The purple camper looks a bit different now, the current owner ditched a lot of the mods (but not the V8!)
Wild1 Wolfsburg Wizard
448 posts · joined Jun 2006 ·
The Ultimate Kombi bay-window camper.. How would you do it?
Phil74Camper Head in the Clouds
2,703 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
Glad to hear you're going to stick with a VW engine, gearbox and brakes/suspension for the Kombi. A 1916 will be perfectly adequate for what the vehicle will do - VW sold 12,000 Campmobiles in Australia from 1970-79, more than any other make before or since, so that many VW-powered owners can't be wrong. Forget this nonsense about Subaru engines and rubbish from these pseudo VW enthusiasts - they are missing the point. Kombi Campers are for enjoying the back roads and scenery at 80 km/h, not for cruising at high speeds on motorways. Get a T5 if you want to go everywhere at 120. As the sticker on Fillmore the VW Bus in 'Cars' says, 'Life Begins at the Exit Ramp.'
OK if you want to fit a sink, water, fridge and stove, the only thing is what layout? There are two basic ways of doing it, which is putting the stove and sink in the right-hand wall unit (along the side behind the driver), or in a self-contained unit behind the passenger. Independents like Swagman and Trakka (early on) used to do the former, while Sopru preferred the latter, which is better. You could improve on the standard layout by fitting the fridge/stove unit on a swing-out bracket, which Trakka can supply. The whole unit could then be rotated out the side door, so you cook/get beer outside, but the whole thing is still self-contained. Have a look at the Dometic (Electroclux) range of RV/caravan fridges at http://www.dometic.com/enau/Asia-Pacific/Australia/Product-ranges/RV/Refrigerators/
Sopru tried two different water systems. Earlier models like mine used a 20-litre jerry can-style plastic container under the sink, with a standard caravan-style up/down hand pump. Later models used a much larger metal underfloor tank, which was 40 litres or more. This was much heavier, but it freed up space inside the Kombi as it was mounted outside. Whichever way you go depends on your layout and how much water you want to carry. You can fit modern electric pumps and switches too, rather than the old hand pump, if you wish. All these sorts of goodies can be bought from caravan accessory shops like Camec http://www.camec.com.au/
Have a browse through their catalog and you'll get some great ideas. How about a 12V fluoro downlight in the pop roof, for reading? Electric fan for blowing cool air? Portable shower? Camping toilet? Removeable stove? 240v hotplate? Even a tiny 240v microwave oven?
Anything you could fit to a caravan, sailboat or cabin cruiser, you could fit in a Kombi camper.
OK if you want to fit a sink, water, fridge and stove, the only thing is what layout? There are two basic ways of doing it, which is putting the stove and sink in the right-hand wall unit (along the side behind the driver), or in a self-contained unit behind the passenger. Independents like Swagman and Trakka (early on) used to do the former, while Sopru preferred the latter, which is better. You could improve on the standard layout by fitting the fridge/stove unit on a swing-out bracket, which Trakka can supply. The whole unit could then be rotated out the side door, so you cook/get beer outside, but the whole thing is still self-contained. Have a look at the Dometic (Electroclux) range of RV/caravan fridges at http://www.dometic.com/enau/Asia-Pacific/Australia/Product-ranges/RV/Refrigerators/
Sopru tried two different water systems. Earlier models like mine used a 20-litre jerry can-style plastic container under the sink, with a standard caravan-style up/down hand pump. Later models used a much larger metal underfloor tank, which was 40 litres or more. This was much heavier, but it freed up space inside the Kombi as it was mounted outside. Whichever way you go depends on your layout and how much water you want to carry. You can fit modern electric pumps and switches too, rather than the old hand pump, if you wish. All these sorts of goodies can be bought from caravan accessory shops like Camec http://www.camec.com.au/
Have a browse through their catalog and you'll get some great ideas. How about a 12V fluoro downlight in the pop roof, for reading? Electric fan for blowing cool air? Portable shower? Camping toilet? Removeable stove? 240v hotplate? Even a tiny 240v microwave oven?
Anything you could fit to a caravan, sailboat or cabin cruiser, you could fit in a Kombi camper.
