Howdy all, been playing about trying to get my single port working great, had a few issues here it wouldn't idle and was womping from side to side. So i guessed it was the valves.. which was correct.
now i took it for a spin around the block (no exhaust) and she felt gutless, like nothing there and didn't seem to make much difference when i accelerated, but i did get quite a bit of popping(again keep in mind no exhaust).
Now main question is .006 the right spacing? when measuring the spacing i made sure it felt like a knife through margarine, now is this right, what can i expect to feel if the valves are too tight or too loose?
-Marc
cam maybe worn thus not opening the valves fully, even with the correct gap?
Customer service is not dead in Australia.
Always after HAZET & MATRA & VW factory tools
if you are unsure if you have them set correct,
get a .008 and that shouldn't go thru, .004 should fly through the gap after you've set them
no exhaust???..............YES YES that will make the car gutless under acceleration and make it pop and crackle🙅!!!!!!
FORGET making an analysis with no exhaust - even a minor exhaust leak on one pipe is enough to slow 'em down!
There were different specs for different engines and years but if you have metric, 0.15mm works for me
Pay your debts, CxxT
Yeah, don't mistake .006mm for .006".
You want 0.15mm or .006"(six thou).
Also make sure you do it on TDC-firing for each cylinder.
If you do it on TDC-overlap you will be very slow.
You can go a little tighter at .004",
but you must do regular checks to keep it in check.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
dangerous wrote:Yeah, don't mistake .006mm for .006".
You want 0.15mm or .006"(six thou).
Also make sure you do it on TDC-firing for each cylinder.
If you do it on TDC-overlap you will be very slow.
You can go a little tighter at .004",
but you must do regular checks to keep it in check.
Good point Dave, an easy trap for young players.
Thanks for all your comments guys. Now TDC... what i did is start with the mark on the pulley and turned (1 revolution) till cyl 1's rockers didn't move when i jiggled the wheel, is this the best way to go about this? or is there another magical way? can you define TDC overlap is that when cyl 2 or 4 are firing?
Also will hope to get a new exhaust as soon as i can, old one has hole in it and new one doesn't clear the oil filter.
thanks in advance again.
TDC-firing on #1 would be TDC-overlap on #3
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Drivers side towards the front of the car is #1.
Follow the spark plug wire back up to the Dizzy.
With the cap off, turn the engine over until the rotor button is pointed at the post that lead goes to. The rotor should be facing notch in the dizzy where the cap sits on.
Now make sure your top dead line on the pulley lines up with the case.
Now you set the #1 cylinder valves.
Wind the engine over counter clockwise, until the rotor is 45 degress around from your number 1 position.
Now set the #2 cylinder valves (drivers side towards the rear)
Wind counter clockwise again 45 degrees, and the pulley notch should line up again with the case.
Now set #3 valves.
Wind another 45deg counter clockwise
Now set #4 valves.
If the engine was not running, you can make sure you are doing the correct cylinder, by checking the two rocker arms on the opposing cylinder to which you want to adjust are ' on the rock', so inlet and exhaust will both be moving, one opening and one closing.
And put that exhaust on, should make a world of difference.
Check your point gap too while your in there with the feeler guages!
or dizzy rotor 90 degrees (half engine degrees)
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
cool will give this another go tomorrow afternoon or on the weekend.
Gave it a go tonight, had a little problem with turning it anti clockwise (bolt came undone on the generator :P) but it all worked great rotor was pointing at cyl1 and all 😀.
Whats the advised point gap?
But the best bit of advicer and it seems common sence looking at it was to check it with the next gauge up (which was a .008) made my life easier and she sounds better, will test when i can {to many cars ont he road to test right now}.
Thanks everyone.
point gap is .016"
Well thanks all, took her for a run around the block, with the original (hollow) exhaust and the correct spacing she seemed to love it, i do have a knocking/clicking sound i will try and get it on video and post it, im not sure but i think because the valves were so tight before they may be burnt but i will post and if you guys could help that would be great 😉
I will also grab a compression tester in th next week or so.. But thanks again to everyones help, i'm learning a shipload.
