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Ollie Yeah Buddy

840 posts · joined Oct 2009 ·

#747505
I've recently bought a 1970's Bug with an 1835cc Engine with Twin 40 Kadrons and I love it!

After a bit of research I've seem to come to the conclusion that 1835's aren't the pick of the crop. I'm not really fussed at this point in time (it's my first of many bugs to come, so any motor will do for me at the moment).

My question is, why are the 1835's not as accepted as the 1776's or the 1916's? I've herd they're not long lasting motors. Sorry if this is a repost, I just couldn't find much information on it all.

Also, if you're explaining why with technical jargon, could you do an "idiots guide to engines" style of answer? E.g. - The pistons are too small etc.?

Also, if I were wanting to increase the capacity to a 1916 or even 2000cc +, is it basically the price of a new engine all over again?

Cheers and big ears,
Ollie
Follow the Photo Fun:
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=95238

- '70 1500 Beetle (The Clean One)
- '76 1300 Beetle (The In-between One)
- '69 1500 Beetle (The Mean One)

Bizarre Moderator The artist formerly known as blue74l

12,785 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#747507
When you bore the case the outside diameter for a 1776 is the same as a 1835

A 1776 take a cylinder size of 90.5 and a 1835 takes a cylinder size od 92

Now - if the are both the same size outside diameter the only difference is wall thickness of the actuat cylinder

What does this mean??

When you give the car a work out it gets hot
hot results in warping of the cylinders

because the rings are hard steel and stay round, the now oval / egg shape of the cylinder causes leakage on the compression stoke

ie - blow by

This reults in crancase pressure and less "compression" in the cylinder

1585 - good
1641 - sip in - not so good
1688 (slip in) - evem worse

1775 - first machine stage - good
1835 - slip in - not so good

1916 - next machine stage - good
Futue te ipsum!!!

Joel Now containing 100\% E-Wang

9,368 posts · joined Feb 2006 ·

#747510
as barry said there just 1776 thinned down to fit bigger pistons

i had one years ago when i didnt know any better and it was a heap of shit also
i think it ate more oil than fuel
they get shocking blow by and run hot

but untill yours shows signs of doing that just enjoy it 👍
as crap as mine was it still went hard

Bizarre Moderator The artist formerly known as blue74l

12,785 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#747512
When problems happen - just throw a set of 1776 P&C's in there and all will be well

Nothing to worry about till later

Yours isnt a daily driver so no need to worry

Yes - they do make good power 👍
Futue te ipsum!!!

matberry Moderator Go hard or go home

8,114 posts · joined Mar 2006 ·

#747527
Yep, as above. Although I've had great results with 87mm 1641 engines.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE

Bizarre Moderator The artist formerly known as blue74l

12,785 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#747533
Then you will be able to give first hand results because all my crap is here say 😀
Futue te ipsum!!!

lohoon Wolfsburg Wizard

466 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·

#747539
I have a 1835 in my oval and i have had the motor for some 15 years.It hasn't always been my daily, but for the last 4 years i have driven this car evey day.I have driven it to Valla, VW Nats in Sydney (3 times) and many trips to Newcastle (about 300 ks return). I run a doghouse cooler,a external oil filter and twin weber carbs.She has a counterweighted crank, lightened flywheel ratio rockers and has seen 6000rpm a few times.It has never let me down.It does tend to mist oil out of the breather when driven hard but apart from that shes a beauty.
While i wouldn't like to drive it across the Nullabour in 40 degree heat she seems fine.Although i do take it easer when i feel the air blowing (though a open window) is hot. I run decklid standoff/ hoodjack type brackets in summer and have a row of vents on my engine lid.

Ollie Yeah Buddy

840 posts · joined Oct 2009 ·

#747550
Thanks for all the info guys, hopefully it'll treat me for a while by not dying 😀

Just the other question - If i wanted to upgrade to a 1916, is it basically the same as going from a 1600 to a 1916 in terms of pricing?

Cheers and Big ears,
ollie
Follow the Photo Fun:
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=95238

- '70 1500 Beetle (The Clean One)
- '76 1300 Beetle (The In-between One)
- '69 1500 Beetle (The Mean One)

Bizarre Moderator The artist formerly known as blue74l

12,785 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#747604
yes

You case is alread bore for 1775 / 1835

You need to make a bigger hole to take the 1916 cylinders

You will also need to open the heads up as well
Futue te ipsum!!!

VWCOOL 23 Windows of Awesome

5,158 posts · joined Jun 2003 ·

#747612
OMClarke wrote:Thanks for all the info guys, hopefully it'll treat me for a while by not dying 😀

Just the other question - If i wanted to upgrade to a 1916, is it basically the same as going from a 1600 to a 1916 in terms of pricing?

Cheers and Big ears,
ollie
Yes. Machining and assembly costs will be the same so you may be better off starting all over again with a standard 1600... and keep or sell your 1835
Pay your debts, CxxT