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Should i disconnect the exhaust heater exchange past manifold?

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jjwebb123 Wolfsburg Wizard

617 posts · joined Aug 2009 ·

#756008
hi guys.
I live in far north QLD and its pretty hot most of the year,and i bought a new exhaust for my beetle,just waiting on j-pipes to finish off.We installed it today.

Now do i have to connect the heater exchange pipe that runs past the intake manifold to my exhaust.? Becuase i dont think there is much need for it up here.Also do you know of anyways that you can disconnect it other than cutting it off with a angle grinder.lol.





its either keep it for the original looks and put up with the heat.?Or bye bye to looks and have a cooler engine.?

Any ideas will be of help.
thanks
"A car for the people, an affordable Volkswagen, would bring great joy to the masses and the problems of building such a car must be faced with courage."
Adolf Hitler At opening of 1934 Berlin Auto Show

68AutoBug Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --

11,654 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#756014
HI
I would keep them...
keeps the inlet manifold hot...


unless You Never have cold weather...

I found Mine was blocked when I drove over a mountain
where the temperature was very cold..
Engine stopped when carby froze up...

very nice looking exhaust... where the heater is connected...

LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---

Bizarre Moderator The artist formerly known as blue74l

12,789 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#756016
It also depends if they are drilled or not.

If it is not drilled out then there is not (as much) much point in connecting it

If it is drilled out then you need to otherwise you have an exhaust leak

Manifold sweating can occur in humid areas as well.
So it is better that you do connect it

That said - i didnt have mine connected in Sydney for 5 year and was fine
Well - it was bolted but not drilled out.

I also ran a Progressive which didnt have any heater pipes and that was fine as well
Futue te ipsum!!!

jjwebb123 Wolfsburg Wizard

617 posts · joined Aug 2009 ·

#756019
.they are not drilled.here is the rest of my system lee.lol 😎



"A car for the people, an affordable Volkswagen, would bring great joy to the masses and the problems of building such a car must be faced with courage."
Adolf Hitler At opening of 1934 Berlin Auto Show

vw54 Administrator Always Waiting 4 Friday

16,723 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#756029
if there not drill then leave it that way but use some 6mm bolts to bring them together
so it will support the inlet mainfold better and have less vibration for the cyclinder heads mainfold bolts n nuts
I read it on FACEBOOK so it must be true


http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=91278&page=1#pid848630


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http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=4832&page=1#pid452603


http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=60650&page=1#pid574409

Uber Kafer Wolfsburg Wizard

414 posts · joined Nov 2009 ·

#758195
Spot the obvious mistake everybody...... Who else noticed that there are no sealing shrouds around the yellow spark plug connectors on the lovely blue and yellow spark plug leads???
JJweb123, excuse me if you are already onto this issue but it is critical that every such opening in the air cooling shroud is sealed, by what ever means possible. You will need to obtain a set of leads made specifically for the VW type 1 air cooled angine and they come with the shrouds. I really dont think its possible to retro-fit the shrouds to your sort of leads as the shrouds dont have much stretch and I expect that the yellow connectors are permanently bonded onto the blue cable.

As for the inlet manifold pre-heat runner, blocking it off in warmer climates was recognised as giving several horsepowers gain way back in the sixties, but at the expense of drive-ability when its cold.

So if you want to block it off, put a coin, 20cent I think, on top of the gasket which should be between the exhaust system flange and the inlet manifold pre-heat runner flange. Its only needed to block at one end to stop the flow, as heat wont be conducted efficiently without gas flow. (later correction - you will need to block both ends to get a proper seal)

However, If the pre-heat runner has corroded through from the inside, a problem which is quite typical, you can block both ends.