heres a quick guide on how to replace the key barrel and electrical switch in 68 on bugs/ghias/type3s and truth be known baywindows are probably similiar to.
i've noticed owning a few bugs over the years and working at the garage a while back that its common with VWs to turn to the key to start and have enough time for a smoke before they start cranking over.
so i've had to go through this exercise a few times now to various bugs over the years as its a regular occurance for both the barrel and the switch to wear out and start causing all sorts of fun and games.
the 68 onwards ignition switch and barrel layout are all fairly similar,
the only real differences aside from steering locks which started in 72 (in Australia anyway) are more cosmetic than anything else.
im changing the lock barrel and ignition switch in my 74 but i have a few earlier model columns on hand so ill point out the other differences as i go.
i broke my indicator switch a few months ago and my accessories position was playing up causing my headunit to stay in standby and flatten the battery
so it just was easier to swap the whole switch housing from my 73 convertible till i got some new parts which is why it doesnt look right for a 74
b4 people start thinking WTF, vws dont normally have accesories position,your right they dont, i just did a little black magic trick so mine now does.
anyway, obviously first step is rip off the steering wheel, its a 24mm nut on taper spline cars (mid74 on) and 27mm on big spline cars (pre mid74).
if you have one of the 4 spoke steering wheels the horn pad is removed by grabbing the top and pulling towards you
then same thing at the base of the bottom 2 spokes
on 71 and earlier you will have to trace the wires for the indicator and ignition switch and unplug them inside the hood as they are hardwired but 72 on cars just have 3 plugs on the steering column for the wiper/indicators/ignition like mine which can be unplugged
also 72on cars will have 2 rubber hoses going to the washer switch which will need disconnecting if they still exist
i removed all that on mine and fitted an electric pump and micro switch which is the green/purple wires
on the underside of the housing is a hole with a 6mm allen key bolt in it
this clamps the housing to the column
once its out the whole housing can be slid off column
but if the cars equiped with a steering lock you will need to turn the key to on to disengage the tounge first before it will slide off
and heres where the differences in models start to show
the 74 on cars have a plastic casing shell and an alloy internal housing which contains the shaft bearing and barrel and switch
back at the other end theres a metal wedge which is removed and that exposes a small hole in the alloy
through this hole is a leaf spring which holds in the barrel
it takes a tiny screwdriver or nail, rivet stem etc to push in this hole which releases the leaf spring and the barrel can pulled out
it comes out alot easier if the key is in and turned a bit
my shitty camera doesnt pick it up well but with the original german barrels the key code is stamped onto them like shown in the pic
a good lock smith can make a new key from scratch with this code
ok so from there its just a matter of putting it back together with the new barrel and switch in the reverse order
put the barrel in first so if its hard to put in the final few MM you can see if the bottom slot is lined up
now with 68-73 cars the housing is metal and is one piece with the shaft bearing housing
so to remove the barrel and switch from these there are 2 screws that hold a small cover plate on
once these are out and the cover plate is off the barrel and switch come out as one
if it has a steering lock you will either need to hold the tongue in or just put the key in and turn it to the on position and slide it out
so here they are out and u can see by the arrow the small grub screw that holds the electrical switch in place
once this screw is out the switch can just be pulled out
here u can see the hole that the leaf spring is in
same deal as b4 just push on it with a small screw driver or similar and pull the barrel out
and thats it
reassemble with the new parts and your're good to go for another 35 years
I have the symtoms of lag time on starting so will need to do this shortly, good timing and thank you Joel for simplifying the process! not a mystery anymore
Very good Joel. Bays are very similar as I had to do it about 10 years ago. Cant remember all the details now very well tho. So can you pull a Bay apart photograph it all and provide instructions :-)
something i should have added is that fitting a relay (commonly known in vw world as hard start relay) is the best way to maximise the life of the new components and also makes hot starting alot better
annosL wrote:I have the symtoms of lag time on starting so will need to do this shortly, good timing and thank you Joel for simplifying the process! not a mystery anymore
Over the years, the contacts in the key switch get burnt and pitted and cause problems...
My 68 key switch is one piece... with three wires soldered to the back of it...
I have a "hot start relay" next to My starter motor and have had NO problems since fitting the relay...
so if your switch contacts are't burnt/pitted too badly a "hot start relay" will keep it going for many years...
cheers
LEE
'
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
68AutoBugBeetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --
I just read a few days ago, to take the barrel out of a 68 beetle
You need to drill a hole 1/8 of an inch in from the edge in line with the key when its turned off... ???
I still haven't tried to take mine off... so I don't know...???
Maybe it was a German made 67 beetle???
LEE
I'll have to try and find the article..
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
I need to do this - or, put a hard start relay in- on my '74 Westy. A pictorial on hard start relay would be great.
New here and I haven't figured out how to post pics yet .
I did actually do up a diagram for anther memer somewhere
It's for a bug but if you have a basic understanding of how relays work it should be pretty easy to suss out
I have removed all the bolts but cannot get the housing off because this bearing is in the way. I believe I am supposed to pull it off. Any body know how to do this without a puller? What would be the best way to put it back on - it looks kind of fragile.
I have changed both my '74 Lbug and '70 1500 beetle barrel's, and didnt need to remove the top housing on either one.
Saved a bit of time and hassle.
I also changed the ignition switch on the Lbug and had to grind some plastic off the new switch to make it fit. Still going ok.
