i rebuilded my motor finally put it on took me a day and a night... finally got it in.. ran the engine in.. took it for a drive... just when i got into 4th.. i felt the grinding vibration coming thru the shifter and the clutch.. this happened just this evening (friday)... i turned the car off pushed it back about a km.
oh and i tried started it the starter cranked over but the engine was sitting still
lets have a guess what's wrong and how much damage it would have caused. just need other opinion before i take the engine out and cry like a school girl
my guess.. flywheel bolt wasn't tight enough (i even broke the half in drive tighing it in)
Think you are right. Sometimes throw out bearing falling off or clulch pressure plate failure can make some horrible noises, but if starter sounds like it's engaging and the crank is not turning........mmm not good news!
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
yes on that note...
the answer will be reveal saturday night along with delicious hurtful photo would the crank still be ok?
stay tuned for the answer
maybe crank broken in half🙁..........
but hey, could be better news😀
jsheppard64 wrote:my guess.. flywheel bolt wasn't tight enough (i even broke the half in drive tighing it in)
That'd be my guess too, but hope for your sake it isn't.
For next time get yourself a good 3/4 inch drive socket and bar... the gland nut needs to be 254 ft/lb, which is A LOT more than a 1/2 inch drive will safely/regularly tolerate.
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the answer is...
flywheel gland nut.
i broke another 1/2" getting it in.. so i got my dad to do the cave man's way which was weld the socket onto the 1 1/4 3mm thick and used that...
since i got the cheater bar extended it to 1 yard (3ft)
tightened it as hard as i could by hand and then i (50kg... 110oddlbs) stood on the end of the bar so by the definition i've got 330ft lbs on the bolt
but then i kinda jump on it a bit just to be sure..
so i guess i won't really need the proper 3/4" drive I got my own custom made 1/1/4 drive😁
it wasn't fun the second time 🙁
here're some photos
notice the bell housing was grinded by the flywheel teeth
not good but could have been worse
the engine that cost me over $1000
too tight, eh?
Pay your debts, CxxT
hellbugged wrote:maybe crank broken in half🙁..........
but hey, could be better news😀
funny that, i found out thro experience they'll still run even with a broken crank
will just get u home if its not to far but with a nice sewing machine note to it tho
🤪Joel wrote:hellbugged wrote:maybe crank broken in half🙁..........
but hey, could be better news😀
funny that, i found out thro experience they'll still run even with a broken crank
will just get u home if its not to far but with a nice sewing machine note to it tho
🤪
yeah, mine turned over like a rocket on the starter.......then trying to turn the motor over with the fan belt, still had loads of compression...........i hoped it was the flywheel loose too, until the begining of teardown revieled several holes in the top of the crank case
🥲mm when the flywheel came off the oil kinda splashed into the clutch plate and now my clutch slips... and smokes
also does anyone knows sort of jets i shoulc run on a progressive? it puffs smoke 3000+ rpm
i got main 130 127
air corrector 160 150
and the shop doesn't have anything smaller well.. in stock that is
jsheppard64 wrote:mm when the flywheel came off the oil kinda splashed into the clutch plate and now my clutch slips... and smokes
also does anyone knows sort of jets i shoulc run on a progressive? it puffs smoke 3000+ rpm
i got main 130 127
air corrector 160 150
and the shop doesn't have anything smaller well.. in stock that is
did you clean it all with "clutch and pressure plate" aerosol?
jsheppard64 wrote:also does anyone knows sort of jets i shoulc run on a progressive? it puffs smoke 3000+ rpm
i got main 130 127
air corrector 160 150
When i ran my prog it was something like
Primary / Secondary
Idles 50 / 55
Mains 130 / 135
Airs 185 / 180 - could have been bigger. TOO long ago
What do you mean it puffs smoke
If it was rich it would back fire
lean it would sneeze
Your secondary main should be larger than primary main by one size
I reckon your airs are WAY to small - ie too rich.
Remember these do air not fuel
Have a read hear
http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/carburetor_set_up_and_lean_best_.htm
and here
http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/jetting.htmFutue te ipsum!!!
jsheppard64 wrote:here're some photos
]
just asking
Is the plate and rubber seperating on the left hand siide of the left hand engine mount??
Futue te ipsum!!!
thanks for the jets info
it's possible that the rubber may have been cracked.. somehow probably have to replace it when i have the clutch pressure plate done 🙁
maybe next pay spend it all on the car 🙁
New engine mounts are cheap 🙂
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
i know that i was just making this face >> 🙁
because engine removal wasn't so effortless
and that bolt that goes thru from starter motor out behind flywheel where u have to put the nut in always piss me off.. last time i did it i taped it in so the bolt doesn't get pushed back while i'm screwing the nut in 🙂
so i replaced the engine mounts cleaned the clutch plate and now the driveline is good...
and i thought while i have it out i'll adjust the tappets coz it was rattling since the first start. adjusted it to haynes manual it was like .25 something rather can't remember..put the engine back in went for a drive... n' it still rattles. so next day adjusted them again just to check went for another drive still rattles
i couldn't take it so i adjusted so it to like 0.04 and omg it still rattles...
what could it be?? follower clearence was 1.4 mm when i had the case splitted
it gets really annoying and it makes me think that something is going to go wrong and i'd have to tow the car home
I hope they are the old engine mounts...
the left one doesn't look too good...
Yes, the Gland nut needs to be done up with a 3/4 drive socket and bar plus 3ft or 1 metre of pipe over the bar
and swing on it, jump on it etc...
I snapped off My Sons New Sidchrome 1/2 inch drive bar
trying to undo it.... lol
You can buy a product called "Brakleen" not sure of the spelling but it will clean up the clutch plate...
LEE
PS: the marks in the bellhousing from the flywheel teeth won't hurt it...
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68AutoBug wrote:I hope they are the old engine mounts...
the left one doesn't look too good...
Yes, the Gland nut needs to be done up with a 3/4 drive socket and bar plus 3ft or 1 metre of pipe over the bar
and swing on it, jump on it etc...
I snapped off My Sons New Sidchrome 1/2 inch drive bar
trying to undo it.... lol
the problem with 1/2" drive and all the other drives are removable from socket. i fixed that problem in my drive.. it was a 1/2" with the socket on it the 1/2" was a custom made (the shaft was made out of an old drive shaft and all the spline was gone lol and i welded the socket on to the shaft and it had never since broken again : )
before the engine rebuild i got about 20 ins/Hg of vac idling
it was standard 1600 with progressive carb
and now i got about 10 ins/Hg idling
could this be the result of the cam and the ratio rockers?
i did check for the leak in the manifold and there's no leak anywhere
is this something to worry about? or it's the consequence of the cam??
