Thanks for the suggestion skubz,
The Chassis number is 196849869 and the RTA say it was manufactured in January of 1963. I've had a look at a chassis number list but couldn't find it.
I don't know what has been done to this car in the years leading up to my purchase of it, so it could very well have a 64 deck lid on it.
It also has the 1300 badge work, but according to redbook it should have a 1200 stock. Would that be right?
I spent today cleaning the interior and scraping away at all the hessian left stuck to the glue. I managed to get the passenger door looking awesome thanks to a heap of kerosene.
I have found a new type of corrosion coming up on the drivers side of the pan, in front of the battery area. It looks like the white powder that grows on car batteries, but it has developed in spots under paintwork, lifting the paint in sections. Under the powder the metal looks fine, but it shouldn't be doing that.
Any ideas?
Such an improvement. There is some surface rust on the inside of the door which I found hiding under a layer of dirt. I'll hit it with some rust converter in the next few days.
Today I am picking up some KBS rust proofin paint to do the pan. It's like POR15, but apparently damn near impenetrable to anything short of an angle grinder when set. I've read good things about it on other forums about car restoration, so I thought I'd give it a go.
Has anyone seen that corrosion before? Could it be something with the battery not earthing properly? Like I said, I've only ever seen it on poor quality electrical equipment before.
it is an acid reaction with the metal. Needs to be cleaned up and neutralised. Caused by bad paint preparation (surface contamination) Clean throughly, allow to dry, then used a good zinc rich primer to coat.
Customer service is not dead in Australia.
Always after HAZET & MATRA & VW factory tools
t_tuffnut wrote:I first spotted a puddle under the rear drivers side wheel.
Pulled off the front of the drum and found the leak at the spot indicated.
make sure you check the gear box oil level as that is where it is leaking from.
😂🤪😂🤪😂
car forums. where a lot of peoples good intentions end up taking a good old car off the road forever never ever to see the road again. 🥲
That's great advice. Thanks.
I'll wire brush the pan back to metal and then use the KBS stuff I bought today, probably on the weekend. It has a three step approach, first removing all impurities, then priming with a rust busting agent before the paint goes on.
Yeah, I'll also check the oil level, as roughly half a litre has dripped out over the last 2 months. I replaced the seals 2 weeks ago, but it's leaking again. It seems to start every time the car is jacked up or moved on a truck. The old seals didn't seem that bad, and I had a hard time trying to get the plastic spacer bit into the bolt on bit inside the drum (Round plastic collar with a spring around the inner lip - don't know the actual name). A mechanic round the corner ended up "persuading" it in with a mallet.
Worked on the pan today with paint stripper and wire brushes. Got it fairly decent and washed it all out with Aquaklean. Tomorrow I'll bust off the last of the paint and get the rust blaster on.
I know it's not the best thing to do, as a pan off sand blast would have been more effective, but it will have to do for now. As you can see in the pics, the rust was getting right into the metal. The dark green paint was slapped on by a previous owner without proper preparation of the pan. Originally I thought it might have had a pan swap, as it was an original colour, but it turns out it was a touch up job.
My new plan is to get it road worthy as soon as possible. When roadworthy, it can be driven to work shops to get stuff done. A proper respray will have to wait. No point in it waiting in the garage till then!
Apparently the rust blaster works best when there is rust present, as the porous surface helps it penetrate better. That's my excuse for the remaining rust anyway.
I found a hole in one of my heater tubes. Any idea what that is about? Someone cut it and screwed a panel over it at some point. When I got it it was wrapped in tape. I thought the tube was knackered until I unwrapped it and found it to be fine.
My brother 64 has the same cut out, dunno where itgoes but it was also covered. Will be interesting to find out what its for.
After the rust removal, I gave it 2.5hrs of rust blasting chemical conversion and painted it this afternoon. It only has one coat on at the moment, but it looks pretty smick already.
For an amateur. With a paintbrush. As long as it keeps the rust at bay, I can live with it.
Oh, and I checked the rust blasting chemical, it is full of zinc and leaves a zinc coating on the metal. Hopefully that will stop that corrosion coming back.
What paint did you use?
It is a prep system called KBS. If you google it, it is all on their website. The kit cost $90 from a local reseller and is sold as a chassis kit. It was developed by the POR 15 creators, but developed in Australia. I also used it on the bumper support arms and heater vent covers. It is meant to dry smooth, so it should look a little better with another coat. As it is now, most of the brush strokes have evened out.
Can someone post a pic of how the horn assembly goes together? I jut got a horn ring off ebay, and all I have on my steering wheel is a brown cut off wire sticking out of the steering column. Is there another kit I need or will a few short bolts do?
I've also noticed that my engine has a pict 30 carby on it. According to the manual, they only came out on 70s models. Could it have just replaced the original one?
The hole in the heater tube is for a pipe to go under the rear seat, provides heat for the rear passengers. My 67 still has the pipe connected.
That's a great idea. What kind of pipe was it? Steel/plastic? Might look into getting a similar thing and putting it back it.
I was inspired by Colonel Mustard's post and his work on his drums, so I thought i'd have a crack at mine as well.
Wire brushed back the rust. Treated with rust blast and painted with KBS. A few bubbles formed here and there, but a bit of sandpaper ought to sort them out.
I also got the old rear brake lines out. The hoses were so blocked, nothing could get through.
I've been a little busy lately, so I haven't been working on it that much. But school holidays are around the corner, so I should have a month to focus on the bug. Can't wait! Who says teachers don't need their holidays?
here's a couple of pic's of the rear heating,
enjoy...
Forgot to add, it comes out of the tube and runs to the "T" piece at the top of the tunnel and then drops down to each (thing on the floor) outlet.
Thanks Frosty. I'll have to mock up some replacement parts for mine.
Photos help a lot.
t_tuffnut wrote:Thanks for the suggestion skubz,
The Chassis number is 196 849 869 and the RTA say it was manufactured in January of 1963.
Hi
Nice car, the RTA have no idea, that is a 1966 chassis number.
Steve
The plot thickens!
Thanks Steve. When I was working on the rear drums on the weekend, I noticed they were slightly different, but both stamped with a 66 inside. I put it down to the vehicle being, as someone on the forum put it, a big boy's meccano set.
Hi
No worries, check the date on the speedo as well, unless changed they are a good indication. Looks like PO was into pinstripes.
Steve
Yeah, they were pretty terrible in my opinion. They were a cheap tape that came off with a glass scraper.
Hi
It looks like the car has been converted to 12 volt as well and the generator has been fitted 90 degrees out, the earth screw should be at the top and the wire connectors should be pointing off towards the drivers side.
Steve
I wonder what else has been put in wrong. I'll post a pic of the engine bay later this evening. Haynes manuals are good, but I'm finding that they don't stack up to the experience on this forum.
Out of interest, is there any potential damage that could have been caused by mouting it in this way?
Thanks for the heads up Steve.
Here is a pic of the engine, using my patented golf club boot lid prop.
I know a piece of fuel line is missing, I'm replacing it and moving the filter to under the tank, so that needs to be put back.
Other than that, anything else somewhere it shouldn't be?
The engines in the back!!!!!! WTF?????...................😁
Customer service is not dead in Australia.
Always after HAZET & MATRA & VW factory tools
well aside from both the distributor and generator being install 90degrees out of alignment all looks to be stock 1300
