Under the fuel tank. Make sure you wire it so it auto cuts if the engine stops, also make sure you check you entire fuel system, lines fitings etc while you at it.
I have no sympathy for my car, only the wallet that pays for it!
Go hard or go home!!!!
eraser wrote:Quick question.. but how does this soild state pump work?? Solid state means it has no moving parts right? so how the hell does it work :P
Not sure but my friend put one in his Kombi and all is good. This might be a silly ? but do you block the old pump off or take it out or anything?
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Is there a particular spot i should or should not put it?
Cheers.
You can place it anywhere... front or back...
I placed Mine under the fuel tank on the front wall
I have a switch under the dash that I can turn it off with..
its hooked thru the ignition, so the key has to be on for power to the switch and then to the pump..
they are a good pump and I have used the same style for over a decade with no problems.
The pump needs to be mounted under the tank and should also be mounted at 45deg...............so that the fuel enters from the bottom and exits out the top....hope that makes sense !
So i should get an auto electrician to hook it up through the ignition then i guess along with the horn. I think i get what you mean with the 45deg too Craig.
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There is an of the shelf relay that is used for LPG setups. It also primes the system when you switch on the ignition. Ie it runs the pumpf ro about 3 secs.
I have no sympathy for my car, only the wallet that pays for it!
Go hard or go home!!!!
68AutoBugBeetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --
eraser wrote:Quick question.. but how does this soild state pump work?? Solid state means it has no moving parts right? so how the hell does it work :P
I don't know either....
All the electric fuel pumps I've seen tick when they are pumping....
its strange that an old looking design, metal pump should be labelled as solid state...
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
Guessing....
Your mechanical pump is using a push rod to move a diaphram that pumps the fuel.
These ones use magnets that are establshed by passing a current though a coil of wires.
By changing the poles your able to make a metallised diaphram bounce back and forth ( just like the push rod does on the old style pump but now you use the magic of a magnet).
Thats why these things are metal!
They say no moving parts burt really there is no rotating parts. the diaphragm is still pumping.
Most electric fuel pumps are not in the engine bay, probably because they don't like the heat or they are push pumps.
I'd fit it under the tank and definitely fit a cut off system linked to the generator output.
If you link it to the generator output, it will cut the fuel if the engine stops and the ignition stays on.
That also means that the pump won't pump until the engine is cranking over when starting.
That should not be a problem. To need to crank the engine a bit before a start is better than an instant start, as it gets the oil pressure up a bit before the engine starts.
That's why engines that start instantly usually clatter until the oil pressure gets up.
Some years ago I needed an electric pump to get me back to the city when the mechanical pump on my Hillman Hunter failed. It was clearly marked as not to be fitted anywhere near the battery. Why? I don't know. Maybe sparks?
What you probably need is a low pressure Facet pump.
As to the old pump, take the push rod out, re-fit it and blank off the fuel holes.