VWCOOL 23 Windows of Awesome
5,158 posts · joined Jun 2003 ·
Daimo - there's some *nice* colours there! 🤪
I don't mind Subie transplants and I love the idea of a 200km/h screamer Kombi but yes I will be retaining air-cooled power. Will be the 1600 for now - with twin carbs, 009 and exhaust - as the engine seems to run fine. The engine is filthy outside but looks like new under the rocker covers which means to me this Kombi has spent 25 of its 37 years doing nothing...
I had a good look at my stripped interior last night and will investigate the swing-out idea for the stove, with a sink unit behind the driver's seat. Lighting will be LEDs. My Engel fridge can be used as a seat, and I reckon a detachable table top will be a good idea...
I don't mind Subie transplants and I love the idea of a 200km/h screamer Kombi but yes I will be retaining air-cooled power. Will be the 1600 for now - with twin carbs, 009 and exhaust - as the engine seems to run fine. The engine is filthy outside but looks like new under the rocker covers which means to me this Kombi has spent 25 of its 37 years doing nothing...
I had a good look at my stripped interior last night and will investigate the swing-out idea for the stove, with a sink unit behind the driver's seat. Lighting will be LEDs. My Engel fridge can be used as a seat, and I reckon a detachable table top will be a good idea...
Pay your debts, CxxT
Phil74Camper Head in the Clouds
2,703 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
If you're in Sydney, come to the Club Veedub meeting next Thursday week (18th) at the Greyhound Club, Yagoona. You're welcome to have a look at my Kombi's layout. There'll be others there too.
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General_Failure Use your head, don't abuse it!
1,036 posts · joined Jun 2004 ·
I'd start by steering clear of conversions done by Land Cruisers Australia. Their camper conversion is why I never think twice about doing major things to my van. Wrecked from the conversion company.
What I have learned is that a good camper:
* Has its windows mounted correctly, and the holes rustproofed.
* Shouldn't have a warped pop top.
* Shouldn't be an auto.
* Should not have a chunk cut out of the engine inspection cover to make a wardrobe fit.
* Should be remotely watertight.
* Should have some sort of panelling put over the bare bay window structural work.
* Should not have any holes drilled from the cabin to inside the wheel well.
Do I need to go on?
Let's just say if you are doing it, do it your way but do it properly!
What I have learned is that a good camper:
* Has its windows mounted correctly, and the holes rustproofed.
* Shouldn't have a warped pop top.
* Shouldn't be an auto.
* Should not have a chunk cut out of the engine inspection cover to make a wardrobe fit.
* Should be remotely watertight.
* Should have some sort of panelling put over the bare bay window structural work.
* Should not have any holes drilled from the cabin to inside the wheel well.
Do I need to go on?
Let's just say if you are doing it, do it your way but do it properly!
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
Phil74Camper Head in the Clouds
2,703 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
I agree with nearly all of those points; standard Kombi windows (at least with the flipper windows) are a rust weak spot. The flipper window frame is only painted steel and crumbles to dust eventually. If yours are OK, you can cad-plate them and put them back with new rubbers; but if your furniture covers them, you may as well just put in one-piece flat glass. I only have working flippers in the sliding door and right rear.
Sopru tops were well made and fit perfectly; a function of semi mass-production. The fibreglass can be sanded smooth and painted in two-pack. Competing tops from aftermarket companies may not be as good. The ones that try to sit flatter don't work as well. It's better to have the strong, hefty curves of the Sopru roof that fits well, at a slight cost of greater wind resistence, than a sleeker top that leaks.
Yes it is the wardrobe that should be slotted so the engine cover can be lifted. That's what the factory campers have.
Factory campers kept the stock interior panels on the sliding door and the left rear panel, beside the back seat. These are easy to make in 3mm mdf, with foam and vinyl as appropriate. The right side is covered with furniture. And I certainly agree with no holes drilled through the wheelwells! Sopru campers were not perfect however; they were recalled in the early 1970s for fitting roof mounting screws that were too long and poked almost down through the headlining above the drivers head! You should not be able to feel mounting screws when you push the headliner up with your fingers.
I disagree about the auto - mine is an auto and is wonderful to drive in Sydney traffic. On the highway its overall gearing is almost the same as a manual. It does have a bit of a thirst for fuel, which I can live with. It can handle any slope I've thrown at it so far; only reverse doesn't really like a climb but it's fine in normal parking movements. Autos were only fitted to Type 4-based Kombis so this doesn't apply to low-lights.
