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Lightening Flywhell

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mczaf666 Casual Dubber

43 posts · joined Nov 2009 ·

#765990
G'day All,

Im about to spin the flywheel in our lathe to take some meat of it..

Has anyone out there got some drawings, specs etc to where abouts this should be done........

Once its fitted in the chuck I dont want to remove it to keep it balanced and the idea of weighing the swarf to know how much if taken off is not welcome....

It weighs 16.5 pounds now and want to take it down to about 12 pounds...

Im only getting this info from a few books etc so let me know if Im doing the wrong thing...

Thanks in advance

Hamish

Thinker Seriously Crusin Dubber

162 posts · joined Oct 2008 ·

#765994
i dont know where the material needs to come off but it is going to be round or flat so balance should not be a problem just make sure it is running true before starting and check it is running true before you finish it.

you can calculate the weight removed by volume of material removed.

i have the formula some where i am 99% sure that for steel it is volume of steel in millimeters multiplied by 0.0000068 will give you it weight in kg.

if you need it i can pull out all the formulas you need to calc the volume and weight.
1970 bug /1500 stock as a rock.
1976 standard bug ready to be modified 😁😁😁😁😁

mczaf666 Casual Dubber

43 posts · joined Nov 2009 ·

#766061
Thanks for the info Thinker.

I can check this formula here.

Thanks again

Hamish

Joel Now containing 100\% E-Wang

9,368 posts · joined Feb 2006 ·

#766072
what spec engine is this going on?

your gonna need a torquey engine unless you like driving a truck when it comes to hills

also the lighter you go the faster the car will slow down when u get off the noise pedal
my old 1835 had a 12lb'er and getting off the gas in it was like hitting the brakes

oh yeah most of mine was machined off the ring gear area

dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome

5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·

#766082
I always take the material from the outer perimeter near the ring gear.
I very rarely remove anything from the back,
except perhaps a very light skim (.005"?) to make things smooth and true.

I generally turn the outside diameter of the shoulder
to within 3mm of the clearnce holes on the back where the clutch bolts are,
and then a series of chamfers between 30, 45 and 60 degrees.

The material that the original steel flyheels are made from is very tough,
so use slow spindle rpms or else you will burn up the tip tools.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.

mczaf666 Casual Dubber

43 posts · joined Nov 2009 ·

#766089
Thanks dangerous

Much appreciated