Hi Guys.
My car engine is in pretty good condition,but after about 30min of driving and the engine gets hot it starts to miss and loose power and eventually stop.
We think it might be the coil getting hot, is this a possibility? its not the generator,that has been tested.lol
Thanks
"A car for the people, an affordable Volkswagen, would bring great joy to the masses and the problems of building such a car must be faced with courage."
Adolf Hitler At opening of 1934 Berlin Auto Show
bump..
"A car for the people, an affordable Volkswagen, would bring great joy to the masses and the problems of building such a car must be faced with courage."
Adolf Hitler At opening of 1934 Berlin Auto Show
pretty good chance its the coil, if it dies completley
got another one off something else u can try?
another less likely culprit is vapour lock
I've come across bugs before where the clip that holds the metal fuel line coming into the engine bay is gone and the pipe sits ontop of the manifold which gets the fuel pretty hot, doesnt normally cause vapour lock though but theres always a first
No i dont really have another one,but im in the process of ordering electronic ignition system which involves coil ,leads and dizzy.
So a new will be in place.
"A car for the people, an affordable Volkswagen, would bring great joy to the masses and the problems of building such a car must be faced with courage."
Adolf Hitler At opening of 1934 Berlin Auto Show
An even bigger choice would be the condenser,these usually break down when hot misfiring and then cuts out,let it cool down and will restart for a short period.Replace the points also as they will be burnt blue.
when getting a new electronic dizzy and coil ,do u have to change the reg?
"A car for the people, an affordable Volkswagen, would bring great joy to the masses and the problems of building such a car must be faced with courage."
Adolf Hitler At opening of 1934 Berlin Auto Show
No!
well thats good,
.
cheers
"A car for the people, an affordable Volkswagen, would bring great joy to the masses and the problems of building such a car must be faced with courage."
Adolf Hitler At opening of 1934 Berlin Auto Show
Check all the engine tin ware sealing rubbers are there and installed properly. your engine bay will overheat otherwise and cause fuel vapour blocks
Keeping it real !
SInce you're contemplating on a new electronic ignition, it's best to follow the recommended steps by the manufacturer to ensure you will not over power the electronic ignition system. Measure the voltage on the + side of the coil with the ignition switch on. Then disconnect wires to the ignition coil and check it's impedance. Divide the volts from the + side of the coil with the coil impedance, and that will give you the amperage of your current ignition system. The idea is to keep it lower than 4 amps. If you get a higher figure, you'll need a ballast resistor. This will prevent your new electronic ignition from burning out, and to prevent the coil from overheating. Check the electronic ignition install preparation for details. Surprisingly not many people does this check. Hope this helps.
sixace wrote:The idea is to keep it lower than 4 amps. If you get a higher figure, you'll need a ballast resistor.
4ohms
😉Joel wrote:sixace wrote:The idea is to keep it lower than 4 amps. If you get a higher figure, you'll need a ballast resistor.
4ohms
😉
This is quoted from pertronix troubleshooting guide:
To determine if your systems coil is compatible with the Ignitor, some measurements should be taken prior to installation of the Ignitor. Caution… While performing this test, never leave the ignition switch on for more than 30 seconds at a time. Set your voltmeter to a 15 or 20-volt scale. Attach an 18 or 20 AWG jumper wire from the negative coil terminal to an engine ground. Attach positive (red) lead of your voltmeter to the positive side of the coil, and the negative (black) lead to an engine ground. Turn the ignition switch to the run position. Now read the voltage at the positive coil terminal. Turn the ignition switch off. If the voltage measured is approximately 12 volts, no resistance wire is present. A typical resistance wire will provide 9 - 6 volts. The next step is to determine the resistance in the primary ignition. Label the wires attached to the coil terminals and note their appropriate location. Make sure that the ignition switch is off and disconnect all wires from the coil. Adjust your meter to the lowest ohm scale. If you are using an analog style meter make sure to zero the needle. Measure from the negative terminal to the positive terminal. Write your measurement down. Now the maximum system amperage can be determined, divide your voltage measurement by your coil resistance measurement. This will give you the system current or amperage. Four and six cylinder engines should not exceed 4 amps. Eight cylinder engines should not exceed 8 amps. If the total amperage in your system is higher than the amount recommended for your application, you should install a ballast resistor.
Example:
Voltage 12
Resistance 1.5
12 / 1.5 = 8
Total amperage 8 (= too much amperage for the ignitor)
Pertronix Troubleshooting Tips
I've also seen similar instructions from other electronic ignition systems I've tried. Hope this helps.
they just trying to cover there arse from every angle
i've ran my ignitor with a variety of coils, as long as your not running a 9volt ballast res style coil it should be fine
"Making it work" had never been synonymous with "making it work right". Two totally different things. To ensure stability with any electronic circuit, it's capabilities and limitations had to be understood. Although it does provide margin for errors, heat is always the number one enemy of any electronic circuit. And the worse thing one can do is to provide more current than any circuit can safely handle. It will certainly work until it's built in fail safe features give up. These are the typical scenarios that provides 'gray areas' when it comes time to troubleshooting. Since it's assumed to be "good", it's never looked into, and the blame is put on other components and ending with the wrong diagnosis. This is why manufacturers ensure this is explained. It's best to teach new users the proper way, as recommended by manufacturers, so everyone can have a better understanding of what's being upgraded in the first place, and it's benefits. Manufacturers had already spent a lot of money and effort on R & D, who am i to doubt them? I personally would rather take their word over "myths" any day. Just my 2 cents.
Joel wrote:sixace wrote:The idea is to keep it lower than 4 amps. If you get a higher figure, you'll need a ballast resistor.
4ohms
😉
No, amps. :
🙂:
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
gets bloody hard whilst trying to keep it simple!
jjwebb123 wrote:Hi Guys.
My car engine is in pretty good condition, but after about 30min of driving and the engine gets hot it starts to miss and loose power and eventually stop.
We think it might be the coil getting hot,is this a possibility?
its not the generator,that has been tested.lol
Thanks
Hi,
The condensor can do this....
I have had heaps of them do this on an L300 I had...
Coils can short out.. etc.. and arc across the terminals if dirty..
but usually, they burn out...
I did have a set of points wear right down until it shorted out on the shaft of the distributor..
and burn out My High Energy electronic ignition.. ??
I used to adjust the points about every 500 kms..
they did wear down very fast..
the rubbing block was plastic... and always had grease on it..
LEE
PS: have new dizzy with ignitor to put into My beetle..
condensors used to be replaced every 6000 miles years ago..
I have checked all My coils.. GOOD INFO in this thread... Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
sixace wrote:SInce you're contemplating on a new electronic ignition, it's best to follow the recommended steps by the manufacturer to ensure you will not over power the electronic ignition system. Measure the voltage on the + side of the coil with the ignition switch on. Then disconnect wires to the ignition coil and check it's impedance. Divide the volts from the + side of the coil with the coil impedance, and that will give you the amperage of your current ignition system. The idea is to keep it lower than 4 amps. If you get a higher figure, you'll need a ballast resistor. This will prevent your new electronic ignition from burning out, and to prevent the coil from overheating. Check the electronic ignition install preparation for details. Surprisingly not many people does this check.
Hope this helps.
EXCELLENT ADVICE...
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
Talking about HOT coils....
recently, after ignition problems...
I started to feel how Hot My coil gets....
and YES they do get VERY HOT... I have TRIED A FEW.. lol
no wonder many people put them outside the engine bay...lol
I had never thought to see how hot they got before..
but then again, everything in the engine bay does get hot.. !!
NORMALLY...
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