Sopru tops were well made and fit perfectly; a function of semi mass-production. The fibreglass can be sanded smooth and painted in two-pack. Competing tops from aftermarket companies may not be as good. The ones that try to sit flatter don't work as well. It's better to have the strong, hefty curves of the Sopru roof that fits well, at a slight cost of greater wind resistence, than a sleeker top that leaks.
Yes it is the wardrobe that should be slotted so the engine cover can be lifted. That's what the factory campers have.
Factory campers kept the stock interior panels on the sliding door and the left rear panel, beside the back seat. These are easy to make in 3mm mdf, with foam and vinyl as appropriate. The right side is covered with furniture. And I certainly agree with no holes drilled through the wheelwells! Sopru campers were not perfect however; they were recalled in the early 1970s for fitting roof mounting screws that were too long and poked almost down through the headlining above the drivers head! You should not be able to feel mounting screws when you push the headliner up with your fingers.
I disagree about the auto - mine is an auto and is wonderful to drive in Sydney traffic. On the highway its overall gearing is almost the same as a manual. It does have a bit of a thirst for fuel, which I can live with. It can handle any slope I've thrown at it so far; only reverse doesn't really like a climb but it's fine in normal parking movements. Autos were only fitted to Type 4-based Kombis so this doesn't apply to low-lights.
VWCOOL 23 Windows of Awesome
5,158 posts · joined Jun 2003 ·
I'm not sure what poptop mine is, but it needs new seals - I will find the rubber profiles at Clark Rubber. The lift-up scissors need rebuilding (today's task, in fact).
No inspection hatch in mine and all the factory sheetmetal is unmolested (except for the poptop of course, and some rust). Most people I know - including me - travel with a backpack so I proabaly won't try to make it a pseudo home unit with wardrobes etc. Instead, I will try to build-in storage for a backpack or two.
I reckon I can install a 40-50L tank under the floor and I'll pipe it up with either a hand-pump or a 12V. Might fit a tap/external shower just inside the rear hatch
No inspection hatch in mine and all the factory sheetmetal is unmolested (except for the poptop of course, and some rust). Most people I know - including me - travel with a backpack so I proabaly won't try to make it a pseudo home unit with wardrobes etc. Instead, I will try to build-in storage for a backpack or two.
I reckon I can install a 40-50L tank under the floor and I'll pipe it up with either a hand-pump or a 12V. Might fit a tap/external shower just inside the rear hatch
Pay your debts, CxxT
Phil74Camper Head in the Clouds
2,703 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
We should be able to tell what top it is if you can post a photo. Yes Clark Rubber have a great range of generic rubber profiles, as well as the pinch welding that goes around the edge of the fibreglass.
Yes only the Type 4 engine Kombis had top engine hatches, so that won't affect your interior layout or access to the engine bay. Glad to hear your sheetmetal is unmolested so far - another reason to preserve that baby!
I find that 20 litres of water from the jerry can tank under the sink is plenty, but it's nice to have more. I think Camec sell flat caravan-type water tanks, in metal or poly. If you have water you'll need a sink. Camec stock caravan ones, but they are bigger than VW ones. Early Soprus just had a square stainless sink, around 40 x 30cm, set into the laminate chipboard top (not good). Later ones had a much bigger stainless pressing, around 100 x 30 cm, which included a sink, drainage board and flat work area (or where the optional 240V hotplate went). That's the one to get if you can. As you mount the sink at waist height, just below the window line, you might as well build a storage cupboard unit for it to mount to. I have the fold-out table mounted onto that.
Yes you may not need a wardrobe configured for hanging space, but it is amazing how much storage space you need when you get away for a few days. Whatever storage space you build (whether shelves, cupboards or wardrobe), you will use. That's why caravans have so many storage areas - camping stuff tends to breed.
Yes only the Type 4 engine Kombis had top engine hatches, so that won't affect your interior layout or access to the engine bay. Glad to hear your sheetmetal is unmolested so far - another reason to preserve that baby!
I find that 20 litres of water from the jerry can tank under the sink is plenty, but it's nice to have more. I think Camec sell flat caravan-type water tanks, in metal or poly. If you have water you'll need a sink. Camec stock caravan ones, but they are bigger than VW ones. Early Soprus just had a square stainless sink, around 40 x 30cm, set into the laminate chipboard top (not good). Later ones had a much bigger stainless pressing, around 100 x 30 cm, which included a sink, drainage board and flat work area (or where the optional 240V hotplate went). That's the one to get if you can. As you mount the sink at waist height, just below the window line, you might as well build a storage cupboard unit for it to mount to. I have the fold-out table mounted onto that.
