Last weekend I disassembled, this weekend I reassemble.
Basically I have decided to finally do two things that I've wanted to do for ages.
1 - replace my temporary (only been there for 5 years) $20 exhaust system with something a bit better. So I am going for a 2.5" system with a basically straight through muffler (old 2" one had muliple chambers and I think restricted the top end). Seemed like a good idea since I recently put some good headers on the motor.
2 - Install a Davies Craig electric water pump (EWP). This allows me to remove a belt, a power steering pump (that was full of grease and acted as an idler since I don't have power steering), and the tensioner idler assembly. Nearly 3.5kg of junk.
Old 2" exhaust with chambered muffler (5yrs ago when it looked nice);
V6 with relatively new headers and gutted water pump (had to pull the timing belt off to get to the water pump)
Crap I can throw away since I have an EWP;
Most of the new bits to fabricate into something useful;
wow you have a lot to do, I feel much better about my pile of unfinished cars and garden orniments.
Then again after a week of the tow truck guy coming in every day my front yard is now void of VW's and the last one shoudl leav Sunday from the inside yard..
Hmmm...looks interesting!! Are you going to use a controller for the pump or remove the thermostat and wire it up for continuos use?? Do you think it will help your "hotter" highway temperatures???????????????
I'm removing the thermostat and using the fancy temperature controller which cycles the pump and varies it's speed. The controller is actually more expensive than the pump!!!
I haven't had any hot highway temps since I added the "temporary" (which can mean a long time for me it seems) air scoop on the passenger side trailing arm. It may help though, as the old water pump was turning pretty slow with my tall highway 4th gear.
I finished the exhaust today. It was very very fiddley. I had to put each part on and off a number of times to keep test fitting things. It's a very tight fit back there. 40mm clearance to the rear tyre on one side, 40mm clearance to the headers on the other side, and 20mm clearance to the secondaries underneath. The new pipes and muffler were significantly bigger than the old ones.
And I spent a while die-grinding the merge in the factory secondarys, so it flows better. They came from the factory with the low budget method of merging two pipe, by squashing them into hemi-spherical shapes and then welding them together. I also found I needed a flange just before the final exhaust tip, because if I didn't have it then I couldn't get the muffler off with the engine cage still in place. It's all very tight. I made the exhaust tip part from a piece of 3".
This view showed how tight it was with the old exhaust (and a bike muffler at that time);
Side view of new exhaust with engine cage removed (so I could put the timing belt back on);
rear view;
I put the timing belt back on, and started it. It's definitely louder. It sounds like it will be ok when driving normal, but will be very loud when I rev it out at full throttle.
I just went with the 80L pump. Davies Craig (manufacturer) reckons it's good for engines up to 5L.
I really doubt my heater will work after I install the EWP. The heater was a bypass for the radiator in the orginal set-up of the car. But with the EWP installed the heater will essentially be a bypass for the engine.
So, it's all done. The EWP controller wouldn't work and kept me frustrated for ages, so it will be going back for a refund. In the end I just wired the pump in to the ignition to run the whole time, and it worked fine. It didn't overcool the engine at all, as my rear radiator set-up obviously relies on the thermofans to maintain the temperature.
Exhaust done;
video of some acceleration runs, it was raining so I couldn't get a video of the sound from the outside. Besides, it's going to the dyno on saturday and I will get a good video then. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-GyyzcwK6EY
There is more top end power, it doesn't flatten off like it used to. It's hard to say whether it was the water pump or the exhaust, but I'm thinking the exhaust. You can see now it revs to 7,500 without slowing down or flattening off.
How long does it take to get up to operating temp? If the thermostat sticks open normally the car will use a lot more fuel as it takes a lot longer to warm up and stays on the cold start circuit. I'm sure this would be the case with yours as well not having a thermostat at all and the water pump running full time
65 Meyers Manx
68 Country Buggy (KO 367)
68 Country Buggy (KO 669)
68 Country Buggy (KO 789)
68 Country Buggy (KO 815)
68 Baja Bug
76 Baja Kombi Twincab
I warmed it up by letting it sit there and idle as I was tinkering with things, so haven't done a proper cold to hot warm-up. I think my radiator not getting enough air means the water pump can go as fast or slow as it likes, it's the thermofans providing air flow that is effecting and controlling the engine temp.
The Baja used to average around the 9L/100km mark, but I've just put two new oxygen sensors so I'll see if it improves. The O2 sensor on one bank of the V6 was dead, and the plugs on that side were black as a result.
However the Passat averages around 8L/100km (and the wipers are useful in the rain) and the bike averages 4.5-5L/100km. Since Petrol is $1.60/L, which vehicle would you use most often? 🙂 And you can't talk, your building another car because you won't pay for fuel in your cruiser 😀
nice work looks great wes. lets see a blower strapped to the klze 🙂
Love is a Rotary baja bug
Just be carefull 🥷,, something dangerous is lurkin in My garage ready to burst out in a fit of Big Hp, high boost baja Rage .
I took the car for a drive today to get fuel (before it goes up for the week). Yes, with the EWP going flat out it did take longer than normal to heat up. It also didn't hold temperature on 60-70kph roads, it kept hovering around normal but slightly below, particularly on any long down hill runs. So looks like I do need the EWP controller after all.
140.8HP at the wheels. The VW kombi gearbox I'm using, the offroad tyres and the high CV angles seems to add up to about 30% of losses (70% efficient). We've noticed this sort of losses on a range of suby conversions and my car. So using the 30% losses the 140.8HP relates to the KLZE 200HP at the flywheel quite well.
My car was quieter from the outside than I thought it would be. The U-bends in the exhaust probably still restrict the system a bit and keep the noise down. I thought it would have been louder with e 2.5" straight through muffler.
i very much doubt that a beetle that nice sees too much off road action i bet that its close to a conservative 70/30 split 70% on road that is
easy to have a second set of street wheels that wont stress the cog swapper and in guessing it has an adj front and rear end????
are the thousands n thousands of splits really rare???
Why would I build a car capable of offroading and then put street tyres on it? A Baja with a body lift and small street tyres would also look ridiculous. No I don't have an adjustable rear, and my adjustable front is a thing front end that is in it's lowest position.
Beside if I wanted something that handled I would have built a street beetle. If I was after something that accelerated really fast I would have put an EJ20 turbo in it. And I have my motorbike for something that goes fast and handles well on the street.
