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Rover V8 conversion

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btate8981 Learner Dubber

14 posts · joined Mar 2009 ·

#698060
Looking at putting a v8 into the next kitcar. Anyone got any information that will help me out?

Thanks in advance
B

pete wood 23 Windows of Awesome

6,828 posts · joined Jan 2004 ·

#698107
what kitcar? what configuration?

big thing is trans strength I guess. you might be best going with a porsche trans for all the money and trouble you will go through to make a kombi trans work reliably. I guess it depends how hard you drive it.

my questions is why a rover? why not a toyota? cheaper, newer and stronger.
"stoopid is stronger than axles"
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/

sinecure Want another... :(

1,031 posts · joined Mar 2006 ·

#698153
pete wood wrote:what kitcar? what configuration?

big thing is trans strength I guess. you might be best going with a porsche trans for all the money and trouble you will go through to make a kombi trans work reliably. I guess it depends how hard you drive it.

my questions is why a rover? why not a toyota? cheaper, newer and stronger.
Wot 'e said.

Most small V8's will physically fit in my type3 based kit easily, but as Pete said the transaxle will be your $$$ target if considering a big HP transplant.

Seem to remember someone told me that the standard type3 and beetle boxes are only reliable up to about max 120HP. I'm sure one of the other guys here will be able to clarify this.
A POSSE AD ESSE.

I live in my own little world, but it's okay, they know me here.

pete wood 23 Windows of Awesome

6,828 posts · joined Jan 2004 ·

#698278
Stock they are reliable up to 120hp with a VW motor. Beyond that the torque of other engine just destroys them. Literally pushes the crownwheel and pinion apart. You can build a tough type 1 case, but it's not cheap and the components are still on the small side. At best it would hold 250-300hp max. A highly worked kombi box will hold up to 500hp so I've been told. Again, you'd need to drive it with A LOT of sympathy to have it hold. Still I guess if you had some mechanical fuses in there like weaker CV joints it might work. Vehicle weight makes a lot of difference too.
"stoopid is stronger than axles"
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/

gazman Seriously Crusin Dubber

101 posts · joined Jun 2007 ·

#698346
Stock clutch is another good 'mechanical fuse' as it should fry before the box blows, and it's relatively easy and cheap to replace.
The V6 Lowlight, see the build at - http://osp.metrohosting.info/kombiv6.html

TheMiniMan Insano Dub Head

849 posts · joined Aug 2006 ·

#698793
welll,,, just my type of discussion hey??? :-) :-) :-)

Go for it i say mate,,, i have an Alloy V8 adaptor & flywheel assy here if you`re keen?

i ran a Leyland P76 alloy V8 (rovers big brother engine) in the back of my splitty Ute for years & years & years,,, only needed replacement oxes every 2 years (just threw in 2nd hand ones) of course they were all IRS late Kombi boxes after splitting 4x earlyl swing axle ones,,, smashing gears in 3x other swing axles, spitting a few diffs etc etc,,, but once i changed over to the late IRS kombi box & rear suspension we had very little trouble

However,,, in saying all that, i`ve recently been having major dramas holding 2L Kombi boxes up to my Kombi, & now have full brand new Albins after market gear kit & main shaft assy fitted,,, along with brand new Peloquin torque bias, planetary gear type Limited slip diff fitted & it all "seems" to be going well (So Far---> cross fingers)

But this thing is 1800kgs empty & i rarely drive it empty , nor do i drive it gently :-)

so,,, go for it i say... but just spend some decent bucks on the gear-box, diff, clutch, axles & CVs during the build ,,, a little preparation there will save you lots time, lots of grief,,, & lots of tow truck fees. :-) :-) :-)

Otherwise ,,, another way around it would be to use totally bald tyres so you don`t get any traction & therfor very little "LOAD" on the drive train & box

kevo Officially Full-On Dubber

371 posts · joined Mar 2005 ·

#711839
yer i love the rover engines. The major downfall is finding parts when they shit themselves, (water pumps etc......)

I rebuilt a 3.5L a few years ago and put it in my kombi and that stocko gearbox has been going fine, bulk metal shavings in the gearbox oil but never any dramas.
But like someone else said above, the clutch saves you a bit, i have an 1800 pound clutch i think (can't remember exactly its been ages since i drove it).

Dont run the SU carbs, they may have been good back in the day but after years of use they are fuct and its easier and so much cheaper to buy an edelbrock manifold and carby to suit, easier tuning then too.

They are fun but the are old dude. But seein as your obviously a kombi fan, age shouldn't be a worry hahaha,

The rover sounds amazing... i drive a 362rwkw F6 aswell and the sound of the rover puts it to shame
76 baywindow kombi - V8 & Weddle racing diff and gearbox
Daily driven beach cruiser

bajachris88 The international telephone dialing code for Antarctica is 6

6,661 posts · joined Apr 2005 ·

#711868
how does anyone go about legally setting one of these up on a type 1 chassis?

is it completely impossible?
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!

Joel Now containing 100\% E-Wang

9,368 posts · joined Feb 2006 ·

#711898
for a road going car or just an offroad toy?

beetles arent heavy enough to be legal with a v8
thats why they yellow one at all the QLD shows isnt registed

not only that the handling would be better with a bucket of shit in anything other than a straight line