Yes you may not need a wardrobe configured for hanging space, but it is amazing how much storage space you need when you get away for a few days. Whatever storage space you build (whether shelves, cupboards or wardrobe), you will use. That's why caravans have so many storage areas - camping stuff tends to breed.
VWCOOL 23 Windows of Awesome
5,158 posts · joined Jun 2003 ·
There's a pic on the first page... after taking a look at some other Kombis, mine appears the same so I reckon it's the 'factory' jobbie. What does Sopru mean Phil? Can you give us a brief history? U2U if you wishPhil74Camper wrote:We should be able to tell what top it is if you can post a photo.
Pay your debts, CxxT
rocknrob Insano Dub Head
844 posts · joined Dec 2003 ·
sopru...conversion mob that did campmobiles for VW australia...revered in some circles😂
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cram Officially Full-On Dubber
368 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
I'll eventually do the same - update a 74 camper - for family camping.
my idea is:
a rock n roll type bed in the back
a single chair/storage behind the drivers seat
a fold out table between the two.
sink and stove will be outside - can't think of anything worse than cooking etc in the car.
a roll out awning for shade.
so the inside will be similar to the current vw "beach" campers but using a air-cooled '74.
my idea is:
a rock n roll type bed in the back
a single chair/storage behind the drivers seat
a fold out table between the two.
sink and stove will be outside - can't think of anything worse than cooking etc in the car.
a roll out awning for shade.
so the inside will be similar to the current vw "beach" campers but using a air-cooled '74.
VWCOOL 23 Windows of Awesome
5,158 posts · joined Jun 2003 ·
Pay your debts, CxxT
cram Officially Full-On Dubber
368 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
This is just about spot on:
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=67170&page=2
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=67170&page=2
VWCOOL 23 Windows of Awesome
5,158 posts · joined Jun 2003 ·
yeah but it still needs the roof cut for the pop-top 😂
Pay your debts, CxxT
VWCOOL 23 Windows of Awesome
5,158 posts · joined Jun 2003 ·
What's the opinions on 240V power? Do those that have it, ever use it? I think it would be good to save gas (boiling the kettle) when in a tourist park...
How do I *legally* wire it up?
How do I *legally* wire it up?
Pay your debts, CxxT
rocknrob Insano Dub Head
844 posts · joined Dec 2003 ·
if you're going to camp at powered sites just carry an extension lead...then you can use your toaster and hairdryer🤘
Calcool Fahrvergnugen
965 posts · joined May 2005 ·
I always thought Kimm Garland at Indian was on to a good thing with his stretch Kombi then you would have all the room you would need, even room for a spa.
You should be able to write some of the resto off on tax as you would no doubt be driving this Kombi to far off exotic photo shhots for your work???
Cheers,
David
You should be able to write some of the resto off on tax as you would no doubt be driving this Kombi to far off exotic photo shhots for your work???
Cheers,
David
donn Wolfsburg Elder
3,515 posts · joined Nov 2005 ·
How do I *legally* wire it up?
well to start off with you would need to be a licenced electrician and I seem to remember that there is a special licence required to wire motor vehicles and caravans etc.
well to start off with you would need to be a licenced electrician and I seem to remember that there is a special licence required to wire motor vehicles and caravans etc.
I dream of a day when a chicken can cross a road without being asked for it's motive!
Andy Andy\'s Adventures
2,820 posts · joined Nov 2002 ·
I decided o keep mine as a (Deluxe) micro bus and have easy to install cupboard/bed. ~20min on my own to convert from 9 seater to camper.
Interior as a camper is basically a cupbards from the back forwards, level with the rear deck. That is the base for the bed (queen size).
There's just walking room between the front seats and cupbards. Front seats swivel to face backwards, and cupbard top becomes bench top for those rainy days.
I have the cooker as a unit I slide out, it's fully self contained an allows cooking outside of car (I hate sleeping with dinner smells lingering).
Roll out awning with sides makes for living room (2.5x3.5m).
Everything bolts to stock seat/seat belt mounts, so no mods to original bus!
