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removable rear bit??

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newVWa Learner Dubber

18 posts · joined Jul 2008 ·

#657768
I was told by someone that you can make the small section (above the exhaust and what has the rear engine lid latch, sorry not sure what to call it) removable. I guess it is reattached by bolts etc. Has anyone done this to their beetle. Does it effect any of the strength of the rear body?
Probably a silly question to you all, but I'm learning 🙂

vwsteve karmann crazy

2,087 posts · joined Jul 2006 ·

#657787
you have to carefully drill out the hundred odd spotwelds(if it hasnt been replaced before) and depending on how fussy you are you can use large washers where your rear guards bolt up to hold it in, sometimes they still move around a bit though, its a rear apron by the way
1 1963 356b porsche coupe
2 1960 karmann ghia cab
1 1965 karmann ghia cab
1 1966 karmann cab
1 1961 split ute
1 1967 split p/van
1 1952 standard bug
1 1963 ragtop
1 1960 ragtop
2 1954 ovals
1 1956 oval baja project
1 1957 oval flying flea

newVWa Learner Dubber

18 posts · joined Jul 2008 ·

#657794
Cheers Mate.

68AutoBug Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --

11,654 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#657843
newVWa wrote:I was told by someone that you can make the small section (above the exhaust and what has the rear engine lid latch, sorry not sure what to call it) removable. I guess it is reattached by bolts etc. Has anyone done this to their beetle. Does it effect any of the strength of the rear body?
Probably a silly question to you all, but I'm learning 🙂
Removeable rear valance..
I have a fibreglass one...

once they are bolted up, its pretty strong...

I did think I may have to put a bar across the back behind the valance... but once bolted up... its OK..
the sides of the fibreglass valance fit between the guard and the body..

it makes taking the engine out a breeze....


the body doesn't shake with the engine going etc...
it doesn't move...
I drilled out the spot welds , it wasn't hard, and I'd never done it before, and i didn't drill any holes, only the spot welds...
One of the locals used to have two fiberglass valances
one, He had cut so He could use the twin tail pipes
and the other was when He had extractor exhaust on..
no outlets.. I have My exhaust under the valance rather than cut the two outlets in the fiberglass...

Lee

http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug

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- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---

Joel Now containing 100\% E-Wang

9,368 posts · joined Feb 2006 ·

#657857
dont do it if u plan on running no bumpers
theres a bit of flex in the inner gaurds once the valance is cut off
my 1500 bug has a fibreglass john sherman one same as on Lees bug but it had Tbars instead of bumpers and there was a bit of flexing there

also another issue with them is the engine bay seal
if u run a vw engine its very important u seal off the valance to the tinware or the engine will cook
mine had a rotary so it wasnt an issue but when i put a vw engine i screwed some thick rubber to the tinware that butted up to the valance to keep the exhaust heat out

68AutoBug Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --

11,654 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#657862
its best to keep as much of the hot air under the engine tinware in the summer...

I just used a piece of 4 mm rubber and screwed it to the centre rear section of tinware..
I used the two sides of a normal engine rubber..
but didn't use the centre section...

LEE

First photo: see the gap
second photo: rubber seal

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- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---

newVWa Learner Dubber

18 posts · joined Jul 2008 ·

#658501
Thanks for that I'll see how I go.....