Ive noticed left bank lifters are a bit sticky at start up. After a good drive the noise is gone or not detectable over engine noise anyway.
May have been my stupid mistake of both slightly low oil level and overdue oil change. This has been done now.
Is there any fix for sticky lifters? I have heard they are common fault in Subys. Hoping I will get by until the engine is pulled apart for head and cam work at the end of the year.
Cheers, Andrew
1971 Type 3 Fasty - EJ20T
I love 242HP sleepers. 🤪
How many sets of lights does it take a $229k Carrera S to learn? 😂 UPDATE: Cayman S, M3, B4 now added to the list.
drive it more 👍
Futue te ipsum!!!
maybe try some of that Wynns lifter free
😂🤪😂🤪😂
car forums. where a lot of peoples good intentions end up taking a good old car off the road forever never ever to see the road again. 🥲
Hi
I've never tried it, but an old mechanics trick is to drain the oil and fill the motor with Kero to give everything a good wash out, I think you can actually buy a special product to do this called engine flush.
Steve
Go to ur local auto store, nearly every one has lifter free up oil additive in like a 400ml bottle. Nulon and what not.
Do an oil change and throw it in with it. The stuffs good.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
You have a early RS liberty motor
The problem will come and go over time & there is nothing that can be done . You can change the heads out look for heads with the single bolt coil .
or just grab my N/A 2.5 motor and turbo that as it has late heads on it
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
PS , dont waste your $ on those heads !
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
seagull wrote:You have a early RS liberty motor
The problem will come and go over time & there is nothing that can be done . You can change the heads out look for heads with the single bolt coil .
or just grab my N/A 2.5 motor and turbo that as it has late heads on it
Neill, I actually have the first of the WRX motors with single bolt coil. Have heard the problem is more often with the RS motor. Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.................2.5 motor
😂
Have grabbed some Nulon stuff this afternoon and yes Barry, drive it more!
1971 Type 3 Fasty - EJ20T
I love 242HP sleepers. 🤪
How many sets of lights does it take a $229k Carrera S to learn? 😂 UPDATE: Cayman S, M3, B4 now added to the list.
Hi
I'm not sure if its relevant to WRX motors, but when I had the WBX motor I would get very noisy lifters if I ever started the motor and shut it down after only running for a short period of time.
For example, if I started the car up to move it out to wash it and then started it up to put it away, when I started it up after these 2 short starts I would get dreadful lifter noise.
I got into the habit of only starting the car if I intended to drive it, no more problems.
Steve
With lifter free, read the bottle! You should do it before an oil change. i.e, put it in the old oil and run if for a while then change your oil. Don't put it in new oil. Lifter free is basically oil with solvent in it. Its best not to have it in there for too long. 🙂 just something I learnt from some oldies in the game.
I got a bit of lifter noise in our EJ22 and with a new oil change using a semi synthetic 10-50 oil as recommended, it stopped after 100km drive and is fine now.
colonel mustard wrote:With lifter free, read the bottle! You should do it before an oil change. i.e, put it in the old oil and run if for a while then change your oil. Don't put it in new oil. Lifter free is basically oil with solvent in it. Its best not to have it in there for too long. 🙂 just something I learnt from some oldies in the game.
NO NO NO NO!!! don't waste it!
http://www.nulon.com.au/products.php?productName=Lifter-Free_and_Tune-Up
Only if ur doing a Nulon Oil Flush! then u get rid of it with the old oil. Leave it in there till the next oil change (what ever your normal servicing inciments are, being every 6 months or 5000-10'000km's)
If you pour a good drop of oil in it too, the mid to expensive brands of oil come with detergents in them as well. Which of course, doesn't hurt! Some cars, like the later model commodores can't run without them (due to fine oil galleries and sleeves prone to the possibility of getting clogged with sludge).
Cheapest oil with detergent in it (which they don't gloat about but ask any person with half a mind at ur local auto supplier), will be the GulfWestern HI-Tech from memory. I dunno how much they have changed prices since the last few months i haven't worked at autobarn.
But have a read of this anyways, some good info about sticky lifters.
http://www.nulon.com.au/products.php?productName=Lifter-Free_and_Tune-Up
Depending on how much you love your car and are willing to spend on additives, Lucas oil stabiliser is awesome and helps keep the lube everywhere in your motor, including your lifters. I wouldn't go that far unless you really gave the motor a hard time, or if it was really aged. From the instant i turned the key i had a huge increase in smooth running and power delivery, OH and quieter lifters + it apparently assists in reducing the rate of oil breakdown due to hard work too.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
Also depends on how old your engine is/service history. i had a 89 laser which was treated very poorly before i got it, and i put lifter free in it.... bad idea. Sounded alot worse a few hours later. I would personally always add lifter free (like 200ml) into old oil, take it for a thrash and get it hot, and drop it whilst its hot. thats just me. 🙂
in that case though you would buy nulon oil flush. Idle it for 5 to 10 mins then empty the sump. That stuffs toxic!
http://www.nulon.com.au/products.php?productName=Engine_Oil_Flush(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
mmm , Ok you dont see this a lot with those heads. Try an up grade to 2.5 ltr 🙂
I have a 2.5 ltr long block c/w turbo pistions, single bolt heads ( fit your cams to these heads or run the cams that are fitted ) all your components from your current motor will fit directly on this set up $1500.00. A 2.5 ltr block & crank is worth $2600.00 new now days + the heads , oil pump water pump ect ect .
I am selling the above due to I have up graded to a custom built 2.5 ltr AKA ( STI 257 ) runing Jun / cosworth 264 inlet & outlet cams forged pistions Eagle rods
I will also have a VF22 STI turbo ( rear housing has just been coated ) for sale as I need a larger turbo for my new motor.
give me a buzz any time after 5pm perth time if you like , seagull
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
Seagull, the 2.5 does sound nice at $1500 but then I also have to change my computer and get a full tune again $$$$$$$$ 🙁
1971 Type 3 Fasty - EJ20T
I love 242HP sleepers. 🤪
How many sets of lights does it take a $229k Carrera S to learn? 😂 UPDATE: Cayman S, M3, B4 now added to the list.
So use the heads off it ( I have not re fitted them ) & fit your cams , the VF22 and all you require is a part tune , not a full tune
Then again you be around 280hp and may require new under wear !
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