A few nice extras were 6A solar panel, 45L extra fuel and 45L water tank. Full length roof rack for added insulation, and with awning both sides keeps car cool inside in summer, Engle fridge, two spare wheels, magnetic curtains with flyscreens etc.
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=21916&page=1
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=4445&page=1
I'd have to write a small novel for all the work done in the ~4 years getting ready for our 6 month round Oz trip. 4 years later the only things I'd re-do would be make it all much lighter and make the awning detachable.
The only down side now is I set it all up for two or three people, now as a family of 4 I will be re-making the camping bit soon.
Interior as a camper is basically a cupbards from the back forwards, level with the rear deck. That is the base for the bed (queen size).
There's just walking room between the front seats and cupbards. Front seats swivel to face backwards, and cupbard top becomes bench top for those rainy days.
I have the cooker as a unit I slide out, it's fully self contained an allows cooking outside of car (I hate sleeping with dinner smells lingering).
Roll out awning with sides makes for living room (2.5x3.5m).
Everything bolts to stock seat/seat belt mounts, so no mods to original bus!
A few nice extras were 6A solar panel, 45L extra fuel and 45L water tank. Full length roof rack for added insulation, and with awning both sides keeps car cool inside in summer, Engle fridge, two spare wheels, magnetic curtains with flyscreens etc.
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=21916&page=1
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=4445&page=1
I'd have to write a small novel for all the work done in the ~4 years getting ready for our 6 month round Oz trip. 4 years later the only things I'd re-do would be make it all much lighter and make the awning detachable.
The only down side now is I set it all up for two or three people, now as a family of 4 I will be re-making the camping bit soon.
Phil74Camper Head in the Clouds
2,703 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
Stock VW Sopru Campmobiles had the 240V input mounted on the left rear quarter, a 15-amp (large earth plug) socket with a spring flap over it. These are are standard part and are still available brand new at Camec.
The 240V was used to power the 3-way fridge (to keep it cold at caravan parks), via a two-socket power point near the front of the sliding door. L had aoprus, a 240V hotplate next to the sink. There was also a 240V powerpoint fitted near the sink for plugging in 240V accessories.
It's a pretty simple wiring job but yes it should be done by a licenced electrician. I am not aware of any additional requirements, but ring Camec or Trakka for advice; whatever applies to caravans should also apply to campervans.
The 240V was used to power the 3-way fridge (to keep it cold at caravan parks), via a two-socket power point near the front of the sliding door. L had aoprus, a 240V hotplate next to the sink. There was also a 240V powerpoint fitted near the sink for plugging in 240V accessories.
It's a pretty simple wiring job but yes it should be done by a licenced electrician. I am not aware of any additional requirements, but ring Camec or Trakka for advice; whatever applies to caravans should also apply to campervans.
VWCOOL 23 Windows of Awesome
5,158 posts · joined Jun 2003 ·
What I should have said was, what are the requirements for legal 240V wiring?donn wrote:How do I *legally* wire it up?
well to start off with you would need to be a licenced electrician and I seem to remember that there is a special licence required to wire motor vehicles and caravans etc.
'Big Pin' socket under a flap, earth to vehicle body, circuit breaker...
Can the wiring be run under the floor, or must it be internal to vehicle body? Must it be run in a separate conduit?
Surprisingly, this info is difficult to find
I will be 'roughing in' the wiring (extension cord) to specs, then get a leccy feller to actually wire the power points
Pay your debts, CxxT
Phil74Camper Head in the Clouds
2,703 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
Don't use extension cord (3-core mains flex) lead! It is a requirement to use 15A 240V wire, like normal household wiring. Use the standard 240V AC mains cable, twin/earth wiring, in the stiff white plastic shield. You can buy it at Jaycar, or at electrician supply stores. No it doesn't need a separate conduit, it is just runs through the cavities as approriate - just like house wiring sits in the wall cavities. Don't run it under the floor or outside the vehicle.
From the standard left rear external 240V input, the power supply is split. One mains cable runs up inside to where the rear hatch hinge is. In a factory camper this area is covered by the internal rear storage shelf, with the cable running across the rear of the shelf, inside the vehicle. It then goes into the body cavity above the windows (covered by roof lining), and runs to the front of the right rear cupboard, where it terminates to a standard powerpoint. Later Soprus had an additional extension down to the hotplate below.
