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lowering the front outer splines?

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MrScooter Seriously Crusin Dubber

157 posts · joined Sep 2006 ·

#689251
ok now i've lowered the front by moving the inner splines- too easy!

but whats involved with adjusting the outer ones?

i'm lead to believe you get less adjustment/drop with the outer splines? is this true?

cause the right side sags by about 1/2 of an inch. and i want to straighten her up a bit.

thanks in advance mick.

1500S Custom Title Time!

1,418 posts · joined Mar 2005 ·

#689342
Inner has 29 splines, outer has 31 splines. The torsion arm should have a standard unloaded angle dangle of 39 deg +/- 30 minutes if I remember correctly. When lowering, BOTH sides should be checked with a protractor for accuracy with each other, otherwise you could have handling problems (worse than they normally are!!). To use a protractor (combination set protractor ), you need a round piece of material the same diameter as the torsion arm bearing diameter x about 25mm long and a hole the diameter of the lower shock mount stud. This ensures the angle setting is correct. Are you sure that it is the front which is causing the right side to sag??

DH

VWCOOL 23 Windows of Awesome

5,158 posts · joined Jun 2003 ·

#689350
Jack the car in the centre of the front beam to see if it is the rear suspension that is causing the sag...?

I don't recall the outer splines being difficult on my Type 3 years ago, mine was down on one side too
Pay your debts, CxxT

MrScooter Seriously Crusin Dubber

157 posts · joined Sep 2006 ·

#689416
ok could be the rear sagging, but i would like to know what needs to be done to move the outer splines?

i guess its similar to the inner but i see a bot/nut arrangement on the bottom of the swingarm at the torsion end. the nut comes off but the threaded end looks like it screws into the torsion/ spline bit. the bolt looks like it has a hex head to remove it...

does any of this make sence??????

i'm guessing that an allen key would remove this then the swing arm should come off??

i want to make sure that i'm going the right way about doing this before i go too far..

izac Wolfsburg Wizard

508 posts · joined Jun 2008 ·

#689428
yeah you loosen the the bigger bolt where the trailing arm connects to the torsion housing/rod... these can be pretty stiff and apparently can brake? mine was alright though

then you pull the lower trailing arm out in the same way - make sure you have the inner spline bolt tight so only the outer moves and u dont disengage them both.

you might have to adjust outer up one then ineer down one, and repeat a couple of times to get it about right... can be pretty fiddly

good luck man 😎

MrScooter Seriously Crusin Dubber

157 posts · joined Sep 2006 ·

#689470
thanks thats what i needed to know. lets see how low we can go..
are you guys going to the event formally known as 'the dubs by the pub' in feb?

Peter_D_C Seriously Crusin Dubber

102 posts · joined Jun 2008 ·

#689545
Might bloody well have too if you blokes are going 😂😂
1969 Type 3 Squareback

MY68VW Seriously Crusin Dubber

181 posts · joined Aug 2006 ·

#689680
After lowering the front of mine it seemed to be uneven but once I drove it it looked to even out . Every now and then it looks out but I put it down to the way I've pulled up.
Tuned Type IV power - shaking out the rust.

MrScooter Seriously Crusin Dubber

157 posts · joined Sep 2006 ·

#689814
well it definently is lower on the drivers side by 1.5cm ish......
could be just 30years of more weight on that side?

izac Wolfsburg Wizard

508 posts · joined Jun 2008 ·

#689817
yeah that is quite possible... torsion bar sag

MrScooter Seriously Crusin Dubber

157 posts · joined Sep 2006 ·

#689862
we all start to sag after 30yrs or so

izac Wolfsburg Wizard

508 posts · joined Jun 2008 ·

#689931
😂 guess so, im not there yet so wouldnt know.... 😀