Well I've tried everything I've read.... and the result is.....
Two solid inch thick steel breaker bars bent.... a useless rattle gun....... and more grey hair.....
Now....
CAN SOMEBODY PLEASE TELL ME A FRIGGIN TRICK TO REMOVING THE FLYWHEEL GLAND NUT!!!!!!!
This little puppy just don't wanna play the game.....
Thanks in advance.... postie....
hmmm i had a jig made up so the motor is firmly on the ground via the case/box bolts, then bolt in the special tooth thing that holds it tight then a special tool about a 10' pipe swinging off a breaker bar and then it always came apart for me..
good luck a prick of a thing i know
fractal geometry; the inner most limits of mind altering abuse
Fantasy
http://seventhchronicle.com
Z = Z2 + C1/r = 1/0 = infinity
Barrels
www.barrelman.com.au
VW Workshop - aircooledgarage.com.au
allcooled.com.au
10 foot???? I'm working with 5 feet of pipe and all its doing is bending tools.... GOOD TOOLS TOO MIND YOU!!!! Not supercheap specials.....
Must be tight. I broke the end off a gland nut once when tightening it up. I usually use a long length of angle iron bolted to the flywheel, then a 2m length of pipe on the breaker bar.
From your ole' mate Jeff
sidchrome tools is all i have.. break em go back n swap for a newy.. sweet
good luck with it
fractal geometry; the inner most limits of mind altering abuse
Fantasy
http://seventhchronicle.com
Z = Z2 + C1/r = 1/0 = infinity
Barrels
www.barrelman.com.au
VW Workshop - aircooledgarage.com.au
allcooled.com.au
Bolted 50x50x2.0 steel RHS to the flywheel. Engine secure on the floor using the same.
Steel section is 5' long. Same RHS used for lengthening the breaker bar...... sucker still won't budge..... I know its meant to be like 250 odd torque.... but this is rediculous.
Mind you, Andy Fischer built this motor back in 1981..... good chance he had some special method of ensuring it didnt wriggle loose mid-race.....
fk that must be tight
this is all ive ever used with a 6ft tube over the breaker bar and its never failed me, even on an engine i found sitting in a paddock for 8 years
Can guarantee I'm supplying more torque than that setup...... must just be farking tight.....
maybe he grabbed the loc-tite instead of anti-seaze 😂
I'm thinkin an entire friggin bottle the stuff!!!
Give the face of the nut some sharp firm hits around the face to try and break the friction freeze , then try not to use an extension between the breaker bar and socket .
Are you using 3/4 gear or half inch as if it's half inch your dreaming and will just break even good gear
Don't let body work get in the way of real suspension travel
Sharp taps aplenty.....
No extension. 3/4" drive socket to 3/4" breaker.
yeah i had the same prob me and a mate on the end of a pipe and still nothing
so i took it to the tractor shop near by and he had a rattle gun the size of a large jack hammer
it took about 2 secs to crack and a day of trying at home 🙄
Damn I didnt even think of that. Will whip across the road and get them to have a go at it..... advantages of living in a rural area....
Exactly what I was going to say. Borrow an inch drive rattler from somewhere. It'll have it out in a second.
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
If your tools fail follow rule number 1
Rule number 1: If all else fails, use a bigger hammer.......
Use some WD 40 ver the space of 1 or 2 days.. then 1" rattle gun (air).. i had to turn my compressor up to run in the red, to get the PSI needed.
If the rattle gun doesn't move it warm the gland nut carefully(do not heat the case) with the oxy to break the loctite.
