My car has developed this intermittent stalling problem.
When you turn the car over it will idle for anything up to a minute and then just stop. It doesn't seem to starve of fuel - it seems to lose spark.
I've swapped over the fuel pump, carb, checked the timing, blown through the fuel line, condenser - and it still seems to do the same thing. It has a new coil from about 10 weeks ago, so that one is ruled out.
I've spoken to a few people including Damo, Craig & Matt (thanks for you help so far guys), and we were thinking that it may be the internal spring at the bottom of the dizzy - so next step may be to just swap the who dizzy out and go from there. We also thought it may be the carby with a faulty float - even though I've swapped over the carb - and perhaps have the same problem?? We even thought it may have been a faulty tap on the fuel tank (between upper and lower pipes) - but we haven't yet taken the step of clearing out the tank.
The car was intermittently ill and Valla, which I cured yesterday, but it seems to have come back again - even with all of those changes.
Any ideas???
Also just a big thanks to Dino for bringing our tribe home from the Glenmore Park Show after we left the car at Monster, and also to Damo and Matt for perservering this afternoon / evening.
You know i'm no pro, just pockin guesses for ya man.
Whats the condition of the 12Volt source lead to your coil?
No frays? pretty old? No part where the insulation has come off and can earth on the body?
If its anything like an old set of earphones, the copper wire in the earphones lead when it has a fissure, the noise comes out the speaker then the slightest bump/shake or movement in the wire and its gone, (cause the fissured copper inside the wire lost contact and the signal doesn't pass through, than it works again when shaken / moved or the wire that was bumped returns to its orginal position where it worked (via gravity or wateva)...
If the motor stalls out instantly, then u could tell if it was spark loss, if fuel starvation it would slowly wither to a stall (in comparison) wouldn't it?
the terminals on your voltage regulator still well on? I would imagine the battery terminals still firm...
It's 6v. It definitely stalls out instantly like it's been turned off. It doesn't appear to starve for fuel, as loss is instant, and cannot be brought back with throttle inputs.
squizy wrote:I've spoken to a few people including Damo, Craig & Matt (thanks for you help so far guys), and we were thinking that it may be the internal spring at the bottom of the dizzy - so next step may be to just swap the who dizzy out and go from there. We also thought it may be the carby with a faulty float - even though I've swapped over the carb - and perhaps have the same problem?? We even thought it may have been a faulty tap on the fuel tank (between upper and lower pipes) - but we haven't yet taken the step of clearing out the tank.
I had same problem, but mine would run for 30 mins, and it was the internal spring... runs fine now, also had a cheap ass 009, that didnt help...
you will have to have it sit on level surface and start up then allow it to stop
1. check the fuel level in the carby u will have to take the top of the carby off ,,, this could be the fuel pump, may need a slightly longer push rod as its worn
2. check if the ignition lights are still on when its stalled, the switch could be vibrating to the off position, dont touch anything jus tsee if you still have the ignition lights on after its stopped
3. do u havea good earth system do u have the front earth strap on the gearbox to chassis
4. check the points gap in the dissy has it closed up
5. do u still have the reserve fuel tap is it fully open and the fuel flowing free, and do u have enough fuel in the tank
Hi Dave. We've swapped over the carby, so we've hopefully passed that issue - unless of course the replacement carby has the same problem.
Yes - the ignition lights stay on when it stops.
The points gap has been checked.
The fuel tap has gone through varying stages of top and bottom to try and trace it. It did appear to run better in the bottom position, but now it's just bad all the time. We blew through the fuel line last night - plenty of fuel in the tank.
I'm going to be getting my hands on another dizzy tonight off Craig and will throw that in tonight and eliminate that one from the list.
We've pulled the fuel line out at the carby and sprayed it into a bottle when we've cranked the motor which had made us think it's more at the back end of the car. We've had the tap set to both 12 o'clock (top pipe) and 3 o'clock (bottom pipe), and it happens no matter what position.
When the motor stops, it doesn't seem the chug and starve for fuel and then stop, it just stops dead as if it's losing spark.
just as a suggestion - does the carby have an idle stop solenoid if so then is the idle stop solenoid wire connected properly and with out cracks or stiffness in the wire. We had this problem on a 1500 before.
What my garage isn't messy........Well chaos is a form of order isn't it?
squizy wrote:I've swapped over the fuel pump, carb, checked the timing, blown through the fuel line, condenser - and it still seems to do the same thing.
if its the correct 36hp dizzy, check the fibre washers that insulate the bolt that passes thru the dizzy body to connect the points to the negative terminal on the coil. While your at it check the negative wires from points to coil, if these are grounding motor will stop instantly. Sounds to me like electrical rather than fuel. As someone has already said fule supply would cause stumbling and missing before stopping.
just a thought have you checked the in tank filter and the one in the fuel pump
easy to check in tank one pull a line of see it in runs ok and pump take the line to carby off and coil positivree than turn engine over should squirt really good 🙅
👍👍😂🙅🥷😬🤓
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
So it's fixed. It ended up being the needle and seat. Funny thing is, the needle and seat must have been dud in the replacement carby too - hence sending us onto different levels of diagnosis.
I rebuilt the carby (like new), works perfect on my car...............put it on Squiz and the same prob. It has a New coil, perfect carby, new fuel pump, replacement dizzy........................I'm thinking a burnt exhaust valve or a closed exhaust tappet.
Squiz will be doing tappets tonight..............apart from that it has me miffed !
I had a new head put on about 8 weeks ago now Dave, and that was adjusted after 250 miles. There may be an issue there whereby the gap has closed up and needs adjustment. The problem is though is that the problem seems to have changed from what it was a couple of weeks ago. Frustration abounds.
So it's fixed. It ended up being the needle and seat. Funny thing is, the needle and seat must have been dud in the replacement carby too - hence sending us onto different levels of diagnosis.
You owe Damo $100.
So it ran for 30 mins, and then stopped down the road the next time it was driven.
As Craig said, the carby has been rebuilt and runs fines on his car. Tappets next, then rechecking all the fuel line back to the tank.