The other lead simply runs from the external input forward along the passenger side to the front of the sliding door, where it terminates in a double power point. This is where the fridge plugs in, as the fridge 240V cable simply reaches up behind the passenger seat and plugs in. The fridge is not 'hard wired' in.
I only learned all this when I pulled mine apart when I was rebuilding it, so I rebuilt it the same way.
From the standard left rear external 240V input, the power supply is split. One mains cable runs up inside to where the rear hatch hinge is. In a factory camper this area is covered by the internal rear storage shelf, with the cable running across the rear of the shelf, inside the vehicle. It then goes into the body cavity above the windows (covered by roof lining), and runs to the front of the right rear cupboard, where it terminates to a standard powerpoint. Later Soprus had an additional extension down to the hotplate below.
The other lead simply runs from the external input forward along the passenger side to the front of the sliding door, where it terminates in a double power point. This is where the fridge plugs in, as the fridge 240V cable simply reaches up behind the passenger seat and plugs in. The fridge is not 'hard wired' in.
I only learned all this when I pulled mine apart when I was rebuilding it, so I rebuilt it the same way.
VWCOOL 23 Windows of Awesome
5,158 posts · joined Jun 2003 ·
Thanks Phil but I wish to conform to 'new' specs, including circuit breaker. I also need to know about 240V in-vehicle wiring regs for another vehicle I am working on. Like the VW, it will require wiring in 'wet' areas outside the confines of the bodyshell
I will probably install a 'hidden' socket to operate a mains-powered 12V battery charger, too, for my dual battery system
I will probably install a 'hidden' socket to operate a mains-powered 12V battery charger, too, for my dual battery system
Pay your debts, CxxT
aggri1 Insano Dub Head
824 posts · joined Dec 2003 ·
I would recommend against a stove-in-the-bus. I find it too gross for cooking in the Bus, except maybe to boil water for a cuppa. I just have a standard camping stove I take along, and set up outside. It doesn't rain that much. 🤪
As far as sinks go... every bus I've seen with a sink have suffered (perhaps not the best examples of busses). There will always be spillt water and some goes under the boards/flooring. Again, I just take along a small bucket and wash stuff outside. A plastic "multi-tub" (as I call it) can do just about anything. Get a rectangular one rather than round so it packs better.
I am happy to sleep on the floor on some camping foam mats, so I have no bed in the Bus.
I have just about no camping equipment in my bus at all actually. I prefer the space and flexibility, and would prefer to do most things outside, anyway, while camping. Makes the Bus lighter, I can move more stuff when I need to, etc...
So I'd second the 'drive-in' bus concept. Keep it simple. Flexibilty. (Not much help here am I?).
Good luck dude, A.
EDIT:
As far as sinks go... every bus I've seen with a sink have suffered (perhaps not the best examples of busses). There will always be spillt water and some goes under the boards/flooring. Again, I just take along a small bucket and wash stuff outside. A plastic "multi-tub" (as I call it) can do just about anything. Get a rectangular one rather than round so it packs better.
I am happy to sleep on the floor on some camping foam mats, so I have no bed in the Bus.
I have just about no camping equipment in my bus at all actually. I prefer the space and flexibility, and would prefer to do most things outside, anyway, while camping. Makes the Bus lighter, I can move more stuff when I need to, etc...
So I'd second the 'drive-in' bus concept. Keep it simple. Flexibilty. (Not much help here am I?).
Good luck dude, A.
EDIT:
VWCOOL 23 Windows of Awesome
5,158 posts · joined Jun 2003 ·
err... no![i (Not much help here am I?).
]
I have been stuck in a vehicle overnight in crappy weather so I appreciate being able to cook inside... Then being able to go to bed without placing so much as a foot outside... That's why Kombis are cool
Pay your debts, CxxT
Phil74Camper Head in the Clouds
2,703 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
No worries, I don't know the current 240V requirements as I only rebuilt my Kombi exactly as it was wired (by Sopru) in 1974. I guess what was legal then would not be legal now (same with the way the LPG was plumbed).
One of the best sources for conversion ideas is the Caravan and Camping shows. The Sydney one is at Rosehill Racecourse once a year. Great to wander and sticky beak in all the factory caravans and campervans, from the small camper trailers to the huge winnebago-style buses and everything in between. You are bound to come up with a few ideas. Not sure when the next one is though.
