Could someone give me some advice about sticking with the standard points over the new electronic system? I have a 68 beetle 1500 that has a good strong engine that I use as a daily work car. I had someone say too me that for reliability the new system is the way to go, and others say that the points are fine, just keep having them re set every 3 months or when the its getting hard to start? Will i burn my points out sooner because of driving everyday?
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
bbgo wrote:Could someone give me some advice about sticking with the standard points over the new electronic system? I have a 68 beetle 1500 that has a good strong engine that I use as a daily work car. I had someone say too me that for reliability the new system is the way to go, and others say that the points are fine, just keep having them re set every 3 months or when the its getting hard to start? Will i burn my points out sooner because of driving everyday?
Your points rubbing block will wear down the more the engine is used,...
best to learn how to time the engine and adjust the points... Points also can burn.. as there is current flowing thru them... remembering how fast they open and shut...
I replaced My condensor with an electronic ignition kit I built... it puts a lot more Voltage into the coil but only a very small amount thru the points... so they don't burn...
the rubbing block still wears down and the points need adjusting every now & then... but I found the distributor hasn't needed moving, just the points adjusted...
So, this kit is a compromise... I still have points...
which get adjusted every 6 months as i don't drive it every day...
but I noticed MORE power from the engine...
something I didn't expect....
and the engine starts first turn every time...
The electronic ignition without points means you don't ever touch the points as You don't have any....
I have the Scorcher dizzy
Great set up
No problems at all - uses all standard Bosch caps, rotors and modules
Only thing against it is it still uses a rotor and cap
reckon if i went again i would use one of the 4 coil pack ones i have seen and get rid of the rotor and cap
thanks everybody for all your info, where is the place to get a good set up? I like the sound of the no points set up like the petronix II, but in the mean time i am getting a tune up on saturday where i can sit along side the bloke and learn how to set timing and watch the new points go in and so on, ive only had my dub about 9 months! I like the pic of the velocity stack!
68AutoBugBeetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --
DirkHedde wrote:how does your home made system work lee? i like your velocity stack.
Hi.
it was a Dick Smith kit...
I bought it years ago but never put it in until last year...
only a very small amount of current flows thru the points but then its changed into HIGH VOltage into the coil...
You can't use a GT40 coil as they usually burn out... with the high Voltage...
so a normal standard coil works great...
so, all it does is take a small signal from the points and then sends a high voltage into the coil...
it does this electronically...
Lee
PS: the velocity stack was already written on the photo..
I'm now using a standard VW air filter... Lee
Good quality goes for points also. German Beru points installed on the kombi at re-build were still working fine when I replaced them at 60,000km, adjusted maybe 3 times in those klms, no reliability or starting issues. Not many (if any?) Bosch points are good quality anymore.
Still more maintenance than electronic, but I'm happy with them.
Andy wrote:Good quality goes for points also. German Beru points installed on the kombi at re-build were still working fine when I replaced them at 60,000km, adjusted maybe 3 times in those klms, no reliability or starting issues. Not many (if any?) Bosch points are good quality anymore.
Still more maintenance than electronic, but I'm happy with them.
Yes,
I use Beru spark plugs too...
the good points have bakelite rubbing block..
many nowdays have a bit of plastic that wears out much sooner...
don't forget to use grease on the rubbing block
I have a set of points here that came with the small packet of grease for the rubbing block, plus it has a piece of cardboard between the points...
I don't know what that does...
Bosch part number 1 237 013 057
to fit : VW 111 998 063
Lee
PS: what the actual points are made from would be important too.. some burn easily...
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
I've been considering going the DIY route. Partially because I suspect that the stock dissy advance is completely out of whack for my setup. It's nothing fancy, but it has a nonstandard carb and I don't want to mess with porting a vacuum signal line for optimal calibration.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
BizarreModeratorThe artist formerly known as blue74l
aintgotitmusthaveit wrote:Hi guys I got one of those empi acufire units .
Have not installed it yet.
