Hi all,
Thinking about putting an external oil cooler on my baja, now my question is do you run both internal and external or just the external one?
Thanks
both, specially for baja for all the hard work at low speeds, you will need the factory one still for sure
If I were to use an external one I would also change the oil pump to a higher pressure one as well. As hellbugged says use both as the external one wouldn'nt be getting any cooling air when you're not moving. It'd only lose a bit of heat through convection (I believe that's the correct way of putting it). Trust me I'm speaking from experience....bad experience🙁
Put both in, I have some alloy plates that i zip tie over the external one in winter when i am on the highway. Remove them for track use etc.
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OK, I just KNOW this is going to be a dumb question... but to run both standard and external cooler's I'm figuring the take off for the external is at the pump cover plate, doesn't the external cooler effectively become full-flow ??? What sort of warm-up times are people seeing with that setup ???
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Sides wrote:OK, I just KNOW this is going to be a dumb question... but to run both standard and external cooler's I'm figuring the take off for the external is at the pump cover plate, doesn't the external cooler effectively become full-flow ??? What sort of warm-up times are people seeing with that setup ???
yes.
you can run an external thermostat in line too.
warm up time varies a lot depending........mine takes 8km/10 minutes or so wth a thermostat
full flow, the only way to do it properly
add a remote filter and an oil cooler after that ur engine will thank u
ive full flowed engines without splitting the cases
Mine is tapped into the block and also runs a external filter. hence why it took me a good 15mins to warm the engine up at dyno day!
I have no sympathy for my car, only the wallet that pays for it!
Go hard or go home!!!!
Can a similar setup be used for a Type4 motor? Not that it's having overheating problems anymore, yet. I'm mostly asking because it seems like a possibility for preheating the manifold without causing parasitic drain with an electric setup or whatever.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
General_Failure wrote:Can a similar setup be used for a Type4 motor? Not that it's having overheating problems anymore, yet. I'm mostly asking because it seems like a possibility for preheating the manifold without causing parasitic drain with an electric setup or whatever.
yes, use a setrab adapter that goes like a sandwhich plate under your screw on oil filter
Do you mean where the oil filter screws in, or where the bracket bolts on?
Sorry, just never heard of them.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
Just use the CB full flow in and out oil pump combo from CIP1, no need to tap the case.
General_Failure wrote:Do you mean where the oil filter screws in, or where the bracket bolts on?
Sorry, just never heard of them.
yes. like a two inch adapter plate that goes underneath the filter before you screw it back on...........the external lines leave and return to this plate.
Bone Collector wrote:Just use the CB full flow in and out oil pump combo from CIP1, no need to tap the case.
not for me........asking for cavitation and flow confusion IMHO.
as Joel mentioned above, can be drilled and tapped with an assembled engine still in the car........too easy
Thankyou. Just looked them up. If I have a manifold icing issue I know the path I'm going to take, just to be esoteric.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
Is there a thread on here about tapping the case to add oil lines without splitting it?
I was thinking about removing the original oil cooler and mounting an external oil cooler over the type 1 air intake to ensure continuous air flow at idle and then use a thermostat to regulate oil flow through the oil cooler bypass. Would this setup give problems?
What my garage isn't messy........Well chaos is a form of order isn't it?
If you mount the external cooler over the air intake for the engine,it will overheat the engine as it will be trying to cool yer donk with hot air!!! Leave the normal cooler in place and tap your case for full flow and use an external cooler as well if needed.My 1916 was tapped and used the original cooler and never overheated....but ran too cold when I used the external cooler as well as the standard one, so I reverted to just the standard cooler.
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Adam, ive full flowed one of my engines without splitting the case b4 if u need any info
aftermarket oil coolers over the fan shroud intake was an old trick alot of off roaders used to do in their infinite wisdom
mick has already pointed out the down falls of this system
worst thing ppl can do is remove the stock oil coolers
the pressure releife valve if its working properly will bypass most of the oil cooler till it gets some temp about it
Joel wrote:Adam, ive full flowed one of my engines without splitting the case b4 if u need any info
aftermarket oil coolers over the fan shroud intake was an old trick alot of off roaders used to do in their infinite wisdom
mick has already pointed out the down falls of this system
worst thing ppl can do is remove the stock oil coolers
the pressure releife valve if its working properly will bypass most of the oil cooler till it gets some temp about it
Thats funny , my beetle has had the std cooler removed for more than 20 years,
😂
it only had a std engine and cooler for 12 years.
🤪Yeh...but you're "speshul"🤓 You CAN remove the standard cooler and replace it with an aftermarket remote type cooler but ask yourself if you REALLY need to......and why?? If you race you might have the need....but otherwise....nuh....
tssnq.com.au
johny rotten wrote:Thats funny , my beetle has had the std cooler removed for more than 20 years,😂
it only had a std engine and cooler for 12 years.🤪
so just becos u done it for the last 20 years doesnt mean its a good idea
20 years ago ppl threw out thermostats and added carrera kits cos it seemed like a good idea at the time
have u got an oil temp gauge or a thermostatically operated fan on it?
most dont and what happens in the middle of summer when little road work man puts the red stop sign up and stops them for 10mins....
if u got an engine under 2L and the stock oil cooler has problems keeping it cool then u got problems
MickH wrote:If you mount the external cooler over the air intake for the engine,it will overheat the engine as it will be trying to cool yer donk with hot air!!! Leave the normal cooler in place and tap your case for full flow and use an external cooler as well if needed.My 1916 was tapped and used the original cooler and never overheated....but ran too cold when I used the external cooler as well as the standard one, so I reverted to just the standard cooler.
Mick
I was thinking about using that oil cooler replacement fitting I got off you and running an external oil cooler so I can also add an oil filter and oil temp inline. I wasn't real keen on spending a fortune to get an oil pump housing with an in and out setup. Unless someone knows of a cheap place to buy one?
Joel
Can you send me some details on drilling the case while assembled?
What my garage isn't messy........Well chaos is a form of order isn't it?
No worries Adam PM sent
