Hi All,
I keep hearing of early 1600 cracking the crankcase near No3,this is making me nervous as I have just bought a 1600TP and just in case is there a cold repair available that works or is it a case of tossing it out?.Cheers Ron.
not worth saving as the new all aluminum cases are great but is it cracked now if not stop aorring thats like wondering if your headlights will fall out just dont do dumb things like run it low on oil and many other stuff
👍👍😂🙅🥷😬🤓
As a stock size motor they are pretty safe , as it is mainly only a consern once the block has been side bored to fit 94mm barrells for a 1916cc upgrade that they become weak in this area due to the lost metal at the barrell openings
Don't let body work get in the way of real suspension travel
I had this once on another (apparently) STOCK-barelled 1600 type 3 in otherwise good cond. There is probably no cold repair, or 'precaution' other than welding the thinnest area behind #3 (under the flywheel). I think this is a precaution - not a cure. I don't think you can repair something that hasn't happened yet - anyway once it has begun it may be too late.
Brutus had no case probs with a long, hard life with original 85.5's (twice); then machine-in 88's in the standard 1600 case. When went to 92's the thin/weak area was fully welded-up and has held on so far since back through 90.5's - and now 92's again... So far. This case has done SO many miles... certainly over 300,000
If in doubt have it filled with weld behind the flywheel when next rebuilt. I've heard they can crack across the top of the case instea, or as well -- maybe there's no way to prevent that.
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I wouldn't be worried about the case cracking
I have seen where some workshops fill the area where it normally cracks with EPOXY...
but these were large engines...
not sure where it was - Aust or overseas...
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
We all know too about number 3 cylinder always being the hottest...
and dropping number 3 exhaust valve...
this doesn't normally happen with an engine that is tuned correctly and the oil changed every 3000 kms..
and the tappets done... most important to know how to do these things yourself..
and NO Air leaks on the engine..
cheers
LEE
PS: Do You have a fire extinguisher in Your VW??
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
The other ODD thing Ron
is that H0 1500 single port engines have a good name in most countries
except in the USA where they used to fail...
lucky I guess i'm in Australia...
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
if u keep to the maintaince routine, dont overheat and dont flog it it will be fine
original owner of my Lbug was a hoarder for every piece of paperwork and kept it till he gave up driving in 92
the factory original engine wasnt far off clocking half a million KMs b4 i took it out a few years back
had its first line bore in 1985 at 191,000kms and a second at 334,000kms in 94 but other than that case has never been touched
its still got no end play or bottom end death rattles but it needed a valve job and i needed more power
being a late AS 1600 meant it had 8mm studs with casesavers which was probably the main reason it lived so long and trouble free tho
the earlier 10mm stud AD and AB engines were notorious for pulling the studs out of the case but most smart engine builders put in case savers during rebuilds
have a looksee which urs has