As for the 'layout', I can only say that there is no point in trying to reinvent the wheel. Use the VW factory campers as a starting point and improve from there. Campmobile sinks don't leak, have plenty of storage underneath and are super convenient. Likewise the rear seat folds into a very comfortable double bed, which beats sleeping on the floor. In a drizzly roadside area on a cool evening, or a warm sandy patch beside the beach, with the roof up and a cool breeze blowing through, I know I would much rather be in a properly fitted-out Campmobile than a semi-converted Microbus with plastic bins everywhere!
One of the best sources for conversion ideas is the Caravan and Camping shows. The Sydney one is at Rosehill Racecourse once a year. Great to wander and sticky beak in all the factory caravans and campervans, from the small camper trailers to the huge winnebago-style buses and everything in between. You are bound to come up with a few ideas. Not sure when the next one is though.
As for the 'layout', I can only say that there is no point in trying to reinvent the wheel. Use the VW factory campers as a starting point and improve from there. Campmobile sinks don't leak, have plenty of storage underneath and are super convenient. Likewise the rear seat folds into a very comfortable double bed, which beats sleeping on the floor. In a drizzly roadside area on a cool evening, or a warm sandy patch beside the beach, with the roof up and a cool breeze blowing through, I know I would much rather be in a properly fitted-out Campmobile than a semi-converted Microbus with plastic bins everywhere!
rocknrob Insano Dub Head
844 posts · joined Dec 2003 ·
you are spot on! that is the ultimate reason why campmobiles are so good.VWCOOL wrote:err... no![i (Not much help here am I?).
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I have been stuck in a vehicle overnight in crappy weather so I appreciate being able to cook inside... Then being able to go to bed without placing so much as a foot outside... That's why Kombis are cool
I got bogged once on a sandy track late in the arv...by the time i frigged around a bit it was dark...so i cooked a steak opened the fridge for a cold beer or two and went to bed. next morning at first light i was on my way...kombi style👍
VWCOOL 23 Windows of Awesome
5,158 posts · joined Jun 2003 ·
Sounds like my yarn! Digging in the morning with a fresh mind after a good night's sleep is much better than digging in the dark, in the rain, after a 14-hour day of being led past the point of no return by idiots, not having lunch or dinner, breaking a front diff and destroying the winch...rocknrob wrote:you are spot on! that is the ultimate reason why campmobiles are so good.VWCOOL wrote:err... no![i (Not much help here am I?).
]
I have been stuck in a vehicle overnight in crappy weather so I appreciate being able to cook inside... Then being able to go to bed without placing so much as a foot outside... That's why Kombis are cool
I got bogged once on a sandy track late in the arv...by the time i frigged around a bit it was dark...so i cooked a steak opened the fridge for a cold beer or two and went to bed. next morning at first light i was on my way...kombi style👍
Oh, it wasn't a Kombi
So yes having and internal stve - but one that can be used outside the van - is top of my list that now includes:
2-seater, extra-single bed (1200mm wide)
Fridge with lift lid to double as a dining seat
Dual batteries with 240V backup charging
Tucker box - also doubles as a dining seat
Island table (removable for out-of-car use)
Internal sink/undercar water storage
Vinyl-backed canvas poptop canopy with midge-proof mesh and internal roll-down 'clears'
Skylight/vent with internal midge-proof screen above bed
Day-use backpack storage shelf inside pop-top
Cargo net style storage above bed
Overhead console above drivers' seat for map storage
Detatchable midge-proof mesh panel for tailgate opening
Hand-held shower inside tailgate
LED lights above sink, stove with reading lights above bed
Varnished timber furniture finish with 'beach house' yellow and blue trim
keep the ideas coming folks
Pay your debts, CxxT
rocknrob Insano Dub Head
844 posts · joined Dec 2003 ·
yeah i've got an idea...you keep packing weight into a kombi so whats stopping you? hehe...otherwords have you thought about your brakes? haha...not taking the piss but i think its funny😂
anyway check these out...happy to share any info if interested👍
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anyway check these out...happy to share any info if interested👍
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VWCOOL 23 Windows of Awesome
5,158 posts · joined Jun 2003 ·
it'll be lighter than 'original'
And no, my brakes won't look like that:
Mine will be slotted!
And no, my brakes won't look like that:
Mine will be slotted!
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Pay your debts, CxxT