Do people's experience with this indicate reliable??
yeah - they reliably fail 🤪
They are ok but dont expaect them to last
I saw a coil pack on a motor VVDS had at the nationals last year
aintgotitmusthaveit wrote:Hi guys I got one of those empi acufire units .
Have not installed it yet.
Do people's experience with this indicate reliable??
unfortunatley thats one of the ones that died on me plus a mate had one die as well, both in less than 6 months
the amount of threads on thesamba also saying this is also confirms the age old saying buy once, cry once
that said the very first cheapy one i bought (cant remember what breed but wasnt empi) is still going well in the old mans trike after 8 years...TOUCH WOOD
Hi guys , very new to this whole Air cooled thing.
I would like to change to an electronic ignition system.The local VW repair shop are very reluctant to install a system for me saying stay with the points.
That's fine but its costing heaps as the points keep burning out.
One shops accuses another of cheap points. Either way i feel electronic must have more advantages than disadvantages. I'm in Victoria so who do i go and see to buy a unit and is this something i can do myself with little experience.
I have a 1982 Air Cooled transporter..
BizarreModeratorThe artist formerly known as blue74l
Hi and thks for the reply. i have no idea what dizzy is on it at the moment...How do i find out.
You said yours has stock electronic iginition??? i didn't know they cam out with electronic ignition.thought they were all points....or i have simply missread what your saying..
And as for changing points ...Nope never done it but i would like to have a go. Its costing heaps to get them done and really its the reason why i want to change to electronic. And also hoping to get a little better fuel economy.
BizarreModeratorThe artist formerly known as blue74l
Most important thing to remember to ensure long life of any brand of after market drop in system, is to NEVER leave the ignition on without the engine running, even for the shortest of intervals. If you need to do some testing on some part of the cars wiring, make sure that you pull off the wire(s) that go from the distributor to the coil first, doesn't matter which one, both will break the circuit.
I have also been using a compufire - for about 5 or 6 years. No problems except if you connect the wires the wrong way round when re-installing the engine - oops.
Well thanks guys, very much appreciate the replies and the links.
My 82 is getting about 17 ltrs/100 k...so yr right its very thristy.
My drama started yesterday after not driving it for about 3 months.
When its started almost first shot the lifters were bagging pretty bad. So i let it sit for some time at idle and they quietened a little but not a great deal. After letting it sit for maybe 15 minutes i thought i would go for a run around the block. Was going ok but wouldn't rev out which hadn't been a problem before.
I suspected maybe the points had closed up maybe from corrosion. What would i know anyway i'm just guessing as i know didly squat about these cars.
Anyway just about to turn a corner and its stopped. The engine wouldn't even turn over.
So today i will get one of my mates to give me a tow home.
So as its stands, I am hoping the points are shut....but even if they are welded shut should the engine still turn over? Sorry if i seem thick but i have not much of a clue here but reading as much as i can.
The points and the condenser i know this has been done each time.
Just before the van had been sitting for a few months i had it tuned yet again in less than 2 months from the previous guy. What does make me a little cross about getting it tuned is i say go over the whole thing and just fix it fuel lines whatever and each time i feel the work is a little wanting. So anyway the Points and condenser were replaced.
The reason why it sat was because i just bought another car and not sure what i wanted to do with the Van. I love the way this things drives but the fuel bill was huge.
Can someone tell me how i recognize what dizzy i have have too buy the right compufire system.....or is it a total replacement for the existing dizzy.
Once again thanks heaps for the help.
PS any place in particular i should get the compufire from??
i think its the compufire kits that i was warned about? are these the cheap ones you guys are talking about? i just got a pertonicks kit from another guy who had never fitted it so im going to give this kit a try and see how it goes. i have never used this sort of kit before but with only 2 wires i cant go wrong
hi guys I was about to look for forums that is actually talks about ignition points well i bumb into this forum and i was curious about the electronic points i was confuse what was the difference between the electronic with that ignition points and do Omix Ignition Points have a very good quality?
