engine queries

djnee Officially Full-On Dubber

341 posts · joined Mar 2009 · 30 Aug 2009, 1:53 pm

#732450

Can anyone help with a few little queries i have with stuff inside the engine bay!

Firstly, the flap (A) on the air filter is sort of hooked over so it's open all the time...is that ok? And any idea why it might have been adjusted to be like this?

Secondly, there's this weird thing (B) with what looks like fuse wire wrapped around it (fuse wire is broken). On one end is a male spade connector, not connected to anything, and the other end connects to the side of the carb.
Am i ok to remove this? Any idea what it does or is meant to do? If i remove it should i then connect the thing on the side of the carb to something else instead?

(here is a bigger picture of the fuse wire "thing"!)

Third question...the pipe (C) from the air filter to the oil filler area...i think i read somewhere that people disconnect it? Have i read right or not? Is there any advantage of doing this?

Also i have traced my long standing oil leak to the pushrod tubes. Are the tubes and seals cheap enough?? And how hard is it to do? If anyone can point me to a tutorial on the net or something that would be great.

Thanks a lot guys 🙂

It May Never End

Joel Now containing 100\% E-Wang

9,368 posts · joined Feb 2006 · 30 Aug 2009, 3:52 pm

#732457

its only backyard "mechanics" with no idea what there doing who remove the case breather hose
if it wasnt needed the factory wouldnt have put it there

without it you will get a nice oilly residue thro the engine bay and probably a caramel milkshake build up under the oil cap as well

the flap in the air cleaner is for preheat, the early ones like that just had a wieght on them so at idle with low engine suction it fell shut so the engine could suck up warmer air of the exhaust though the hose which is missing

and the other think looks like a ballast resistor, i would say who ever converted it to 12 volt has left the 6 volt choke on there and just used a coil resistor to drop the voltage down

although it looks to have a 12volt choke on it now which maybe why its not connected to anything anymore

djnee Officially Full-On Dubber

341 posts · joined Mar 2009 · 30 Aug 2009, 4:00 pm

#732458

Joel wrote:although it looks to have a 12volt choke on it now which maybe why its not connected to anything anymore

OK, but the car is now 12v, so should it now be connected to something?
Is it a problem if it's not?

It May Never End

bushed Wolfsburg Elder

3,541 posts · joined Dec 2006 · 30 Aug 2009, 6:50 pm

#732487

Ans nr 3; u can get adjustable p rod covers and not pull out engine as if u would for std ones.
remove bottom flat airflow plate (4 screws)
undo tappet cvr (clip) and tappets (2 nuts)remove tappets pull out 4 on ea side push rods
then u can snip or carefully grind thru existing rod cvrs AND CLEAN UP
repl with new rubbers and adjust new cvrs in
erpl rods
repl tappets
repl nuts
repl tappet cvr
repl clip (of course)

want any vw bits old but like me, Made in Germany!!!

Joel Now containing 100\% E-Wang

9,368 posts · joined Feb 2006 · 30 Aug 2009, 7:12 pm

#732495

its abit hard to trace the wires from the pics
but it shouldnt actually be there no but whats been done when it was converted to 12v is anyones guess without looking at it

the main concern is that if it is still live then touching anything metal would end up dead shorting and if its unfused which is most likely then it would just short till the wiring melted away

have you got a multimeter or test lamp?

if your not real au-fait with auto electrics it may pay to have a sparky look at it

djnee Officially Full-On Dubber

341 posts · joined Mar 2009 · 30 Aug 2009, 9:33 pm

#732550

Hi Joel!

It's not connected to anything....firstly the fuse wire stuff has a break in it, secondly one end is connected with a spade connector to the carb (on the right hand side) and the other end just has a male spade which isn't connected to anything.

I just wondered if it affected the running of the engine much without it as it was obviously connected at some point?

The engine runs fine, but say if i'm doing the 5 minute school run in the mornings...if i don't keep blipping the pedal when idling it wants to cut out until it's warmed up properly, but from memory most beetles do this anyway don't they?

It May Never End

Joel Now containing 100\% E-Wang

9,368 posts · joined Feb 2006 · 31 Aug 2009, 4:29 pm

#732661

if its not connected to anything i'd just remove it if it bothers you or leave it if not

if the chokes working youll see the arm on the left of the carb shut it when u pull on the throttle lever when the cars cold