you it is very simple to calculate the opening and closing.
258 divided by 2 = 129.
This is how many degrees to the top of the lobe from the .050" opening figure.
Next, subtract the 108 lobe centre = 21 degrees 'inlet opening' before top dead centre.
All Engles are installed advanced 3 degrees = 24 BTDC
To find the 'inlet closing' :
258 - 24 = 234
minus 180 will give you the 'inlet closing' spot, 54 .
Installing any cam "straight up" is OK, and will GENERALLY extend the rpm range, when compared to the recommended figures.
(eg 21/57)
You can install it where you want.
Iif you want a bit more down low, advance it some more: 26/52.
I have advanced some cams up to 10 degrees and had great results.
Exhaust can be calculated a similar way:
258 divided by 2 = 129.
Minus 108 will give you the 'exhaust closing' of 21 degrees AFTER top dead centre.
Advancing the 'exhaust closing' means it will close sooner,
therefore, 3 degrees advance will close the exhaust at only 18 degrees AFTER top dead centre.
The 'exhaust opening' figure is 258 minus 180 = 78.....minus 18 = 60 degrees(before bottom dead centre)
Once you use this method,
you never need a cam card again.
Just use a dial indicator and degree wheel to find the .050" lift positions of each lobe.
Then you can make changes with the gear washers, to position the lobe where you want it to be.
3 degrees advanced is common, but anywhere within 2 degrees of that will be as close as you will get it with most adjustable gears.
I have advanced a whole tooth and then used 4 degree retard washers to make something good, that came from a local cam grinder.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
You're a wealth of useful information Dave!
Dasdubber wrote:You're a wealth of useful information Dave!
Yep, he certainly is.
This is my Volkswagen, there are many like it, but this one is mine. Without me my Volkswagen is useless, without my Volkswagen, I am useless.
61 Karmann Ghia 2110cc type1 w Los Panchito's
66 Deluxe Beetle 2270 type 4
10 Subaru WRX Impreza
Yeah your right there Daves our own aussie bob hoover,Dave should write a book on performance one day.
Dont listen to what they say,just watch what they do.Oh yeah ive NEVER finished anything ive started.:o
Thank you
😎
dave do you have any thing you don't know.
i think we should have a thread devoted to stumping dave,if that's possible.lol.
daves trivia.
i think this is a great idea.
down sharon.
There's plenty I know F**k all about.
Like how to find a chick that understands me.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
dangerous wrote:Like how to find a chick that understands me.
Who understands this question????
😂
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
i found one, at a dub show. Best ever.
This is my Volkswagen, there are many like it, but this one is mine. Without me my Volkswagen is useless, without my Volkswagen, I am useless.
61 Karmann Ghia 2110cc type1 w Los Panchito's
66 Deluxe Beetle 2270 type 4
10 Subaru WRX Impreza
Thank you Dave for this info, it makes things a lot easier to dial in a cam!! Cool!