I have been sanding back the paint on my wagen, which has a thick layer of white enamal on top of the last spray job.
I started using 180 grit wet and dry and has been taking alot to get it back. Is it ok to go down to
150 or even 120 to make it faster and then hit it with 240 to smooth it out?
thanks
Paint stripper back to bare metal would be the only real way to go. Leaving any previous substrates could be the biggest mistake you will make. Incompatibility between products will be your downfall. Consult your paint supplier.
Yeah right. I was reading about the strip it disks. They sound the way to go. I tried some paint striper on the bonnet to see how it would go and found that it was all over the shot. one patch went right back, next to it only took off the top layer and so on.
If you put paint stripper and cover it with cling wrap and leave it for a while, you will get rid of most paint. A metal scrapper also helps.
I was also told that getting proper paint stripper from paint/panel beating suppliers makes a huge difference. (Admittingly, I have only use the proper trade stuff)
The strip it disks can get pretty expensive unless you find some cheaper generic ones.
Thats not rust, it's ah ... orange primer ... yep that's what it is ...
How messy can paint stripper get? I am looking to do most of the prep on my 68 beetle project myself and am worried about leaving a mess all over the driveway of my unit.
If you are careful, it is only as messy as you are.
you could get away with 2-3 strip it discs on a beetle, paint stripper isnt messy at all, just have plastic bags ready. Scrap off straight into the bag.
What is the best surface prep after the paint stripper to avoid the etch primer reacting to the paint stripper?
If you can't fix it with a hammer,
you have an electrical problem....
At TAFE we just wipe it over with a wet rag then when its dry clean with wax and grease remover. Well at least I think we do (Too much Vodka, sorry it aint no rum 🤪)
Simon
