Hi all. I just refitted the 32PICT3 (I think) that I just put an overhaul kit in. The engine idles beautifully, but try to give it some gas & it dies. I took it off again & removed the accelerator pump totally dry. Looks like the feed hole is blocked. Unfortunately its sort of z shaped, so I can't poke anything through it & I've tried from out side with air at 90ps, but nothing.
Anyone know if the hole is just that, or is there a 1 way valve in it & if so, any ideas how to clean it out & test it?
Thanks. Scotty.
A pessimist is never disappointed!
Hi
I have 3 perfectly great solex carburetors excepting for the accelerator pump circuit is blocked
there is a ball bearing valve that gets jammed up and i know of no way to get it unblocked..
If petrol is left in the carby, when it turns to gunk
the ball gets stuck...
You will need another carby...
My engine idled perfectly but it couldn't be driven out of the garage..
cheers
LEE
http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
The only thing I can think of is to strip the carb down and soak it in a solvet for a while then use a compressor to try and blast it clear.
I have had 2 carbies like yours one came good the other is in a box for parts
hope it works for you.
Marc
If you can't laugh at yourself you can't laugh at anyone else! Because life is to short not to LAUGH
Not sure about the Bug carbs but the Type 3 ones can be pulled apart IF YOU ARE CAREFULL!
There are two balls in the accelerator pump which can corode if left without fuel in for extended periods. The steel ball generally survives but the carb dries and fills the galleries with the powdery aluminium oxide.
A few pics below showing the bits which have to come out. The one down in the float bowl is tapped M4 on the Type 3 so this can be removed by screwing a long M4 screw in and using a siutable puller to remove and give access to the ball and gallery.
The top one is raised above the carb face and can be gripped with a suitable tool. Best to drill a hole the exact size of the brass plug in a piece of steel or brass , split one side with a hacksaw, slip over the plug and then grip with pliers or similar, give a bit of a twist and it will come out.
With the balls removed, the galleries at A and B can be cleaned, blown out and the bits replaced. If the steel balls are rusted replacements can generally be purchased from bearing outlets. Maybe they are stainless steel and are rust resistant. The replacement ones are the martensitic 400 series stainless so not as rust resistant as 316 etc but are hardened.
Hope it helps.
DH
Hi all.
Lee, thanks for the info. I didn't know if there was a ball arrangement in there, but you've set me right on that
DH, thanks for the pix. My carb looks a lot different to yours, but has a threaded insert as your 1st pic. So it looks like I should be able to remove the insert & fins a ball & spring under it. That has made my job so much easier. Thank you. Hopefully, I might be able to salvage it after all.
A pessimist is never disappointed!
Mowog,
The 34 Pict 3 only has one check ball from memory. The M4 stud will work, but the rest of the acc pump circuit is different to the carby shot 1500S has. If you pull off your acc pump cover and get the diaphragm out you can follow the circuit easily as the passages are part of the external casting. There is an aluminium plug in the end of the horizontal tube which directs the fuel upward toward the brass acc pump discharge tube. Note the little brass spigot near the bottom of the vertical tube. You can rip that out with pliers and pein the casting around it when you put it back in...if you like.
My wife has the digicam and she's away so I can't post a pic.
HTH
Ctefeh
Hi all.
Thanks for the help, problem solved. Even after soaking the accelerator pump feed in carb cleaner for a couple of days, it opened the hole, but the ball was still gummed up, so i pulled the brass bush, as in the photo & cleaned out all the hard gum residue & loctited the bung back in place. Result, now works perfectly. Just watch out for those cheap universal carb rebuild kits. The inlet (needle & seat valve) was way too long & none of the gaskets I used fitted without trimming. neither of the needles supplied fitted, & the aluminium washers were all too big. Pretty useless really!
Cheers
Scotty.
A pessimist is never disappointed!
👍
DH
good work theres a CRC product i think its called Carby cleaner it works much quicker on old dried petrol and will probally clean it up better think it comes in a pressure pack can
Repco sells carby cleaner. Never used it personally. Just mentioning because I saw it on the shelf there last week. FIrst time I have actually ever seen the stuff in person.
Do the TypeIV carbies have the check valve arrangement? It'd sure explain why one of the pumps only works occasionally. After all, the van has been sitting more or less idle for nearly 4 years.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
I actually used a spray can of carb cleaner. After a couple of days of frequently spraying the feed hole, I could blow air through the pump chamber feed, but the ball was still jammed, so the diaphragm would have just pushed the petrol back into the float bowl, rather than into the venturi. I had to pull the ball out & scrape it clean by hand. Whatever deposits were on it were pretty hard. It wasn't corrosion. I'm guessing the ball is stainless steel. So the carb cleaner didn't totally work, but it did get the outside & the float bowl nice & clean. I put the carb back in the car today & it starts easily & runs nicely. I guess with a tune up it might be a good 'un!
Scotty.
A pessimist is never disappointed!
